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Thread: First Ever Build - SV1

  1. #41
    Quote Originally Posted by a_novice View Post
    Can anyone recommend an alternative to using water for wet sanding?
    Hey mate! You could use gum turps.

  2. #42
    Thanks Bakersdozen will check it out. I知 paranoid that water will damage or lift the finish either around peg holes or on the front body around pickup and bridge cutouts.

    It does say for oil based but I知 using acrylic...
    Last edited by a_novice; 25-01-2019 at 05:40 AM.

  3. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by a_novice View Post
    Thanks Bakersdozen will check it out. I知 paranoid that water will damage or lift the finish either around peg holes or on the front body around pickup and bridge cutouts.
    It's easy to do. I've done it before on end grain and it's a pain in the butt to remedy

  4. #44
    Quote Originally Posted by Bakersdozen View Post
    It's easy to do. I've done it before on end grain and it's a pain in the butt to remedy
    Yeah I知 super stressed about it.

  5. #45
    I guess another question would be do you have to wet sand at all? Does anyone dry sand with no load sandpaper (if so what and where did you get it) it does anyone skip and go straight to cut and polish?

  6. #46
    OK, managed to finish the clear coat on the body today, so now time to let it cure enough before wet sanding. Will use the time to finish off designing my decal and getting the headstock sorted.

    For the wet sanding, was thinking of starting off with 1200 and then 2000, does that seem reasonable? I had a run on the back on the very last spray but other than that the body has come up really well.

    Then the old Meguiars to cut and polish.
    Build #001 PBG SV-1 Complete
    Build #002 Non PBG PRS Style Semi Hollow Complete
    Build #003 PBG TL-1TB Complete
    Build #004 PBG IC-1 In Progress
    Build #005 SMS 7Q - In Progress

  7. #47
    Member ILRGuitars's Avatar
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    I've used Micro Mesh pads for my wet polishing and they have worked a treat. Always use water as it acts as a lubricant. But you better fix the run first.

  8. #48
    Quote Originally Posted by ILRGuitars View Post
    I've used Micro Mesh pads for my wet polishing and they have worked a treat. Always use water as it acts as a lubricant. But you better fix the run first.
    With the run won稚 it be fixed as part of the wet sanding process as the run is the clear coat acrylic?

  9. #49
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by a_novice View Post
    With the run won稚 it be fixed as part of the wet sanding process as the run is the clear coat acrylic?
    Block the run out first, then smooth the rest.
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  10. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by FrankenWashie View Post
    Block the run out first, then smooth the rest.
    Got you, yep. I値l let the body cure for a couple of weeks then block sand the runs then sand all over.

    Hopefully I get the headstock and decal done while I知 waiting for the body. Plan to order some Tru Oil as well so I can do the neck. After that. Slowly, slowly..... :-)

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