You got it fixed, so that's all that matters, but for future reference, trying to wipe off a run whilst it's wet will result in exactly what you experienced.
The best way to fix it, is to let it dry, then scrape it level with a razor blade, followed by strip-sanding (strip-sanding is a technique, not sanding back until stripped). Happy to explain in further detail if you ever need it.
Can't wait to see the chameleon paint!
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
Hi McCreed
On the third coat, there was some spatter. Lesson learned there is to take the cap off and soak it in meth between sprays, I think. Nothing serious but I will just sand those spatters, lightly until they are level. Since they were third coat, shouldn’t leave a hole in the base coat.
As I look at the body drying, it looks kind of cool with the matte black colour!
Will leave it until Sunday to spray the color change paint. That will give it ample time to dry. The base coat had three coats in the can with some left over, so I’m thinking one can of the color change will give me at least 3 coats, which, from what I have seen on YouTube, should be plenty to get a good color shift happening.
Thinking about that other body....when I fill the holes, I might try a broadcast yellow lacquer straight over the grain filler and sealing sander.
This one...looks pretty old school!
http://www.sydneyguitarsetups.com/ni...stralia-guitar
Ah..razor blade on the splatters...gotchaOriginally Posted by McCreed
Actually, no.Ah..razor blade on the splatters...gotcha
I was referring to drips or runs that are more linear in formation with a defined high spot at the end (clear as mud, right??? I never tried to describe a run before!). For spatter, you have the right idea. Level with a sanding block on the flat areas.
Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...
This morning, I sanded back spatter marks and got it nice and smooth. It took some of the paint off the edges, back to bare wood. I guess, the primer isn’t supposed to be that durable, just the right colour and porous enough for the paint to stick to.
I notice that there is still some very faint grain marks in the paint work. Maybe 3 coats of grain filler and 2 coats of sanding sealer wasn’t quite enough....maybe 4 grain filler and 3 sanding sealer...although, to be fair the sanding sealer did go on lightly.
Still, I have now used all of the primer can. Got 4 coats out of it, so probably the one can of colour change paint will be enough.
I’m torn between trying to get the paint on today...giving about 5 hours for the primer to dry or maybe put it off until next weekend and let all of the solvent in the primer properly evaporate. There isn’t any rush, so probably next week will be good.
I have noticed that somewhere along the line, either I didn’t put enough grain filler in or sanding sealer over the grain filler.
There are faint but discernible grain lines in the primer.
Not sure if it comes out in the photo.
I think my options are:
1. Leave it and hope the paint fills in evenly;
2. Spray over the primer with more sanding sealer to make sure it is covered (with some scuffing with 400 grit or so to ensure the topcoat bonds; or
3. Sanding back to bare wood again and doing more grain filler and sanding sealer, then reapplying primer.
I’m tempted to try 2, since the sanding sealer is clear, it shouldn’t interfere with the primer and topcoat but maybe 3 is the better option.
Perhaps 1 would work and if it doesn’t, I could think about doing option 3 if I really don’t like it.
Probably I think, I will do option 1 and make a decision then.
Anybody has advice or experience, I would love to hear.
I think there is also an option 4, which is what I will try. That is, sand the undercoat back lightly, then wet the surface with wax and grease remover to see if the grain shows up so much when it is wet.
Then make a decision
Oh...and these guys turned up today...
Oh nice... I'm trying to choose tele pickups too. Which set did you go for?
I bought a set of these for Experiment #8. I'm looking forward to getting to the pointy, soldery plug it in and hear her ROAR end of things. Possibly a bit far afield for your needs GMan, but I've had nothing but good reports on Mr Glynn's.
FrankenLab
Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.
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