GST-1 second build

[FCD]

Hi McCreed,

These are all over. That’s why my basic idea was to build up more coats and then sand back to flat.

Anyone have any other ideas?

[FCD]

Have tried a drop fill method on a few spots that will be covered by the pick guard. Let’s see

[McCreed]

Have tried a drop fill method on a few spots that will be covered by the pick guard. Let’s see

Great! Let us know how it works out.

[FCD]

Drop fill didn’t seem to work that well, also would take along time as I believe it’s something to do with the fabric to wood process that’s created the issue.

I think I am going to try and build up 10-15 more coats and then hit it with 220 grit sand paper. My basic idea is to build it up “high” and level sand it down to flat. It may actually require some more coats then that but I can be hopeful

[Oby]

If those dimples are deep it's going to take more than a few dozen coats of wipe on poly to fill them up to the same level of the rest of the surface. I had a similar problem making a fake walnut veneer dashboard for my MG. I ended up using a can of oil-based clear coat (Cabot's brand) and ignoring the usual rule of "spray light coats to avoid runs" I sprayed a couple of thick coats to the point where it was running then let it dry for a few days before sanding it back with 400 grit first then again with 800 grit before polishing it the same as I would do for acrylic lacquer using a decent rubbing compound and a DA polishing machine. Technically I should have gone to at least 1200 grit before polishing but my DA machine is pretty good and the rubbing compound I use is #$%@ing fantastic.
I could be wrong but the main reason for using wipe on poly on a guitar is to keep the coating as thin as possible so it doesn't interfere with the tone. I think that's more important with hollow-body guitars and if I'm honest even then I reckon the "tone wood" debate is way over-stated with electric guitars using pickups that read a magnetic field and amplify it electronically. You've covered the guitar in glue and material anyway so what difference is it going to make if you use a thick clear coat instead of ultra-thin poly?

[Bakersdozen]

and the rubbing compound I use is #$%@ing fantastic.

Whats your secret??

[Oby]

I just thought of something else. Again I could be wrong but I think when you wipe on poly unless you're waiting a long time between each coat you're probably rubbing most of the last coat off as you apply the new one so it's not actually building up the height. It's not like spraying where each coat is just landing on top of the old one. You're actually rubbing it in when you wipe... I think. Could be wrong.

[Oby]

Whats your secret??

Meguiars Ultimate Compound.
Any decent compound does the same job. I've also used Scholl Concepts, Chemical Guys and a few other pro brands but you can get Meguiars in regular retails shops.
The real secret is spending a bit more money on paint and applying lots of coats so I have plenty to sand and rub back. A real pro would take the time to set their spray gun perfectly and reduce the orange peel to save time sanding/polishing. I'm not a real pro.

[Bakersdozen]

Perfect, that stuff is worth its weight in gold

[McCreed]

I could be wrong but the main reason for using wipe on poly on a guitar is to keep the coating as thin as possible so it doesn't interfere with the tone.

Honestly, I think it more about practicality. Most people either don't have proper spray equipment, or lack a work area suitable for spraying (even rattle cans). Also, if they're fortunate enough to have the space for spraying but not have a gun and compressor, rattle cans are notoriously susceptible to orange peel.
Whilst wipe-on takes many many coats to build up a deep clear coat, it's generally an acceptable trade off to having to level out orange peel or runs.

I am in no way saying you can't get a great finish from rattle cans. I seen some that are unbelievably good (not necessarily mine ).

I think that's more important with hollow-body guitars and if I'm honest even then I reckon the "tone wood" debate is way over-stated with electric guitars using pickups that read a magnetic field and amplify it electronically.

I definitely agree. I won't say that wood type has no effect on sustain or some other acoustic properties, but I too think it has been built up as hype more than anything.