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Thread: The D.I.Y. FX Pedal Building Thread

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  1. #1
    Mentor Chuck's Avatar
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    Quick question that's not too much of a derail I hope... I've ordered a couple of pedal wiring kits from http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au and just wanted to ask about soldering irons when working on tiny PCBs. What should I get? The one I have used on guitar wiring feels like it's too big. Should I get one of the really small gas ones? I don't mind spending a few bucks as I figure a good one is a decent investment... any advice on the best one to get?
    Completed Builds: #1 TL-1 "Telemaster" (GOTM Oct 2016); #2 The "Maplecaster" scratch build; #3 JB-4 "Bass IV" (co-winner GOTM Jan 2017); #4 ST-1M "Surfcaster" (GOTM Apr 2017), #5 JZA-1 "EC Deluxe"

    In Progress:
    Build #6 N1R "Semi-scratch" build
    Build #7 JZA-1 Baritone

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  2. #2
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
    Quick question that's not too much of a derail I hope... I've ordered a couple of pedal wiring kits from http://www.diyguitarpedals.com.au and just wanted to ask about soldering irons when working on tiny PCBs. What should I get? The one I have used on guitar wiring feels like it's too big. Should I get one of the really small gas ones? I don't mind spending a few bucks as I figure a good one is a decent investment... any advice on the best one to get?

    Whatever you do, don't use one of those instant/quick-heating soldering-guns because you will find that doing so will cause some of the solder-pads to lift up from the PCB due to excessive heat, the very first soldering iron I owned was a small 12 Watt one that came with a Dick Smith Funway Into Electronics kit, it did the job but I had quite a few dry solder joints, your best bet would be to spend some money on a decent Temperature Controlled Soldering Station, a good example is my Duratech 60 Watt Temperature Controlled Soldering Station which I bought from my local Jaycar Electronics store, the Catalogue Number is this:


    TS-1390


    Here's a link to the Jaycar Electronics Webpage for you:


    https://www.jaycar.com.au/60w-esd-sa...panel/p/TS1390


    They are a bit pricey but definitely well worth paying the money for it, since it makes it so much easier to get consistently good solder-joints, make sure you buy a couple of extra spare fine conical tips, a spare tip-cleaning sponge, a couple of rolls of 3.0mm Goot Solder Wick, and a pair of small side-cutters, and you'll be in business.

  3. #3
    Mentor Chuck's Avatar
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    Thanks Doc - what's the reason for being able to change temperature? How does one know what temperature to use? I was thinking of a gas one as they seem to be recommended on some sites, but other than heating up quickly there never seems to be any other reason! My current one is a very basic Duratech electric one.
    Completed Builds: #1 TL-1 "Telemaster" (GOTM Oct 2016); #2 The "Maplecaster" scratch build; #3 JB-4 "Bass IV" (co-winner GOTM Jan 2017); #4 ST-1M "Surfcaster" (GOTM Apr 2017), #5 JZA-1 "EC Deluxe"

    In Progress:
    Build #6 N1R "Semi-scratch" build
    Build #7 JZA-1 Baritone

    The Cavan Project
    The Magnificent Compaņeros

  4. #4
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
    Thanks Doc - what's the reason for being able to change temperature? How does one know what temperature to use? I was thinking of a gas one as they seem to be recommended on some sites, but other than heating up quickly there never seems to be any other reason! My current one is a very basic Duratech electric one.

    Basically, with a Temperature Controlled Soldering Station, you can set the optimum temperature to suit the type soldering-work you're doing so that you consistently get the best solder joints, and the temperature will remain constant, which will ensure that the solder properly takes to the metals which are being soldered together, those cheap 12 Watt and 15 Watt Soldering Irons tend to constantly vary in temperature, the standard 60/40 Tin-Lead Electronic Solder tends to melt at around 250 Degrees C, other types of solder melt at higher temperatures, I tend to have my Soldering Station set to 350 Degrees C because I found I consistently get the best solder joints at that temperature-setting, and also the metals being soldered suck up, or sink, some of the heat, the bigger the solder-joint being made, the more heat you need.

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