The D.I.Y. FX Pedal Building Thread

[Dedman]

thought you and others might find this interesting Doc

[wazkelly]

Good one Dedman.

About 5 minutes in I was barely hearing much difference between the various chips used therefore more the sum of the parts not just any single one part being responsible for the overall sound. Made me think that with cheap to mid range priced bits you can get just about any sound and spending high end only yields negligible differences, if any at all.

[Dedman]

Yea, I find that it takes a really well trained ear to notice a difference. For me unless they are back to back I can't tell the diference. I often have this discussion with a mate who has a studio, he spends hours and hours on a track polishing it to perfection and I can't hear much difference , then it gets compressed down to an MP3 and played on an Iphone with $20 ear buds (1/2 the time on one ear bud) LOL

[DrNomis_44]

Cheers for that video clip Dedman, I've done some experimenting with different chips in an old Ibanez TS-10 Tube Screamer before, and found that to my ears the TLO72CP Dual Op Amp IC seemed to sound the best, this was quite a few years ago though.

[Chuck]

Quick question that's not too much of a derail I hope... I've ordered a couple of pedal wiring kits from http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au and just wanted to ask about soldering irons when working on tiny PCBs. What should I get? The one I have used on guitar wiring feels like it's too big. Should I get one of the really small gas ones? I don't mind spending a few bucks as I figure a good one is a decent investment... any advice on the best one to get?

[pablopepper]

If you want a good quality station, go Weller or Hakko. Just make sure you get one with adjustable temperature and replaceable tips. I got a generic one from WES Components a couple of years ago. Under $30, does the job well enough.

[DrNomis_44]

Quick question that's not too much of a derail I hope... I've ordered a couple of pedal wiring kits from http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au and just wanted to ask about soldering irons when working on tiny PCBs. What should I get? The one I have used on guitar wiring feels like it's too big. Should I get one of the really small gas ones? I don't mind spending a few bucks as I figure a good one is a decent investment... any advice on the best one to get?

Whatever you do, don't use one of those instant/quick-heating soldering-guns because you will find that doing so will cause some of the solder-pads to lift up from the PCB due to excessive heat, the very first soldering iron I owned was a small 12 Watt one that came with a Dick Smith Funway Into Electronics kit, it did the job but I had quite a few dry solder joints, your best bet would be to spend some money on a decent Temperature Controlled Soldering Station, a good example is my Duratech 60 Watt Temperature Controlled Soldering Station which I bought from my local Jaycar Electronics store, the Catalogue Number is this:


TS-1390


Here's a link to the Jaycar Electronics Webpage for you:


https://www.jaycar.com.au/60w-esd-sa...panel/p/TS1390


They are a bit pricey but definitely well worth paying the money for it, since it makes it so much easier to get consistently good solder-joints, make sure you buy a couple of extra spare fine conical tips, a spare tip-cleaning sponge, a couple of rolls of 3.0mm Goot Solder Wick, and a pair of small side-cutters, and you'll be in business.

[Chuck]

Thanks Doc - what's the reason for being able to change temperature? How does one know what temperature to use? I was thinking of a gas one as they seem to be recommended on some sites, but other than heating up quickly there never seems to be any other reason! My current one is a very basic Duratech electric one.

[DrNomis_44]

Thanks Doc - what's the reason for being able to change temperature? How does one know what temperature to use? I was thinking of a gas one as they seem to be recommended on some sites, but other than heating up quickly there never seems to be any other reason! My current one is a very basic Duratech electric one.

Basically, with a Temperature Controlled Soldering Station, you can set the optimum temperature to suit the type soldering-work you're doing so that you consistently get the best solder joints, and the temperature will remain constant, which will ensure that the solder properly takes to the metals which are being soldered together, those cheap 12 Watt and 15 Watt Soldering Irons tend to constantly vary in temperature, the standard 60/40 Tin-Lead Electronic Solder tends to melt at around 250 Degrees C, other types of solder melt at higher temperatures, I tend to have my Soldering Station set to 350 Degrees C because I found I consistently get the best solder joints at that temperature-setting, and also the metals being soldered suck up, or sink, some of the heat, the bigger the solder-joint being made, the more heat you need.

[Dedman]

Doc, I took your recommendation and got a solder station the same as yours from Jaycar, what a ripper!