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Thread: A first kit for Christmas: JMA-1L

  1. #91
    Mentor FredA's Avatar
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    Hey Maxence, good progress!

    'Bombes de peinture' is 'paint spray can' in English, not 'paint bombs' (I made the mistake before...).
    Don't scare the forum guys!

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    #1- STA1M - Completed Jan16 - GOTM Feb16 - Here
    #2- IB5 - Completed Aug16 - Here
    #3- 335 style 12 strings - 3rd build - Almost done - Here
    No #- SG1 'Franck Zappa' - Completed Apr16 for a friend - No build diary (yet?)
    #4- 'The Red Plywood Strat' - Completed Aug16 - Here
    #5- ST-1JR Star Wars - Completed Dec16 - Here
    #6- SG 3 pickups - Almost done - Here
    #7- JBA-4M JPJ Bass - Completed Mar18 - Here

  2. #92
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    Yes, save the bombs for Mururoa atoll.

    At the time of the french nuclear tests my dad and I were restoring and driving around a 74 Citroen D Special - interesting car to say the least. I made a sticker up for the bumper with the french flag and "Not a Bomb", which I thought was amusing......
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  3. #93
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    With ash, the wood grain and pores are quite deep, so you may need to apply another coat of grain filler after you've sanded down the first coat of filler. It's best to apply it with a plastic or rubber-edged scraper and use the scraper to push the filler into the cavities. Also its best to scrape across the grain as it helps to push the filler into the pores. And the scraper helps remove excess filler on the surface, making the sanding down afterwards easier.

  4. #94
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Good progress so far i grain filled my JMA body twice and it was well worth the effort.

  5. #95
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    Do you think that can work ?
    White MOTIP PRIMER
    Here's a translation :
    This white primer MOTIP is a high quality Primer for indoor and outdoor fast-drying pretreatment for treated and untreated substrates (wood, metal, aluminum, glass, stone, fiber cement and ceramic). This white primer is also suitable as pretreatment for ALKY resin finish paint.
    This product has an excellent covering, filling and anti-corrosion properties. It facilitates sanding, both dry and wet (from 400 grit) and can be repainted with any paint system.

  6. #96
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FredA View Post
    Hey Maxence, good progress!

    'Bombes de peinture' is 'paint spray can' in English, not 'paint bombs' (I made the mistake before...).
    Don't scare the forum guys!

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    Ok, thanks

  7. #97
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    Here is news of the day:
    I tried to sand for about an hour and a half the filler layer,
    it was not very effective, even sandpaper 120, I spotted a few shots in the front that I had not seen, the second layer of filler should arrange it!
    someone has a technique to sand more effectively? I feel like I'm not doing much! haha






  8. #98
    Member Grubsta's Avatar
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    Hi Maxence
    Are you sanding in the same direction of the grain or across the grain?
    You should sand in the same direction of the grain.
    Starting with 120 sandpaper is good to take down excess filler then try switching to a finer grade say 240 and see how that works.

    I had fill 2 times and even a 3rd time in some spots on the body on mine i found that the coarse sandpaper was tearing out the filler a bit as well if i sanded to hard.
    Follow the filling steps that Simon mentioned in an earlier post and it should work out well.

    Russ
    Last edited by Grubsta; 13-01-2018 at 07:59 AM.

  9. #99
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    It's also worth investing in good quality sandpaper, it makes a big difference. You should change it fairly often as well as it wears down and clogs, making it ineffective.

    But sanding is also just a lot of hard, boring work. It is very worth while, the better job you do now, the better the finish guitar will be.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  10. #100
    Member Volgar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grubsta View Post
    Are you sanding in the same direction of the grain or across the grain?
    Yes, why ?
    Sanding is badly done ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain View Post
    It's also worth investing in good quality sandpaper, it makes a big difference. You should change it fairly often as well as it wears down and clogs, making it ineffective.
    Yep, I recently buy some 180 good quality paper, but I certainly return take some 120 paper, I need some more ! ^^

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