EX-4: Bridge Position / Scale length problem

[fender3x]

More Glück im Unglück ;-) ...The need to reposition the bridge leads to the opportunity to realign the bridge. If you are doing a non-transparent finish on a solid body, there is really no down side to the plug-and-sand approach. I have more experience with this than I wanted... This is how I plugged the holes the first time:

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=5339&page=4

Went a little nuts with it the 2nd time...

https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ck+gibson+body

The BEST advice I got for doing this to tape all around the dowel and then cut down the excess with a thin, Japanese saw. I had never heard a Japanese saw at the time...but what a useful tool! It allows you cut very close to the surface of the wood.

After cutting sand it flat. Using a lot of filler around the dowel and any place you may have marred the wood.

No one will ever know that you moved the bridge and you will have access up to about the 19th fret, which is about the same as a P-bass.

[Rabbit]

The BEST advice I got for doing this to tape all around the dowel and then cut down the excess with a thin, Japanese saw. I had never heard a Japanese saw at the time...but what a useful tool! It allows you cut very close to the surface of the wood.

Or go one better, a japanese flush cut saw. these have no kerf and are designed to cut dowels flush to the surface. Also useful for cutting wooden plugs flush with a fretboard if you use them for dot inlays.