DTL-1SB First build

[McCreed]

2. Match sticks would work, or wood fill (But I would complain to Pitbull about those drill holes and the bridge holes and see what they say. The kit should be better than that!)

Agreed. There shouldn't even be pre-drilled pickguard holes. Especially on a veneered top that is intended to stained or cleared over.

I can't believe the bridge location/pickup routing issue is still prevalent in the TL kits. How annoying.
There are some workarounds with some kits, but again with veneer top, the fixes are limited without standing out like the balls on a tall dog. BS

You mention CA - as in cyanoacrylate (super glue)? How does that go when you coat it as I asume it does not absorb anything once dry.

When applied correctly, it will be transparent enough to allow through whatever colour is under it. It will also polish up to a mirror shine if you want. That's why CA is great for doing drop-fill repairs in factory poly finishes.

[DeanCraig]

I can't believe the bridge location/pickup routing issue is still prevalent in the TL kits. How annoying.
There are some workarounds with some kits, but again with veneer top, the fixes are limited without standing out like the balls on a tall dog. BS

Thanks McCreed - clamped the neck today and measured scale lenght to see if either the drill holes or the rount were wrong - or both!

If I position the bridge in the rout so hole is covered (ignoring the screw holes and leaving pickguard off) I can get a 648 scale length with the saddles at the half way position on the low E. So as the bad screw holes are hidden by the bridge I guese I can drill new ones.

Further once I fit the pickguard I can not get scale lenght so will either need to take a bit off it or alternatively go with a neck ring and switch plate to reveal the grain. The only aspect here is thinline control cavities are at an angle to the neck while normal teles have the control rout aligned with the neck. Can anyone see an issue here I am not seeing?

Thanks in advance!