Astracaster First Build FS-1

[fender3x]

I have sanded the guitar back and sides with 220 sand paper for staining. The place where I stuck those veneer in Neck looks a bit odd and uneven.
Like this


I can see that when I stain it it might further look odd. Is there a way to fill those gaps for much even surface look as in professional guitars? Like using a a wood putty or grain filler to fill the gaps and stain over it?

I don't have a great solution to this, but I toyed with three different approaches and then settled on this one as the least intrusive...

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=5339&page=6

I used a piece of maple to make a fillet that I glued onto the side of the neck to make a smooth transition. I ultimately used a solid color paint on the neck, and the good news is that it looks pretty good. I did not quite match the color of the maple, so I am sure it would be more noticeable if I had stained.

An alternate approach that I considered was to put some filler around the veneer, and sand until the top is smooth, and cap the "step" with a piece of veneer. That would probably not stand out as much if you are staining...but would leave a "step." Not a big deal, but I decided I didn't want a step.

I also rejected making something out of binding material for the transition. This could work if you don't care that the binding is only on one side. You would make the piece, glue it in and sand it like the fillet. Alternatively you could make the cap out of binding material. It would not be hidden, but might look like a design feature. Since it's physically impossible to look at the top-side and bottom-side simultaneously, it's unlikely that anyone but you would notice that the top and bottom are different.

[vh2580]

Maybe a little out of the box but you could make a feature that wraps both sides and around that joint with a strips of pearl. Would be obvious but also an "intentional " feature
I had to hide some rough marks when i modified a neck and became a bit of a feature.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=4637&page=2

[Trevor Davies]

" Is there a way to fill those gaps for much even surface look as in professional guitars? Like using a a wood putty or grain filler to fill the gaps and stain over it?"

I think I would try timbermate filler with a similar colour to the body, stain, and add clear over the top. If you are not happy with the result, then I would try binding or pearl ideas mentioned.

[fender3x]

" Is there a way to fill those gaps for much even surface look as in professional guitars? Like using a a wood putty or grain filler to fill the gaps and stain over it?"

I think I would try timbermate filler with a similar colour to the body, stain, and add clear over the top. If you are not happy with the result, then I would try binding or pearl ideas mentioned.

This is probably the best suggestion since it might work and it won't preclude using any of the other suggestions if it doesn't.

[Drashkum]

This is probably the best suggestion since it might work and it won't preclude using any of the other suggestions if it doesn't.

" Is there a way to fill those gaps for much even surface look as in professional guitars? Like using a a wood putty or grain filler to fill the gaps and stain over it?"

I think I would try timbermate filler with a similar colour to the body, stain, and add clear over the top. If you are not happy with the result, then I would try binding or pearl ideas mentioned.

I have ordered timbermate 1 kg box in natural yesterday after a lot of research in how to get it in india. I will be getting it in a weeks time. I hope to use it not only as gap filler in neck but also grain filler in body and the back of the neck.

I am Just waiting to get my hands dirty.

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[Simon Barden]

One option for the join area is to spray it with a similar or contrasting solid colour, a bit like a sunburst. Gibson have often used this technique to cover up join areas on an otherwise stained and clear-coated body. I think it’s one reason why sunburst finishes came into being.

Obviously the spray needs to be the same sort of paint as the clear coat e.g. both polyurethane or both acrylic, ideally from the same manufacturer to ensure compatibility.

Without an airbrush or small spraygun, you are reliant on using a spray can, so masking is very important as the spray pattern isn’t controllable. To get a graduated edge to the finish, you need to use the very edge of the spray cone. This means that you’ll need to point the can at an area to the side of where you want the fade, and probably where you don’t want paint! So you’ll definitely need to mask off most of the guitar to start with, and then add extra masking when doing just the edges. Definitely practice on some scrap wood first.

It does allow you to fill and sand the joins so they flow smoothly, without worrying about the stain being taken up evenly.

Here you can see how this ES-175 has a solid finish over the neck join area.

[fender3x]

One option for the join area is to spray it with a similar or contrasting solid colour, a bit like a sunburst.

Nice to see you back, Simon!

I have never mastered the rattle can sunburst, although I have watched a fair bit of youtube. This is the reason that the current ES I am working on is solid colors.

[Simon Barden]

You only need to ‘burst’ a very small area in this instance, so you don’t need to be particularly accurate, not the way you need to keep a nice constant distance from the edge of a guitar body.

It is but a suggestion.

[Drashkum]

One option for the join area is to spray it with a similar or contrasting solid colour, a bit like a sunburst. Gibson have often used this technique to cover up join areas on an otherwise stained and clear-coated body. I think it’s one reason why sunburst finishes came into being.

Obviously the spray needs to be the same sort of paint as the clear coat e.g. both polyurethane or both acrylic, ideally from the same manufacturer to ensure compatibility.

Without an airbrush or small spraygun, you are reliant on using a spray can, so masking is very important as the spray pattern isn’t controllable. To get a graduated edge to the finish, you need to use the very edge of the spray cone. This means that you’ll need to point the can at an area to the side of where you want the fade, and probably where you don’t want paint! So you’ll definitely need to mask off most of the guitar to start with, and then add extra masking when doing just the edges. Definitely practice on some scrap wood first.

It does allow you to fill and sand the joins so they flow smoothly, without worrying about the stain being taken up evenly.

Here you can see how this ES-175 has a solid finish over the neck join area.

Nice to see you back Simon. I have decided to go the timbermate way to fill that area and then stain it. Will keep your suggestion as a back up as that's the only way to go if this fails. Thank you

Finally was able to source some Timbermate from an Indian dealer in india. Phew.... Guitar building is tough in India where you can't source any reliable stuffs



I really hope to start the grain fill and stain this week. Waiting for putty scraper to come

Drashkum

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[fender3x]

I have not used Timbermate, but my go-to scraper is a hotel card key ;-)