First Build - PSH-1 Hollowbody

[Simon Barden]

Lint-free cloths. Some of your T-shirts should be lint free depending on the material, but I get lint-free rags from Amazon. Paper towel should work OK for applying TruOil, at least the base coats.

[McCreed]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Yes, not all t-shirt material is created equal.

Also, some little fibres left behind will still be okay, but if you're getting fluff that kind of balls up, that's a problem.
The wee tiny fibres I'm talking about will a) just get buried without being visible; b) get knocked off with between-coat sanding* and then with final sanding and polishing.

How are you using the rag? Are you scrunching it up, or folding it into a "pad"?

If you're scrunching, the loose fibres on the edges (where the material has been cut or torn**) will drop fluff like there's no tomorrow.

If you are folding, this is the way to do it (IMO):

Cut (**NOT tear) a 150mm square of cloth with scissors.
Fold two outside (cut) edges so they meet in the middle.
Fold the other two cut edges into the middle.
Continue that process until you have workable size square and all the cut edges with loose fibres/fluff are on the inside of the pad.

This helps to greatly minimise fibres and fluff from coming off and getting onto the finish.
I know there are lots of builders/woodworkers that use this folding method, and I'm not the one who came up with it, however I figured it out on my own before knowing it was "a thing" .

*re: between coat sanding - I don't sand Tru Oil after each application. I only do it as needed (eg: debris in the coat, drip/run etc). I also don't do my first sand until there are enough coats that it starts to develop a sheen.
Lastly, and maybe most importantly, I don't use sandpaper! I use synthetic sanding pads. Sometimes called "synthetic steel wool".

[Trevor Davies]

+1 for not all "cotton" material is created equal.

My 2 cents:
I normally brush on the first couple of coats of TO so as to quickly get a good layer. (This avoids having the "rough" wood quickly rip apart the cotton cloth and leave fluff in the finish).
Once a good layer is down I then apply TO using a cotton cloth ball (French polish ball) created with a 10 cm square cotton wrapped around half a paper tissue.
I do sand every 5 layers or so working my way up through 400g - 2000g.

FWIIW - I think it is great that most folks have their own way of applying their finish. Experiment a bit and find what works best for you.

Good lint-free cloth can be expensive. I use quite a lot .
A quick test to check if cloth is lint free is to add some clear tape, press it down hard and then remove it. If very few fibres are removed it is Good cloth.

[mrpearson]

Thanks all, sounds like I am following most of your advice already based on what I had in previous posts. I am folding the t-shirt into a square with rough edges in the middle so not exposed.

What I am getting is tiny fibers not lint per se. These come off with a very light wed and dry sand with 2000 grit. More noticeable on the very dark Japan brown on the back. The top is looking pretty good so far with no issues.

I had a few dramas with my binding getting stained early on but after a clean and painting on the tru-oil everything is sealed now and staying put.

I will try and find a few other tshirts which can be sacrificed. I will also try the fresh polish method. I like sticky tape idea to test clothes.

Back to my shed !!!


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[Bakersdozen]

A brand new chamois will also work. Certain make up remover pads and also coffee filters.

[mrpearson]

One more question. I did a test applying my water slide decals after 4 layers of tru-oil and getting the headstock nice and smooth with a 2000 wet and try sand. Applied the decal which went on nice and smooth but the clear bits of the decal are slightly cloudy hence I could never bury.

Could it be sloppy application on my part or the truoil is not smooth enough yet or possible not cured enough ???


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[mrpearson]

A brand new chamois will also work. Certain make up remover pads and also coffee filters.

Like this !


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[McCreed]

One more question. I did a test applying my water slide decals after 4 layers of tru-oil and getting the headstock nice and smooth with a 2000 wet and try sand. Applied the decal which went on nice and smooth but the clear bits of the decal are slightly cloudy hence I could never bury.

Could it be sloppy application on my part or the truoil is not smooth enough yet or possible not cured enough ???


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Cloudiness is usually a sign of moisture. That's why if you spray lacquer or poly when the humidity is too high, you'll get what's called "blushing".

I haven't done waterslide decals on headstocks for a long time, but when I use to, I would allow it to dry for 24 hours. Sometimes under a 60w desk lamp depending on ambient temperature/humidity.

[McCreed]

A quick test to check if cloth is lint free is to add some clear tape, press it down hard and then remove it. If very few fibres are removed it is Good cloth.

Good tip Trev!

I'll put that one in "The Book"!

[mrpearson]

Cloudiness is usually a sign of moisture. That's why if you spray lacquer or poly when the humidity is too high, you'll get what's called "blushing".

I haven't done waterslide decals on headstocks for a long time, but when I use to, I would allow it to dry for 24 hours. Sometimes under a 60w desk lamp depending on ambient temperature/humidity.

Thanks for confirming ! Heading off on holiday for a week so it will have a good 4-5 days to cure


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