Hi samatizer03 Welcome to the forum family!

Not sure how well equipped with tooling etc you are, or how confident you are with basic woodworking. The advice below is based on what I would do in your situation, and can be achieved if you have access to a suitable cordless drill and a nearby Bunnings style big box hardware store equivalent for a long drill bit and some basic sandpaper supplies. I'm thinking for your neck of the woods maybe that would be a Lowes, Walmart maybe Harbor Freight or similar?

For the wiring issue, it may be possible to redrill below the existing hole into the bottom corner, if you can get a hold of a long series Auger bit, maybe 1/4" diameter or so. Tape some card down to the top of the body where the bit would pass the rout edge to protect it from damage from the bit and probably wrap the free length of the bit as well.

The neck heel looks to have a much tighter radius on the corners than the neck pocket so it may just be a case of using a flat file or rasp to shape those corners to the pocket. You can also do this with a flat piece of MDF or hardwood, with some 80grit sandpaper stuck to it.

Before you do that though:
1. Check your scale length to the existing bridge position (34" scale length according to the specs), with the neck sat in the pocket as is.
- If your scale is at 34" or there abouts, you will shorten it by moving the neck further back into the pocket.
- Anything you lose by moving the neck deeper, you need to add by shifting the bridge back, if you don't have enough movement in the saddle adjustment to compensate for that movement.


2. Check the bottom of the pocket corners to make sure there is no remnants or left overs from the routing (little ledges, missed passes that might be obstructing the neck heel from seating all the way back, it does happen from time to time)

If you've established that your scale length will be fine, and you want to reshape that neck heel, then just go slowly and check frequently by test fitting to the pocket every so often during your re-shaping.
You can normally get that heel set tight up against the body and eliminate the gap by working methodically and carefully.

If you want to get all fancy, you can make up a cardboard template of the pocket, and see how that fits to the heel, this will show you how much work the corners need. This method is good if you aren't hugely confident in your woodworking skills as it will show you how far you have to shape.

Once you've got the basic shape roughed in, and you are happy with the adjusted fit, run up through the grits sizes to smooth off, probably stop at 320-400 to allow for stain or finish on the maple.

Hope this makes sense and helps out.