Alex's IB-7

[AlexL]

Its an in-bread cat.

OMG this is fucking goooooooold

[FrankenWashie]

OMG this is fucking goooooooold

I cannot be the only one who thought of it, and if I was, it’s Igor’s fault.

[JohnH]

Don't have any buffing tools and applying by hand after doing a thorough wet sand with 1500,2000 then all the micro mesh pads up to 12.000. Once 'as smooth as' after doing all the wet sanding, dry the body and then apply a liberal amount, not too much, of meguiars so that you can get an even spread on surface you are working, then simply rub hard with an open weave cloth (chux) and eventually it goes cloudy as it dries. Next step is to grab a clean microfibre polish cloth (can be bought at Super Cheap) and do your best at buffing by hand. Repeat on the other side and then work your way around the sides and curves.

I have used Brasso a bit in the past but it is very abrasive and burns in really quickly so you need lots of layers to sacrifice if using that stuff. Had a spare bottle of Nu Finish and on the Swampy Tele had a crack with some on it and was blown away with how well it came up that I have used it on the ES1 & MMB4 too.

Thanks Waz - just had a crack at the Meguires and it worked really well

[AlexL]

Hi! I abandoned this project for a few years but I have decided to have another crack (good luck, me)

I have a maple neck. The manual says

Rosewood and Ebony are usually left bare and given a coat of lemon oil or Dingotone Guitar Wax. Maple boards can be given a clear coating of Dingotone (neck kit) or Tru Oil to seal them.

But in the shop, Tru Oil and Dingotone neck kit are out of stock. Dingtone guitar wax is in stock https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...ne-guitar-wax/ - is this OK or is it best to just get some Tru Oil from another source (e.g. a gunshop)

[McCreed]

I do not recommend using wax on a maple fretboard, and I'd consider yourself lucky the Dingotone is out of stock...

You can get Tru Oil from a gun shop if you want a Tru Oil finish, but there are more options than just DT & TO. Those just happen to be the two products PBG normally stock.

The most popular DIY products besides Tru Oil, are polyurethane and lacquer. Polyurethane can be purchased as a wipe-on product or in spray cans as well as in a satin or gloss finish and can be water based or oil based. Lacquer, both acrylic or nitrocellulose can be purchased in spray cans but tends to be more expensive (especially nitro). This is presuming you don't have a compressor and spray gun to mix and spray a solvent based finish.

Oil based poly can be diluted with mineral turps to make it a consistency which can be wiped on and is significantly cheaper than store-bought "wipe-on poly".

There are other products, but I have just hit the top of the list for you.

[AlexL]

OK - thanks for the advice! So maybe something like https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-...rnish_p1520455 would be a good optiom (possibly diluted)?

[McCreed]

OK - thanks for the advice! So maybe something like https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-...rnish_p1520455 would be a good optiom (possibly diluted)?

That's what I use on my maple necks except that I use it in a spray gun. You can mix it 50/50 poly/turps and use it as a wipe-on though. I have also done that prior to getting spray equipment.

I have also done satin on the back and fretboard, then gloss on the front of the headstock. AND you even apply satin all over, then wet sand and polish the front of the headstock to gloss. Doing this creates a very different effect than using a proper "gloss poly" because the satin still contains a higher level of solids within it, but the surface is shiny. I kind of like it, but it's not everybody's cup of tea.

[AlexL]

Amazing - thank you McCreed.

[AlexL]

Hi team! Could I please get a look over this wiring? I've tried to set up a mockup of how everything goes together outside first, according to https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...2H1v3_2014.pdf

I think it's correct except for three things I'm not sure of:

1. What happens to the leftmost tab of the volume pot (marked with the top question mark). The wiring diagram appears to indicate soldering, but to what?
2. What exactly does grounding the purple wire to the bridge entail? (bottom question mark)
3. Are all those five wires going to the same solder point on base of the volume pot?

Thank you

[Trevor Davies]

Hi AlexL,

1. The leftmost tab of the volume pot is to be grounded to the back of the pot. Some bend the tab, but I join them with a very short wire.

2. The bridge wire needs to be grounded to the bridge - With a tremolo, I think they can be joined to the spring screws (But I have not completed a kit with this style tremolo!!) Hopefully some one else will add to this.

3. Yes - but than can sometimes be difficult. Twist them together first and then solder to the pot.

Plus, I cannot see the jack plug connections in the picture. The ground needs to go sleeve(?!) connection tab of the plug, and the hot goes to the tip connection tab.

I hope this helps.