Build #2 - PSH-1 (Redux)

[McCreed]

How did you go about creating the scallop and what did you do to make sure the binding had a good clean edge?

I experimented with paper templates to get the shape I wanted and marked it out.
Then used a scalpel* to cut through the binding at each end of the scallop (leaving it a bit longer so I could go back and trim exactly to the angle and length needed).
I removed the binding from the scallop area and used a Dremel rotary tool with a 1/2" sanding drum to rough it out within my marked lines.
Once roughed out, I changed to a half-round file and eventually sandpaper smooth it out.

*edit to add: I also used the scalpel to score through the veneer on the top. I score right along my marked line so that the veneer wouldn't splinter or lift with the filing and sanding.

Do you have a photo of what you did on the back?

No, I didn't reshape the back as it was a fully finished guitar. My plan was to do the scallop on the front and see if it improved the upper access. If it the result wasn't to my liking, then I would take on reshaping the back. I was happy with just the the front scallop, so stopped there. Had I moved on to doing the back, It would have been a much bigger undertaking when it came to matching the old and new finish and could snowball into a full refinish job. I wasn't sure I was up to that commitment.

I will mention that in the initial building, I did do a smaller scallop on the back at the lower horn, which was better than no scallop, but definitely made the front scallop more effective.
In hindsight, if I were starting from scratch, I would remove the binding right to the neck join (instead of leaving that little short piece like I did). Real PRS's stop the binding at the start of the scallop. I probably could have done it here, but must have though it would complicate the finishing or something. I honestly can't remember the thought process at the time .

[mrpearson]

Looks like you are on your way. You can find quite a selection of truss rod covers at www.thaliacapos.com. If they don't have your solution, you might find some good ideas. Good luck.

I made one from an old plastic box was made from some gloss black plastic. Just sanded it down and applied a decal on it. Agreed the kit truss rod cover is ugly.


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[mrpearson]

That's good outcome, even if it's not what you originally intended.

I'll throw two things out there for your consideration. (both pertaining to upper fret access)

1) A scallop in the bottom cut-away on the front (like genuine PRS)
2) Reshaping the back area where the body and heel of the neck join.

Just one or the other will make a difference, but I think doing both would provide the best result.
I added the scallop on mine much later after it was finished and it made a big difference, but if I were starting from scratch again, I would have reshaped the back as well.

The standard neck join is quite a square, stepped kind of design. Not ideal IMO.

Here's a link to my PRS-1TS showing before & after scalloping.

As this is a hollowbody kit I doubt there is enough wood in the wings for the scallop. I have been using a bit of dowel through the jack connected hole when drying the stain and seems to go all the way up to the top edge. Ie. No chunk of wood of there to carve. Correct me if I wrong if someone has been successful


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[RocknRolf]

I experimented with paper templates to get the shape I wanted and marked it out.
Then used a scalpel* to cut through the binding at each end of the scallop (leaving it a bit longer so I could go back and trim exactly to the angle and length needed).
I removed the binding from the scallop area and used a Dremel rotary tool with a 1/2" sanding drum to rough it out within my marked lines.
Once roughed out, I changed to a half-round file and eventually sandpaper smooth it out.

*edit to add: I also used the scalpel to score through the veneer on the top. I score right along my marked line so that the veneer wouldn't splinter or lift with the filing and sanding.
.

@McCreed: Did you have to re-glue the binding afterwards? and how did you finish?
I can imagine just sanding the new connection smooth and applying your clear finish?

Pretty brave move ;-)

[mrpearson]

Re-starting a Build Diary for my second build which is a PSH-1 kit from PBG.

PBG were awesome in their customer support and service. I took their advice in not going with a replacement of my custom order rather taking one of the standard PSH-1 kits they had in stock. They picked out a very nice expression as well - I can barely see any glue spots with the naked eye (just one so far); the maple veneer looks very nice; the basswood body does look good - not as nice as the mahogany on my custom order but perfectly acceptable; the neck and fretboard look great too with the headstock shape a much nicer profile than the very elongated/pointy one on my previous kit.

My original design ideas are the same.remains the same as for the original kit. I'll use a two-tone (chrome and gold) style for the hardware, in the same style as the PRS SE Hollowbody II. I have purchased some Tonerider alnico II pickups, new pots, switch and locking machine heads.

