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Thread: ES4-B 1st Build

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  1. #1
    Mentor JimC's Avatar
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    Sep 2019
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    SE England
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    I'd be inclined to use titebond, I think I'd have trouble keeping CA under control. I wouldn't see wood swell as a serious issue, and titebond way easier to remove excess glue and keep the job clean and neat. I'd use epoxy only if I were going to epoxy coat the fingerboard.
    Build #1, failed solid body 6 string using neck from a scrapped acoustic (45+ odd years ago as a teenager!)
    Build #2, ugly parlour semi with scratch built body and ex Peavey neck
    Build #3, Appalachian Dulcimer from EMS kit
    Build #4, pre-owned PB ESB-4
    Build #5, Lockdown Mandolin
    Build #6, Sixty six body for Squier
    Build #7, Mini Midi Bass
    Build #8, Acousticish Telecasterish Guitar

  2. #2
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Jan 2016
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    2,989
    Quote Originally Posted by JimC View Post
    I'd be inclined to use titebond, I think I'd have trouble keeping CA under control. I wouldn't see wood swell as a serious issue, and titebond way easier to remove excess glue and keep the job clean and neat. I'd use epoxy only if I were going to epoxy coat the fingerboard.
    I ruled out epoxy, because my shop/garage is also my office/garage and I am in it all day of almost every day. I don't like to have toxic stuff in here if I can avoid it. Given what I am hearing, I will probably use Titebond, which is my go-to glue for everything wooden unless it needs to be air-/watertight.

    Should I thin the Titebond with a little water, or just wipe off excess? My worry is that the slots are just slightly larger than .020 (my .022 feeler gauge will not fit in the slot). I can slide all the veneers back and forth in the slot, but it's pretty tight. Gave each just enough of a sand with 400 to knock off any burrs. My vernier caliper is not precise enough to tell me how thick the veneer is, but if I use it to get the gap, and then use a feeler gauage in the gap, it should be around .015.... so maybe better not to thin?

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