Build #2 - Doublecut custom

[McCreed]

Just keep going with the clear and intermittent wet sand with 1200 till your happy.

Personally I don't introduce water into the sanding equation until the top coat has gassed off for at least 14 days and I'm beginning the final cut & polish.

And as far as sanding between coats, only if I have to knock down dust nibs and I will only use dry paper or a synthetic sanding pad. If I have to fix a small sag or run, I will will give that at least a few days and then use dry paper to fix it. (or razor blade, then paper)

Everyone's got their way of doing things. This way is mine.

[Tassieaxeman]

Personally I don't introduce water into the sanding equation until the top coat has gassed off for at least 14 days and I'm beginning the final cut & polish.

And as far as sanding between coats, only if I have to knock down dust nibs and I will only use dry paper or a synthetic sanding pad. If I have to fix a small sag or run, I will will give that at least a few days and then use dry paper to fix it. (or razor blade, then paper)

Everyone's got their way of doing things. This way is mine.

Ideally, I agree with you and that's the way I'd do things if I was working with a flat surface, but I find with the laminates, and especially with quilted laminates it's better to wet sand sooner than later as the surface is so uneven due to the quilting if you build up too much of a bulk before wet sanding you have so much bulk to move off the high areas you end up with an inadvertent sand through, either right through the veneer or through the stain.
But that's me, I've ruined 6 week's work before and prefer to work this way as I feel it's a safer method especially as I only use 1200 and 0000 steel wool, throughout..
My exception to this is when using self leveling poly, that you just gotta pay it on gas it, then forget it for 2 weeks.
Not saying my method is the right method, just saying it works for me and the end product is an excellent finish.