Zandit's First Build Thread

[dingobass]

Wow... noice spalt..
IMHO spalts look best with either natural, golden yellow or red stains..
So Coolangatta Gold or Karijini Red would be my first choices.
No real need to pop the grain, it generally speaking won't have much effect and in some cases can kill off some of the subtle figuring going on. But thats just my opinion on it...

Now as for the shopping infringement. I can be bribed with nice quarter cut chunks of Tassie Blackwood, Myrtle Burls and Celery Top Pine.....😆

[WeirdBits]

... I'll be stringing it up tonight to see what I'm looking at ...

Do your scale measurements first with the neck just sitting in place before doing anything else. That way you'll know if you can seat the neck further back into the pocket to remove that gap or not etc, before you start drilling holes or moving things around.

[Zandit75]

That chunk missing on the side of the neck pocket think best you fill it with timbermate, think there is a mahogany colour available.

I'm doing the back in a black tint, and I already have a small jar of Ebony Timbermate, would that work?

To get the neck heel flush in the pocket you will need to sand either the pocket or the neck heel so it fits. Fingerboard height looks about right.
You got the humbucker rings facing the correct way. You can bend the lugs of the output jack, do it carefully but you often need to bend them so it fits through the jack hole.
Hope this answers all your other questions

Thanks mate, I'll have a play with the output jack. The tall lug needs to touch the lead jack, yes?

Wow... noice spalt..
IMHO spalts look best with either natural, golden yellow or red stains..
So Coolangatta Gold or Karijini Red would be my first choices.
No real need to pop the grain, it generally speaking won't have much effect and in some cases can kill off some of the subtle figuring going on. But thats just my opinion on it...

Now as for the shopping infringement. I can be bribed with nice quarter cut chunks of Tassie Blackwood, Myrtle Burls and Celery Top Pine.....😆

I just had a close look at the top, and it looks like there are some cracks in the veneer, would it be best to apply a small amount of ebony timbermate to fill these cracks? Or would you suggest a different colour TM?

BTW, I'll ignore the bribe offer, we like to keep that stuff for ourselves!!
Besides, the Big Green Shed is my only hardware store option within an hours drive, and it's on my way home from work!!

Do your scale measurements first with the neck just sitting in place before doing anything else. That way you'll know if you can seat the neck further back into the pocket to remove that gap or not etc, before you start drilling holes or moving things around.

Thanks WeirdBits, I'll go check that out now.

[dingobass]

Looks like the cupboard under the stairs in the Warehouse is gunna get crowded then....

[wokkaboy]

Hi Zandit, yes ebony timbermate is the darkest I think so use that for a black stain. Be careful when you are fitting/removing the neck - the timbermate being on an edge will break off very easily. Clear coats should give it a bit more strength.

Yes the tall lug on the output jack will touch the jack tip. Once you have moved the lugs plug a jack lead in to make sure the tip isn't too tight to remove and the hot lug (short lug) is well away from the lead shaft/tip.

I wouldn't use ebony timbermate on the spalted veneer, you will cover up too much character. I usually leave the small cracks and crevices as they are - not worth risking sanding through the cap. A lighter colour timbermate may work.

Once you have done the mock build please post the distance centre of 12th fret to both E string saddles. Align the ruler in a similar alignment the string would go. Wind the saddles as far forward (toward the nut) as they go for the measurements.

[Zandit75]

Thanks again guys, most appreciated.
DB, Will that make me a Wizard??!!

[wokkaboy]

you are an optimist Zandit,

usually if you are sent to the Warehouse cupboard under the stairs you are lucky to get one feed and a glass of water per day !

[wazkelly]

Great looking spalt and tend to agree that a lighter and brighter colour would bring out the best in it. Do not recommend any grain or crack filling with Timber mate on the top as that will also require sanding and risk going through the thin veneer. Multiple clear top coats can act as a bit of a filler in that part of the finishing process and thus avoid sanding the bare timber top.

You could still run with a green but suggest adding a bit of yellow into the mix to lighten and brighten it up. Ebony timber mate on the sides and back are good for grain filling but on Basswood don't think it will be as dramatic as on some other woods. Beware that it creates a hell of a mess when sanding off. If it were mine I would do the same colour, whatever you choose, front & back, up the back of the neck and on front of headstock too.

[Zandit75]

Great looking spalt and tend to agree that a lighter and brighter colour would bring out the best in it. Do not recommend any grain or crack filling with Timber mate on the top as that will also require sanding and risk going through the thin veneer. Multiple clear top coats can act as a bit of a filler in that part of the finishing process and thus avoid sanding the bare timber top.

You could still run with a green but suggest adding a bit of yellow into the mix to lighten and brighten it up. Ebony timber mate on the sides and back are good for grain filling but on Basswood don't think it will be as dramatic as on some other woods. Beware that it creates a hell of a mess when sanding off. If it were mine I would do the same colour, whatever you choose, front & back, up the back of the neck and on front of headstock too.

Thanks Waz, it's actually Mahogany back and neck, so would that go alright with the timber mate?

[Zandit75]

Once you have done the mock build please post the distance centre of 12th fret to both E string saddles. Align the ruler in a similar alignment the string would go. Wind the saddles as far forward (toward the nut) as they go for the measurements.

OK, I positioned the bridge as close to center of the mounting holes, and wound the saddles as far forward they would go.
With the neck clamped in position, I have 314mm from the nut to the 12th fret on the Bass E string, and 315mm from the 12th fret to the saddle.
The treble E string is so close to the same measurements, it not worth mentioning it.
BTW, should the saddles be orientated differently between the bass and treble sides? Is this part of the compensation I've been reading about?
It's a Bolt-on neck, so do I need to worry about getting the neck straightened out yet?