ES4-B 1st Build

[Simon Barden]

All the PB necks are 12". Saves any mistakes at the factory.

[fender3x]

Thanks, Simon. I managed to figure it out after making a small investment on radius gauges from Amazon. Also got a 12" radius sanding block.



I was thinking that I might use the veneer method for filling the fret slots. As you can see I had some chip out. Pic's a bit fuzzy...the chip out is not that deep, and I think it will sand out. Meanwhile I discovered something I had not seen before. The fret wire had been trimmed so that the part below the surface of the fretboard did not go all the way to the sides. The slot originally went all the way to the side, but the ends were filled with...something.

I am guessing that I can cut it out. The slot is between .020" and .022" and I think one of the serrated feeler gauges will cut. Hoping this makes sense.

[Simon Barden]

It does.

It seems to be 50/50 on my guitars as to whether the fret tangs are cut short or run all the way to the edge of the board.

[fender3x]

Not a super sharp image. I managed to knock out the filler that was at the ends the fret-slots. with my makeshift .020 serrated feeler gauge, which also worked pretty well for cleaning out the slot.



I have now cut some anigre veneer to go in the slots. Why did I choose anigre, you wonder? Because it was (a) light colored and (b) the only veneer I have. I got a 12" x 29" piece of this stuff about two years ago and have been using it slowly to correct mistakes every since. The internet tells me that it should have about the same density as maple, so it should be OK for this. Got to be at least as good as wood filler ;-)

[fender3x]

Are there any tricks to using CA glue? I know that it comes in different viscosities, and that's about it

I have seen some people use CA glue to hold veneer in the fret slots. Also seen people use Titebond. I am guessing that CA is better since Titebond may cause the wood to swell. also guessing that this should be low viscosity CA so that it wicks down into the slot.

I have also seen differences in what people use (or don't use) on the fingerboard. I won't use Epoxy. Trying to remain as non-toxic as possible. The main alternative seems to be using CA glue again. It *looks* low viscosity on the YouTube vids...but I am not sure. Anyone know?

The other thing I have seen used is just block oil. I am sort of inclined to do that. Partly because many of the folks who talk about wear on the fingerboard indicate that they have been using round wound strings. I'll be using flat, tape-wound strings, so maybe I will have less of a problem with this. My old string bass didn't have finish on the fingerboard that I recall, and it's strings were metal flatwounds. Would this make sense? If it wears too quickly, I figure I could always re-sand and seal with CA...

Thanks in advance!

[Simon Barden]

Thin CA is low viscosity and has very low surface tension and will run everywhere at the slightest chance. Whilst it will wick, becaus eit's so thin one application may not fill up the gaps that well so it may end up only glued in some places. So medium CA would be my choice, or even thick CA or the gel CA. Apply and insert, using disposable nitrile gloves.

I don't think Titebond would make the wood swell, at least not permanently, so I'd apply it to the veneer and the slot with a brush and then quickly insert, before any possible slight swelling preventing insertion occurs (no sniggering at the back). So I think Titebond should be fine. It really needs to be clamped for best adhesion, though as there won't be any upward stress on the veneer insert once it's trimmed flat with the fretboard, it's probably not that important.

I suggest that you'll probably want to apply some protection to the board, or at least the fret markers, if only to stop the maple strips getting dirty over time.

[fender3x]

Thanks, Simon, that's helpful.

[JimC]

I'd be inclined to use titebond, I think I'd have trouble keeping CA under control. I wouldn't see wood swell as a serious issue, and titebond way easier to remove excess glue and keep the job clean and neat. I'd use epoxy only if I were going to epoxy coat the fingerboard.

[fender3x]

I'd be inclined to use titebond, I think I'd have trouble keeping CA under control. I wouldn't see wood swell as a serious issue, and titebond way easier to remove excess glue and keep the job clean and neat. I'd use epoxy only if I were going to epoxy coat the fingerboard.

I ruled out epoxy, because my shop/garage is also my office/garage and I am in it all day of almost every day. I don't like to have toxic stuff in here if I can avoid it. Given what I am hearing, I will probably use Titebond, which is my go-to glue for everything wooden unless it needs to be air-/watertight.

Should I thin the Titebond with a little water, or just wipe off excess? My worry is that the slots are just slightly larger than .020 (my .022 feeler gauge will not fit in the slot). I can slide all the veneers back and forth in the slot, but it's pretty tight. Gave each just enough of a sand with 400 to knock off any burrs. My vernier caliper is not precise enough to tell me how thick the veneer is, but if I use it to get the gap, and then use a feeler gauage in the gap, it should be around .015.... so maybe better not to thin?

[Simon Barden]

No need to thin IMO. Let it sit a couple of minutes then wipe off the excess surface glue with a damp rag. The veneer will need to stand just proud of the board so it can be trimmed down to size.