My first pitbull, IB-5 five string bass.

[Tindrrel]

Hi Sam,
see how the neck goes then but now winter has just begun, not much chance of warmer weather. Where are you located SE Melbourne near Pest ?

Yeah, not waiting for summer. Might never come.

Apparently not far as we have some of the same local shops.

I know I can get some naughty oil from the gunshop in Clayton.

[Tindrrel]

I guess the question is how much should I sand back before I apply the oil. There are some spots where the DT has taken. Looks like in certain lines of the grain. Maybe I can leave those there as filler?

[wokkaboy]

Sam I'd give it a light steel wool and apply the TO to a small area and make sure it doesn't react. I'm 99.5% sure you will have no reaction with the DT

[Tindrrel]

First coat the morning after. Applied in a room heated to 20 degrees and left to hang. Dry to the touch after 3 hours. Kept a wet look. A couple of streaks, but that's my application keeping it thin and not overlapping.

[Tindrrel]

So I've applied about 8 coats of TO to the body and neck. It's dry to the touch in a few hours even without heating the room so I was able to get two coats in some days.

Has a nice glossy finish, but not smooth.


So, I was wondering what to do on the last coat. I've been doing the steel wool in between and even a wet and dry 1500 on one bumpy spot.

Reading about, people talk about all sorts of things like rubbing it with steel wool or "micro-mesh" (anyone know where to get that?).

On my LP I used auto cutting compound, as it was an auto acrylic top coat.

0000 steel wool seems to leave a very scratchy looking surface. I was hoping for a smooth matte if not gloss.

I'll probably apply a couple more coats of TO yet, then wait a couple of weeks before trying to smooth and polish it up.

I've also still got the Dingotone Wax. I expect to apply that to the body, unless that's a bad idea with TO?
Also, do you wax the back of the neck? (seems to me it would be better unwaxed, except the fretboard perhaps.)

[Tindrrel]

Been applying thin coats when I get a chance and leaving it a day to cure before dealing with runs. Getting less runs as I learn how to wipe the coat on thin. Probably done more coats than is strictly necessary because of rubbing them back in between each time to smooth it out.

[wokkaboy]

good stuff Sam so you must be almost finished clear coats and ready to polish after a long final curing period ?

[Tindrrel]

good stuff Sam so you must be almost finished clear coats and ready to polish after a long final curing period ?

When I can finally get a few coats in a row that i don't pick a lumpy run off. Then it'll be time to let it hang and cure while I prepare the electronics.

Wondering if there's any reason I shouldn't start installing the shielding after a couple of days curing.

[wokkaboy]

Sam should be able to start installing shielding after 2-3 days curing, just make sure the tru oil has hardened enough.

[Tindrrel]

good stuff Sam so you must be almost finished clear coats and ready to polish after a long final curing period ?

What should I polish the TO with?

I have a thimble of dingo wax still.

Oh, and what is a "long" curing? 2 weeks, 4 weeks, longer?