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Thread: Paulownia Precision

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  1. #1
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    At this stage the stain is already on. I may go the split the difference route, and do the do the holes for the bridge, but leave the holes for the pickguard until the end. I have plenty of curing time to think about it. Thanks for going through the details!

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    At this stage the stain is already on. I may go the split the difference route, and do the do the holes for the bridge, but leave the holes for the pickguard until the end. I have plenty of curing time to think about it. Thanks for going through the details!
    Paulownia is such a soft timber, I wonder if it would be worth while drilling and gluing in dowels where the screws have to go so they don't strip out when screwing into the Paulownia?

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    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit View Post
    Paulownia is such a soft timber, I wonder if it would be worth while drilling and gluing in dowels where the screws have to go so they don't strip out when screwing into the Paulownia?
    I may do a few more experiments with some scrap paulownia to check on screw stripping. I thought about using dowels, and actually have some 1/2" dowels for this purpose. Up to now I have been thinking the problem was most likely to be string tension on the bridge. To remedy this I had thought to do a string-through build. I experimented a bit with bass string ferrules. The lip around the top had no problem holding the ferrule in place and did not try to pull it excessively into the wood even under tension. Using this approach the tension on the bridge would mostly be downward.

    But now that you have me thinking about the possibility of screws stripping, I may do a couple more experiments...

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