Ok, I think I understand. I’ll redraw it tomorrow to tidy up the diagram and for confirmation.
Ok, I think I understand. I’ll redraw it tomorrow to tidy up the diagram and for confirmation.
1) ES-5V
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...highlight=Es5v
2) ES-3 (Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8953
3) GR-1SF (Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=9376
4) Non-Pit Bull Travelling Guitar.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=10303
5) AES-1 Special (Unwanted Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=11118
Does this make sense?
1) ES-5V
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...highlight=Es5v
2) ES-3 (Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8953
3) GR-1SF (Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=9376
4) Non-Pit Bull Travelling Guitar.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=10303
5) AES-1 Special (Unwanted Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=11118
Apart from the cap you should have is 0.022uF, not 0.22uf (which would be very dull sounding indeed). I'm sure you have the right cap, it's just the drawing value that's wrong.
👍 many thanks once again. Yes, wrong cap value written. It may yet be a very dull sounding guitar (in my hands).
1) ES-5V
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...highlight=Es5v
2) ES-3 (Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8953
3) GR-1SF (Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=9376
4) Non-Pit Bull Travelling Guitar.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=10303
5) AES-1 Special (Unwanted Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=11118
Thanks for sharing robsmith. I’ve got the braided wire now, however I am familiar with your “lubrication technique.”
1) ES-5V
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...highlight=Es5v
2) ES-3 (Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=8953
3) GR-1SF (Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ead.php?t=9376
4) Non-Pit Bull Travelling Guitar.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=10303
5) AES-1 Special (Unwanted Custom)
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=11118
The downside of using soldering braid is that is untinned, and so over time the copper will oxidise and its resistance will start to increase. It won’t happen overnight, and you’ll probably get a minimum of several years use before there’s any effect on the signal. Where it’s only being used just as a shield (braid connected to ground at one end only) it will continue to work well at this, but where used as a signal conductor, you may notice hum levels start to increase over time. Then again it will be so slowly that you’d probably not realise it was happening.
Rate of oxidisation will depend on local humidity and pollutant gas levels, so it will happen quicker in humid cities than in dry country settings.
You can mitigate all this by tinning the exposed ends of the braid yourself with solder (once fitted) and covering the copper braid with heatshrink, just leaving the ends exposed for soldering.
So, it’s always best to be prepared and have at least one guitar’s worth of braided cable in stock if you plan to carry on guitar building or fettling existing guitars.
The larger sized braid is fine if you are running several wires in the same braid, but not really worth it for single conductors when you can easily buy braided cable. As F3x says, it's normally quite substantial and stiff, much more so than single core screened wire with a plastic sheath. And stiff wires are good for making harnesses, especially for fitting inside hollow bodied guitars.