GS-1sf 1st build - Cocoa

[Simon Barden]

I have a feeling you'll need much wider, shorter screws (with thread all the way up to the head) for the two screw holes on the top. Unless there's a centre block underneath the top at the back to screw into (rather than a smaller one just for the triangular tailpiece and strap pin), you've only got the thickness of the ply for the screw to get a purchase. Certainly the long screw supplied looks more like it should be holding the rear of the Bigsby tailpiece on, along with the strap button (though I may be wrong).

I'm sure other people have drilled pilot holes for the screws on the top, then put string through and pulled that out an f-hole. Then they've made some small wooden blocks with holes in the middle, pushed the string through and knotted it, then stuck epoxy glue on the top of the block, pulled it back inside the body with the string and tied a weight to the string to keep it under tension and hold the block against the underside of the top until the epoxy sets. Once dry, remove the string, extend the pilot hole through the block and then you've got a lot more for a screw to get a grip on and not pull out.

[BuffaloGhost]

Yeah I was thinking all that. There’s literally about 5mm of ply (approx) and the thread stops way short. We have a tonne of different screws here (although they are all Ali - not brass coloured bah) so I’ll dig through them. The epoxy sounds like a great - although convoluted solution. It would be good to see what screws are on a gretsch.

I gave up this afternoon on everything as the bezels for the pickups I ordered are wrong as they are not English style ones... no big deal. Returned those and waiting for correct ones.

Tried to get a centre mark today - the neck is quite tight and doesn’t move (I’m still pleased with the fit) but i have placed a clamp on it loosely. But I’m just not confident with my measuring to get the centremark today. Saw a good video using a piece of string to get a centreline so that’s a plan tomorrow and I’ll put a small screw in the tailpiece once I’m confident it’s in the right place and go from there.

There is a lot of movement and play in every part of the bigsby so I guess it’s a case of making sure everything’s as true as it can be....

Felt nervous about everything today.


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[BuffaloGhost]

Ok so after my doubts about myself and everything yesterday I took the plunge on a couple of things.

I’d been contemplating whether the painting etc would be easier with or without setting the neck. I decided that actually the measuring of everything with the bigsby would be easier with the neck set... painting wouldn’t be an issue as I’d just be masking everything up.

I re measured the centreline using the string method - works ok but there is SO much play in different parts of the bigsby to be really sure. I measured the centreline a few times and even got one of our build guys to double check it with me (this is with the neck pushed in but not glued) and we both agreed that the centre line was actually almost bang on where the veneers meet on the bottom of the body (I was a little stunned) so I marked and loosely screwed the bigsby in with one screw and re checked it.

As I say. There is so much play in the hinge that it was pretty hard to get an accurate measurment
With string. I don’t think it will be far off and if anytning it will be the top holes that need to move.

As I still wasn’t sure about two things moving (the neck and the bigsby - and the bridge just held in with masking tape.) I thought I may as well set and glue the neck. So I did. It’s just sitting setting now.

The glue we use on the jukeboxes is awesome stuff. It’s wurth special fast drying glue! So should be fully set in an hour or two but I’m going to leave it at least 48hours before releasing.

In the paint front I’m not happy. I think I did two many coats of candy. I also tested the nitro clear coat and it’s just soft as!!! Oh well this is why we test.

I’m also not happy with the colour. More tests to follow. yay




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[BuffaloGhost]

I have a feeling you'll need much wider, shorter screws (with thread all the way up to the head) for the two screw holes on the top. Unless there's a centre block underneath the top at the back to screw into (rather than a smaller one just for the triangular tailpiece and strap pin), you've only got the thickness of the ply for the screw to get a purchase. Certainly the long screw supplied looks more like it should be holding the rear of the Bigsby tailpiece on, along with the strap button (though I may be wrong).

I rooted through the screw cabinets and found some shorter? Fatter screws that should work better. They are black which actually might work colour wise. They do feel short but they still go through the whole way so should be fine.

Yes the longer screws are fine for the bottom plate. (Is there a block there? I forgot to look before I glued the neck) but the shorter ones I found will be fine for the top

Thanks for the comments.



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[Simon Barden]

Almost certain to be at least a small block. It's needed to help keep the two sides glued together at the back, otherwise there would only be a butt joint keeping them in place.

Too late now, but it's really not a good idea to use anything other than a non-waterproof woodworking glue for neck joints. If you ever need to take the neck off because you find it's at the wrong angle, then with the wrong glue, you can't.

[BuffaloGhost]

Almost certain to be at least a small block. It's needed to help keep the two sides glued together at the back, otherwise there would only be a butt joint keeping them in place.

Too late now, but it's really not a good idea to use anything other than a non-waterproof woodworking glue for neck joints. If you ever need to take the neck off because you find it's at the wrong angle, then with the wrong glue, you can't.

Eek. Well it is a water based wood working glue but I wouldnt like to try and get the neck off now.

Let’s hope it’s all ok. Finger crossed I guess. Thanks though.


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[BuffaloGhost]

It’s wet and rippley - think I need to turn my pressure down a bit as I’m shooting with a 2.0 tip (I won’t when I do the real thing) but it looks sooooo much better.

I have a gold that I’m intercosting with clearcoat that I’ll wet sand then Kandy then clearcoat tonsee if it’s any different.

The gold flake on its own looks bonkers!! Is there a way to post video?


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[Swanny]

Here's a photo I took of my GR1-SF of inside the body, when I was investigating how big the block behind the tailpiece might be. The block in the foreground (on the left) will be the support for the bridge posts, so the screws for the Bigby need to be wide, but not long, as they're only going through the top, into nothing.



With video, it's easy to upload to YouTube, then post the link here.

[BuffaloGhost]

Here's a photo I took of my GR1-SF of inside the body, when I was investigating how big the block behind the tailpiece might be. The block in the foreground (on the left) will be the support for the bridge posts, so the screws for the Bigby need to be wide, but not long, as they're only going through the top, into nothing.



With video, it's easy to upload to YouTube, then post the link here.

Brilliant. Thanks for this. I actually peeeked through an f hole and saw.


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[BuffaloGhost]

Paint question. I’m loving the feel of the neck so might just stain this and oil this (I dunno I’m just not overly keen on laquered necks) I also want to stain the sides and back but I want the back and sides 2k clearcoated like the top will be.

Are most stains compatible with a 2k clearcoat? Can’t find any info.


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