I just need to do something about the truss rod cover as the standard black plastic trapezoid one is not ideal. This may be an opportunity for some unique design and handcraft

All in all, I'm very happy. I'll wait for my replacement bridge to arrive before doing a mock assembly and checking the neck angle, bridge locattion, etc.

In the meantime, here are a few shots of the kit body and neck.

Just one question for the forum: The standard kit has white binding. My pickup surrounds and toggle switch knob are both cream in colour. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to tint/stain/recolour white binding?

Attachment 42454 Attachment 42455 Attachment 42458
Attachment 42456 Attachment 42457

Glad you got your new kit. Some shared learnings ….

1) my kit and also Viveks seemed to have large areas of glue that had soaked through the veneer edge. It was less obvious to see when wiping down with turps than the bigger surface chunks of glue. Suggest a very light water wipe down. (Careful though with water) The surface chunks come off easily with goof off, the glue soaked in is harder to remove. Vivek got some advice using warm water but be super careful not to warp the veneer. When trying to remove the stains my grain opened up and it took ages to fill. I would count on a burst in your design.

2) truss rod cover - see my other comment

3) the basswood can get very smooth, I used the truoil slurry method which worked amazing well to remove any grain texture on the back Even after heaps of sanding before staining the slurry method was required.

4) where the edges bend below the horns I really struggled getting any stain to absorb but accepting it as wood character which looks pretty cool.

5) the neck angle will need some work as the action our of the box is way too high. I think you have seen all the discussions around vivek and I building shims.


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[mrpearson]

Forgot to mention - your binding colour question. I have the opposite problem as my pickup mounts are white. When I layered my truoil the binding took on the amber colour which looks more cream now vs white.

I have been tru oiling my pickup mounts as I go so the colour matches the binding.

Simon’s tip around 3m tape is the best way to get a clean line but I found I still need to scrape and sand the binding to get a clean line. I found that it was easier to mask the stained body and then sand the binding to get a clean line vs trying to get a clean line when first staining. This is the weakest part of my build so listen to gurus like Simon and Mccreed


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[McCreed]

@ mrpearson - YIKES! Good point! I hadn't thought about the HB cavity, as mine is a solid body. That's just embarrassing .

dbeltrami, definitely check and see if there is enough wood there first!
The PRS hollowbodies have the scallop, but they are designed with it. Cheap MIC kits, probably not so much. Sorry for any misleading information!

@McCreed: Did you have to re-glue the binding afterwards? and how did you finish?
I can imagine just sanding the new connection smooth and applying your clear finish?

From memory (FWTW) the binding didn't come loose at all. Even that wee tiny bit by the pocket stayed in place.
Once I got the contour shaped and smoothed, I just stained it and applied Tru Oil (that's what the original finish is).
Luckily I had some stain leftover from the original build, so didn't need to mix a new batch and try to match it. The recipe was a combination of Angelus leather dyes. I had written down the ratios, but I'll be stuffed if I could find it!

[mrpearson]

@ mrpearson - YIKES! Good point! I hadn't thought about the HB cavity, as mine is a solid body. That's just embarrassing .

dbeltrami, definitely check and see if there is enough wood there first!
The PRS hollowbodies have the scallop, but they are designed with it. Cheap MIC kits, probably not so much. Sorry for any misleading information!



From memory (FWTW) the binding didn't come loose at all. Even that wee tiny bit by the pocket stayed in place.
Once I got the contour shaped and smoothed, I just stained it and applied Tru Oil (that's what the original finish is).
Luckily I had some stain leftover from the original build, so didn't need to mix a new batch and try to match it. The recipe was a combination of Angelus leather dyes. I had written down the ratios, but I'll be stuffed if I could find it!

;-) I just double checked this morning. Sorry to say but there is no wood up there to carve.


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[RocknRolf]

Luckily I had some stain leftover from the original build, so didn't need to mix a new batch and try to match it. The recipe was a combination of Angelus leather dyes. I had written down the ratios, but I'll be stuffed if I could find it!

I remember reading it back then. Good to hear your binding stayed in place.
Thanks!

[dbeltrami]

As this is a hollowbody kit I doubt there is enough wood in the wings for the scallop.

Yep, It's hollow. Probabaly a good outcome as I would have given it a go even though I am sure my skills are not up to it.
Then again, it could be interesting have another port in the hollow body :-)