Astracaster First Build FS-1

[fender3x]

I didn't have much luck with the trigger thing for spray cans. I found I was better off with just a finger, and a glove on the finger. I used something much less elegant screwed into the pickup cavity to hold onto and move the guitar while spraying. I suspended from a tuning machine hole.

It looks like you have what you need. The only thing that I can think of is that you might want to have something to grip at the other end of the guitar. With luck you won't. But FWIW if you do....

I made this from found objects around my house be able to grip the headstock without messing up the paint...



Not a very clear picture... The wood is a piece of dowel about 20 cm long. there are two compression washers made of hard rubber that are the only part that touches the finish and only at the very edge of one tuning maching hole. You can't see the threads clearly but the silver in the center are threads from a hanger bolt:



The "nut" is made from a T-nut and an older wooden knob. You could use a wingnut or conventional hex nut if you wanted a smaller footprint for spraying.

Not elegant at all. Made of found objects around my house...but it worked pretty reasonably well.

[Trevor Davies]

I have not done much spraying, but I did find the spray can trigger quite easy to use and comfortable, especially when wearing gloves.

My 2 cents - thin coats are better than thick coats! Practice on scrap wood first.

Good luck.

[Drashkum]

I didn't have much luck with the trigger thing for spray cans. I found I was better off with just a finger, and a glove on the finger. I used something much less elegant screwed into the pickup cavity to hold onto and move the guitar while spraying. I suspended from a tuning machine hole.

It looks like you have what you need. The only thing that I can think of is that you might want to have something to grip at the other end of the guitar. With luck you won't. But FWIW if you do....
Not elegant at all. Made of found objects around my house...but it worked pretty reasonably well.

When i paint the body I thought I can hold the neck of the guitar and spray. The challenge comes only when I paint the headstock and the back of the neck for which I may have to hang the guitar much higher or use something like you have suggested. Will try to source something from scrap objects.

Should i fix that pickup cavity holder contraption in Bridge pickup cavity or the neck?. The wood is thicker at bridge cavity and very thin in neck pickup cavity

I have not done much spraying, but I did find the spray can trigger quite easy to use and comfortable, especially when wearing gloves.

My 2 cents - thin coats are better than thick coats! Practice on scrap wood first.

Good luck.

Thank you. I have already started to spray on scrap wood. The challenge come with the amount of spray I get on pressing and the spraying distance.

I had the clearcoat fog up a few times because I pressed too much which caused me to spray too much and also because I was too close to the wood couple of times. That's why I went and got a trigger handle so that i can atleast try to deliver a constant pressure so that i can spray evenly.

I am telling myself not to get too close and always do thin coats.

But how thin is a thin coat?



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[fender3x]

My issue with the trigger handle may be idiosyncratic. I realized when I saw TD's post that I am using a so called "artist" spray paint that comes with button that is a bit different than other spray buttons. It's bigger, for one thing. I will say that the company that makes the paint also sells additional nozzles, and I keep a few extras in case the can clogs. Here is what I have learned about using spray paint:

It's safer to swap out a clogged nozzle than to try t clear it.
Any coat without a flies, big dust specs or drips is a good one.
Go from top to bottom since the paint to flow down just a bit.
Hardest for me: Throw away the can before it is completely empty. At the end nozzles clog, it can shoot globs and the pressure drops off. This is painful to me because if feels like throwing away money...but...it can save on sanding time.
Wear gloves, eye protection and a respirator. Particularly if you doing it in an enclosed space.

I put the handle in the neck pickup cavity because it felt like it balanced a bit better. I don't think your screws need to be very long. The wood inside the cavity is paulownia. It's soft, but also light. Paulownia is very easy to dent, but I have even mounted a string-on-top bass bridge without having a screw pull out. The lightness also helps. I have made two basses with these bodies. They weight is about 3.4 kg with the neck and all the hardware and strings in place, so I don't think you need to worry too much about a screw pulling out. You just need to be careful not to drill too deep! On the other hand, if you are worried then use the bridge cavity. I don't think it makes that much difference.

If you make a tool like the one I used for flipping the neck I would suggest using a small nut and compression washer rather than the large knob I used. The knob was fine for me because I would flip the neck and then take the tool off for a brush on finish. Since you are spraying, it would be best to leave it in place, so you want a smaller foot print so that it does not interfere with the spray.

Also, with regard to the handles, I would make them as short as is practical. It has to be long enoug for you to get a good grip, but the shorter it is the less it will get in your way when spraying.

[Trevor Davies]

My issue with the trigger handle may be idiosyncratic. I realized when I saw TD's post that I am using a so called "artist" spray paint that comes with button that is a bit different than other spray buttons. It's bigger, for one thing. I will say that the company that makes the paint also sells additional nozzles, and I keep a few extras in case the can clogs.

