Jmc fs-1

[JMC]

I've got an FS-1 kit, which appears to be based on the Fender Starcaster. Back in the 1990s I had an opportunity to buy an original 1970s Starcaster for just $600. I was a student back then and $600 was more than I could afford. That same guitar sells for a ridiculous amount of money now... so I still can't afford one. But I could afford the kit!

I'm going for a hand rubbed tobacco burst finish. All I've done so far is make sure all the bits are there and I've started practicing some burst techniques on scrap pine.

[JMC]

Hmmm. Just encountered my first problem with the kit. The nut has been installed backwards. The thicker grooves are where the treble strings will be and vice versa. Any suggestions?

[Trevor Davies]

Hi JMC.

I usually knock the nut out using a short length of 4x2, a hammer, and (very) gentle taps down and then up the neck. A couple of taps and it usually falls out! The recess will probably need a small file to clean it out. Then replace the nut with a small amount of wood glue in the join.

I have seen other posts mention using a large flat head screwdriver, from the side, with a hammer. I have tried this but ruined the plastic nut! Maybe the head was not large enough!


NOTE 1: This may be a good time to replace it with a bone nut - which is meant to be a lot better for sound quality.

NOTE 2: The nut does not need to glued in until the very end of the build. Then, if the nut action is way too high, the nut can be sanded from the base.

[Trevor Davies]

Additional:
The body wood grain and flame looks great.

[Dikkybee007]

I use a sharp knife like a craft knife or a Stanley and a pair of needle nose pliers.

Run the sharp blade down each side of the nut so it doesn't damage the finger board when lifting the nut straight up. You don't have to go very deep. Just below the surface of the wood. Stops the wood lifting when you remove the nut.

Grab the nut using the wire cutting part with the pliers parallel to the top of the finger board and the ends on the board, preferably with a piece of carboard or such so as not to damage the board and lift straight up. Don't have to worry about misguided hammer strikes or damaging the side of the board or neck with the bit you are using to strike the nut.

Have used this method on all my guitars without a worry.

[JMC]

Thanks Trevor and Dikkybee. I now have the nut out. Great tips. The tapping with a block of wood did the trick. And I reckon I might as well upgrade the nut while I'm at it.

[fender3x]

I have been curious about these... Are they Fender or Gibson scale length? Such a cool kit!

1+ on upgrading the nut. Totally worth it.

[Drashkum]

I have been curious about these... Are they Fender or Gibson scale length? Such a cool kit!

1+ on upgrading the nut. Totally worth it.

These are Gibson scale length with Fender starcaster body and headstock

[fender3x]

That's cool. ES-335 of a different shape. Getting a guitar you can't just go out an buy is one of the coolest things about building.

[JMC]

Absolutely. That's one of the reasons I was attracted to this kit.