And now for something completely different...

[JimC]

A man with....

I have no idea whether this will work, or even be usable when/if it's done, but the Sixty-six body is waiting for the tru oil to really cure off before I give it a mid way rubbing down, and I'm still locked down away from home but with a workshop...

[JimC]

The starting point for this is a warped Pitbull neck (thank you Simon), but the only thing I envisage saving from it is the truss rod!

[fender3x]

one of those "Well I have this stuff, now what can I do with it" projects. I have seen attempted fixes like this on the internet. How do you plan to procede? my temptation would be to try to sand the top flat.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[Simon Barden]

It's meant to be a donor for the truss rod so Jim can make his own neck. The neck was quite twisted. The engineered 'rosewood' fretboard is just being used to mark off the spacing for a new fretboard. Jim pulled out the frets on the engineered board and it's not pretty. OK, he was quite rough with it and this isn't the best quality picture, but you can see that even with a bit more care, re-fretting an engineered board probably isn't going to work.

[JimC]

one of those "Well I have this stuff, now what can I do with it" projects.

You're right and wrong... It is a "I have this stuff" project, but not for the neck. As Simon says the neck is being scrapped, and I'll use the fretboard as a template for the fret slots on the new board. I appear to be hopeless at really accurate cutting, so hopefully that will be a solution.
But what's driving this is an error on my part with my 66 project. The Squier Strat that's being rebodied has as a significant role hosting my midi pickup, which gets used with suitable patches when I want keyboard bass sounds live. But the 66 body is too offset to fit the pickup control unit so...

[Simon Barden]

*It's an old Shadow MIDI conversion unit, which outputs MIDI directly from the local control box, rather than just 6 x pickup outputs on a Roland GK unit with it's 13-pin lead that need an extra conversion unit.

[king casey]

you can see that even with a bit more care, re-fretting an engineered board probably isn't going to work.

I've done a couple of them with no problems so far.
Not the best material to work with but it can be done.
cheers, Mark.

[fender3x]

It does live up the the John Cleese title, at least ;-)

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

[Simon Barden]

I've done a couple of them with no problems so far.
Not the best material to work with but it can be done.
cheers, Mark.

I think it may come down to the individual boards. Lack of consistency in manufacture means that some will be good, some not so good.

[JimC]

Yes, I imagine with skill, care and experience it's possible, most especially if it's one of the better boards or the surface has been stabilised with something. I supplied none of those three!

An interesting thing, when I took off the fingerboard, was that it was very hard to remove cleanly because the board was much more solid on the glue join than it was immediately above. So I tended to break through the board just above this layer rather than on the join. I suppose my heated knife was weakening the matrix between the fibres. My guess is I the stronger layer was down to the glue penetrating the fibres. Of course I couldn't really see what was happening until I had the board right off. !Skill, !care and !experience again!