@ fender3x: Is that the MTN94 paints? I also used them for Mr. Scary and my Truckster. I have used them since you recommended them to me, and I'm very happy with the colours and the finish.

[fender3x]

Yup. MTN94. I in awe of what you got out of them on Mr. Scary and the Truckster. Those are two of the coolest finishes on this site, and that's saying something. I don't usually like relic'd finishes, but I really like the Truckster. Do you give lessons?

My finishes are a considerably lower degree of difficulty. MTN94 is the only rattle can paint that I have been able to make work here. It's generally hot and humid, and this paint seems OK with that.

[Drashkum]

My issue with the trigger handle may be idiosyncratic. I realized when I saw TD's post that I am using a so called "artist" spray paint that comes with button that is a bit different than other spray buttons. It's bigger, for one thing. I will say that the company that makes the paint also sells additional nozzles, and I keep a few extras in case the can clogs. Here is what I have learned about using spray paint:

It's safer to swap out a clogged nozzle than to try t clear it.
Any coat without a flies, big dust specs or drips is a good one.
Go from top to bottom since the paint to flow down just a bit.
Hardest for me: Throw away the can before it is completely empty. At the end nozzles clog, it can shoot globs and the pressure drops off. This is painful to me because if feels like throwing away money...but...it can save on sanding time.
Wear gloves, eye protection and a respirator. Particularly if you doing it in an enclosed space.

I put the handle in the neck pickup cavity because it felt like it balanced a bit better. I don't think your screws need to be very long. The wood inside the cavity is paulownia. It's soft, but also light. Paulownia is very easy to dent, but I have even mounted a string-on-top bass bridge without having a screw pull out. The lightness also helps. I have made two basses with these bodies. They weight is about 3.4 kg with the neck and all the hardware and strings in place, so I don't think you need to worry too much about a screw pulling out. You just need to be careful not to drill too deep! On the other hand, if you are worried then use the bridge cavity. I don't think it makes that much difference.

If you make a tool like the one I used for flipping the neck I would suggest using a small nut and compression washer rather than the large knob I used. The knob was fine for me because I would flip the neck and then take the tool off for a brush on finish. Since you are spraying, it would be best to leave it in place, so you want a smaller foot print so that it does not interfere with the spray.

Also, with regard to the handles, I would make them as short as is practical. It has to be long enoug for you to get a good grip, but the shorter it is the less it will get in your way when spraying.

Will try to follow what ever you say to the tee. But i am sure I will get into a few hiccups on the process. I hope with help of you guys, it turns out well



Finally fixed the handles for better control. I wish I had bought ones which are much longer.

The trigger handle is coming today. I hope to start tomorrow.

One last doubt. How do I go about fixing headstock decal? It's gonna be a vinyl sticker. Should i stick it before the clearcoat and build up coats over it?

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[fender3x]

If anything the handles are a bit long. The longer they are the more they will interfere with your passes with the spray can. Seeing it, you might consider just using the one on the bridge side. It will be hard to spray under the part of the fingerboard.

I also think its best to follow the advice of people who (a) use a product like yours and/or (b) people who get good results. Since I have a lot more experience screwing up finishes than doing them well, my advice about things that lead to mistakes is probably more reliable than any advice I give about how to avoid them.

TD, Simon, McCreed are all much better at this than I am. Ultimately, though, you need to do what will work for you, the products you are using...and your climate. My daughter lived near Chennai for a while. She reported it being pretty hot ;-)

With regard to the decal, I put down a two or three coats of clear. I try to leave as little boarder on my waterslide decal as possible. Some people don't cut with scissors to avoid the edges of the decal curling. I use scissors, but I put the decal in a heavy book, with some other heavy books on top of it overnight to get any curve out.

If you make the slide with an inkjet you need to spray it with a few coats of clear to keep it from smearing when you get it wet. I think you can skip that step if you use a laserjet. Then I put at least three coats of clear over it before I sand...and then just enough to scuff. After that I put enough coats of clear on on the headstock so that I can sand it flat without disturbing the decal.

[Trevor Davies]

For vinyl stickers, I usually put down a few coats of clear, then place the sticker, then add more coats of clear. For a painted surface, I put the stickers straight onto the paint, and then clear coat! I never get the stickers completely imbedded in the clear coat, so I can still feel the sticker bumps - but I'm happy with that.

[Drashkum]

I have done a mist coat of 1k Rattle Can Clear. It's been raining here everyday evening. So going slow on the further coat to let the clear dry, despite the can saying that flash time is just 15 minutes.

The trigger handle is not helping much as I feel it is not pressing the cap well. I may have to return it and see it I could get a better fitting one.



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