Page 18 of 26 FirstFirst ... 8 16 17 18 19 20 ... LastLast
Results 171 to 180 of 258

Thread: NON-PBG - LP Build Diary for DIY Guitars GLP-40BBK

  1. #171
    Haha well I was trying to get a mirror finish wokkaboy.

    I have been heavy on the sanding so I thought I would double what wazkelly said. Let it dry for almost two weeks by the fire place and then hit it with 1500 wet and dry. I can't really do a better photo. It's hard to get the angles. I'll give it another go now...

  2. #172
    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    Hi Alkay, a bit hard to see as you say, with the cool temperatures you have had maybe 2 weeks it hasn't fully cured. Another thing maybe the body has been too close to the fireplace and caused small amounts of bubbling, depends how hot it got and how close it was to the fireplace.
    I think to fix you should wet sand the affected areas till the white streak has gone and then apply 2-3 more TO coats. It is a lengthy process in winter. Does the TO feel pretty hard and is there any smell ? If there is any softness or smell you should wait a bit longer to do more wet sanding.
    Hang in there buddy !
    Yeah ok cool.

    It wasn't too close to the fire place. Mostly on the side of it so no direct heat most of the time. Yes I do have a bubble on the surface too.

    Ok sounds like a good logical step. I'll sand that out "carefully" and do some more TO for 2-3 coats....then let it dry for another two weeks?

  3. #173
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    13,555
    Hi Alkay, since it's still winter would be safest to wait another 2 weeks after your 2-3 fix coats. DB always stressed not to leave a curing body/neck in direct sunlight so I presume too much heat from a fire could do the same for the finish but sounds like you have kept it far enough away from the fireplace.
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  4. #174
    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    Hi Alkay, since it's still winter would be safest to wait another 2 weeks after your 2-3 fix coats. DB always stressed not to leave a curing body/neck in direct sunlight so I presume too much heat from a fire could do the same for the finish but sounds like you have kept it far enough away from the fireplace.
    Ok cool,

    Thanks Wokkaboy. I tried to take another phone picture and my phone had a brain fart and turned off. You won't actually see the mark on the body anyway. I tried several angle but it's noticeable to the naked eye.

    Other than this it is starting to shine.

    Sounds like a good plan to wait. Wouldn't be a problem if I was in a better climate I think haha. I'm near Ballarat so yeah it gets cold haha.

  5. #175
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Caloundra West, Sunshine Coast Qld
    Posts
    6,631
    G'day mate. Looks like you may have sanded a bit too hard and also had a bit of bubbling too. No big deal as you can either lightly scuff sand with 0000 steel wool and apply a few more coats of TO or just lay some down on top of where things are at. TO is mostly quite forgiving with each subsequent coat provided ones underneath are OK.

    With the wet sanding, starting with 1500, make sure you have lots of water, no more than 3 back and forth light passes, wipe off the milky liquid, and then feel with fingers for smoothness. Repeat until it feels smooth with no lumpy bits then move on to the next level of grit which should most likely be 2000, then onto the micro mesh pads but only after being left for a very long time to cure.

    On my last couple of builds, wet sanded up to 2000 then applied just 2 or 3 more very thin coats to bring on the glassy finish so that the micro mesh pads had something to work with rather than cutting down through the layers after the 2000 sanding. Hopes this makes sense?

  6. #176
    Quote Originally Posted by wazkelly View Post
    G'day mate. Looks like you may have sanded a bit too hard and also had a bit of bubbling too. No big deal as you can either lightly scuff sand with 0000 steel wool and apply a few more coats of TO or just lay some down on top of where things are at. TO is mostly quite forgiving with each subsequent coat provided ones underneath are OK.

    With the wet sanding, starting with 1500, make sure you have lots of water, no more than 3 back and forth light passes, wipe off the milky liquid, and then feel with fingers for smoothness. Repeat until it feels smooth with no lumpy bits then move on to the next level of grit which should most likely be 2000, then onto the micro mesh pads but only after being left for a very long time to cure.

    On my last couple of builds, wet sanded up to 2000 then applied just 2 or 3 more very thin coats to bring on the glassy finish so that the micro mesh pads had something to work with rather than cutting down through the layers after the 2000 sanding. Hopes this makes sense?
    Hi everyone it's been awhile so I thought I would post a couple of pics. Cheers wazkelly for the last tip.
    I felt there wasn't enough TO on it so I got up to about 34 coats and it has been drying in the garage for a bit over a month now.
    The weather here has been fairly cold and I think it's dry now. There doesn't seem to be strong TO odor now but it is slightly noticeable. Its definately dry to the touch anyway.
    I think I'm ready to try 1500 and 2000 wet sanding now as wazkelly suggested.
    Then do another 2 or 3 coats of TO, wait another month to dry and then start with the micro mesh?
    Anyway, here's some pics:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	51.png 
Views:	593 
Size:	475.9 KB 
ID:	14149

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	52.png 
Views:	576 
Size:	325.1 KB 
ID:	14150

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	53.png 
Views:	605 
Size:	268.6 KB 
ID:	14151

    Cheers,
    Alkay.

  7. #177
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    13,555
    Hi Alkay, that's looking sweet. 34 coats of TO wow think there will be enough layers to cut it back with micro mesh pads now. See how it looks, might just need the micro mesh pads and a cut and polish
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  8. #178
    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    Hi Alkay, that's looking sweet. 34 coats of TO wow think there will be enough layers to cut it back with micro mesh pads now. See how it looks, might just need the micro mesh pads and a cut and polish
    Thanks wokkaboy,

    I think there's plenty of TO on now.

    So are you saying skip doing the 1500 and 2000 wet sanding all together and just do the micromesh pads?

    Cheers,

    Alkay.

  9. #179
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    13,555
    Hi Alkay, if the TO is fairly flat then skip the wet sanding. If it needs a bit of levelling then I would give it a light 2000 grit wet sand before the micro mesh pads
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  10. #180
    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    Hi Alkay, if the TO is fairly flat then skip the wet sanding. If it needs a bit of levelling then I would give it a light 2000 grit wet sand before the micro mesh pads
    Thanks wokkaboy,

    There's definitely some unsightly bumps on the body and the neck. Hopefully the 2000 wet sand will level those bumps out.

    Cheers,
    Alkay.

Page 18 of 26 FirstFirst ... 8 16 17 18 19 20 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •