Astracaster First Build FS-1

[fender3x]

That would work fine. Measure the total length of the wedge you wish to make and cut one piece to that length. Then cut another 2/3 of that size and the final 1/3 of that size. Then you basically arrange them and glue together so it looks like steps. Lay them all together so they line up and one end and you will get a gradual wedge shape.

1+ That's the approach I would use. Don't use the veneer pieces that have been stained or finished. Use only the bare wood veneers. Any bare wood veneer should be fine. You should have pretty much a lifetime supply for guitar repairs with the amount you got from your friend.

In the pic you have your spoon pushed pretty far into the slot, and it is flat rather than wedge shaped. So the first question is how far into the slot is "full length."

1) The way I would do this is by putting the spoon in wherever you need it to be to get the bridge right.
2) take a thin strip of veneer (maybe 4-5 mm). and see how much closer to the bridge you can insert it in front of the spoon. The place where the veneer is tight or an mm or two closer to the bridge is "full length." Mark the spot a piece of blue tape.
3) If you can slip the strip of veneer into the slot at the heel end of the spoon, you may need 4 rather than 3 strips of veneer to make your wedge.
4) I would probably use 4 strips rather than 3 in any case, since you want it snug and you can sand a little if it's too snug...and sanding would even out the steps a little. Just like BD suggested, but quarters rather than thirds.
5) Paint the side of the pocket and the strip with Titebond, and put the first strip up to the full length mark. Clamp it in place. Use a small piece of wood wrapped in wax paper between the clamp and the veneer so that there is even pressure on the veneer.
6) Wait 8 hours.
7) Same procedure for the next three pieces of veneer, with 8 hours between each.
8) Put the neck in and see if any adjustment (sanding or adding veneer) is necessary.

You can use the same procedure, if you want to, at the base of the neck/pickup cavity to add an mm or two of string length, though as long as you can intonate the high E to the proper length you may not need to do this.

[Drashkum]

I guled some veneer strips today to the one side of neck pocket. Step by step. I cut the strips first as per size of neck pocket after marking. Then inserted one by one as far as it would go in without breaking on top of each other and marked their levels. Then I glued the longest strip and inserted the neck. Then checked the scale and alignment and then inserted the other 2 with glue and rechecked the alignment and scale. I have kept the neck in pocket as it would serve as a clamp like force to glue the strips.


The strips in place. I may need to cut the strips above the neck pocket as my markings are in line with neck pocket


Alignment now


There is some space between neck and the pocket sides when i look from neck Humbucker route. Do I need to fill these too?

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[Drashkum]

Finally, I have glued the neck today after looking at various videos. I hope I have done it Correctly. The neck did line up with strings after gluing the veneer. Also I did check the scale Length during the mockup before gluing. Keeping my fingers crossed.

How long do I have to wait before I remove the clamp? I used the glue provided in box by pitbull.

Cheers
Drashkum

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[fender3x]

I have never used the PB glue. I used Titebond, which is probably similar. It it most likely a PVA (alphatic) glue... Funny that it doesn't say on the website. I would leave the clamp on overnight at least. My Tightbond bottles says not to stress the joint for 24 hours...so I'd leave it clamped that long at least.

I would also fill the gaps with veneer. It's cant' make the joint less strong, and might help a little ;-)

[Drashkum]

https://youtube.com/shorts/BFTEND1sIDA?feature=share3
Releasing the clamp after glueing. 1st moment of truth



Second moment of truth. I Hope the alignment of strings are ok





The pics of neck after release of clamp. There is a bit of residual glue at the back. It's sort of rubbery. I may need to score it and remove


The scale Length to treble side E string is set at 628mm

I hope this is ok.

Now that I have glued the neck. I want to prepare and stain the neck, back and sides of the body.

Do I have to use a wood filler first to fill the back of the neck and body and sides of the bodybefore attempting to stain? If so, What wood filler do you guys recommend? Should I stain the wood filler to respective colour that i want to stain too and sand back?

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[Drashkum]

This is the back of the body


Should i be grain filling for a smooth finish?. The body of FS-1 is made of basswood. I checked the Internet it says basswood is not open pore and doesn't require filling but this body has this vertical streaks like thing running in same direction of the body. As in below photo


So i am not sure if sanding is just enough to get a smooth Feel after gloss /sating rattle can 1k PU



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[Trevor Davies]

I did not grain fill the back of the body on my TL-1TB build. But I do not think it would hurt if you did! And filling in a colour that matches the stain should be good (though I normally fill in the natural colour of the wood - but have had issues with the filler absorbing the stain too much).

[Drashkum]

I did not grain fill the back of the body on my TL-1TB build. But I do not think it would hurt if you did! And filling in a colour that matches the stain should be good (though I normally fill in the natural colour of the wood - but have had issues with the filler absorbing the stain too much).

Thank you Trevor. I wanted to do a filling as it has a few deep marks on the body as seen in the below pictures.




Do u think I can get away with sanding with 180grit alone?

As for grain fill I am planning to use Timbermate as it is available here? What do u guys recommend? What grit to sand after the grain filling? Can I use a regular angelus stain after the grain fill?



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[Trevor Davies]

Hi Drashkum,

As for just sanding - light sanding should be OK! Is the basswood body a plywood? If it is, you will need to be careful about going through to the next layer.

Are those deeper marks dents!? If they are, you could try steaming them out (using a damp cloth and a hot soldering iron). I have never tried this but others on the forum have with lots of success.

After using timbermate, I usually use a slightly higher grit paper like 240. I have never used angelus stain - but maybe test it on some scrap wood which has been filled with timbermate.

[Drashkum]

Hi Drashkum,

As for just sanding - light sanding should be OK! Is the basswood body a plywood? If it is, you will need to be careful about going through to the next layer.

Are those deeper marks dents!? If they are, you could try steaming them out (using a damp cloth and a hot soldering iron). I have never tried this but others on the forum have with lots of success.

After using timbermate, I usually use a slightly higher grit paper like 240. I have never used angelus stain - but maybe test it on some scrap wood which has been filled with timbermate.

I'm not sure about the plywood. The website just says Basswood body on two places

One of the marks is a a millimeter deeper and other one is flush with surface.

So i thought if I fill it with grain filler it may become flat. But I'm not sure how cosmetically it will look.

Are there any videos for the Soldering on damp cloth? I shall have a look in youtube

Thank you



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