50’s Gibson/335 wiring

[Johnny Bravo]

Thanks Trevor

I’ve done some multimeter testing and I get the same reading across the grounds as I do from hot to ground (including at the switch itself).

I genuinely don’t know what that means.

I’ve been trying to find a local guitar repair place but understandably they’re on Christmas vacation.

Oh well, I’ll just have to wait, I guess.

Happy new year.

Regards


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[Trevor Davies]

I’ve done some multimeter testing and I get the same reading across the grounds as I do from hot to ground (including at the switch itself).

I genuinely don’t know what that means.


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I assume those readings are really small (in the order of 1 ohm!) - then that implies there is a short circuit (or grounding problem), where the electricity can get from the hot to the ground easily (without having to go through the pot resistance). Normally that means there is a wire (or stand, or solder run) from a hot wire to the ground.

The hot to ground resistances should be (if the pots are in the middle position) about half the pot resistance (about 250 k or 0.25 M).

Thinking out loud here:

Double check that the volume pots do not short between the hot and middle lugs.

Is it possible that the hot braided wire on the switch is grounded to the braiding. Can you take the heat shrink off the switch (for the 2 braided wires only)? I need to be able to see the insulated hot wires at the solder joints.

Is it possible that the hot braided wire on the jack is grounded to the braiding. Can you take the heat shrink off the jack?