Lefty Trini build

[LexLuthier]

I plan to do my mock build tomorrow but am excited to get going on this.



With that said - I know I am already going to hit a snag. I want to install a stop piece and tune o matic instead of the bridge/trapeze stop piece on most models like this. I have been shopping bridges/tailpieces and the Gotohs/Gibsons run about 4 inches. Has anyone here successfully installed one on a hollow body pit bull guitar? The body runs a plank of wood down the middle, but I don't know if it is wide enough to give me the space for the posts.

[Simon Barden]

The centre block in the 335-style kits is wide enough - just - for a stop tail. It's the same basic body as used in the ES-1 kits, just with different soundhole shape. You may possibly find that the very edge of one of the holes you drill might go through into air; it all depends on how well the centre block was centred at the factory. But you should be fine.

The ES-1 style kits can have issues with too shallow a neck angle, making it almost impossible to get a good action, and some have curved bottoms on the neck tenon. Have a read of this thread and check before you get too far. https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=12204

[LexLuthier]

Thanks! It looks like it has *just* enough clearance but I dont have a good way to measure the block on the inside. It appears to be similar to how many epiphones / ES models are constructed. I might try putting them in and if it fails, I will just find a creative way to fill the holes and revert to a trapeze.

Also - thanks! I've been reading these forums for a while and you are the absolute person who knows everything haha.

[LexLuthier]

I had a snag in my personal life preventing me from getting started, but finally, two or so weeks after receiving my kit, I have begun the mock build. I have not received my Gotoh tuneomatic bridge yet from another online retailer (they keep sending me an uncut Grover TuneoMatic) so I am slowly rolling out the mock build. Anyway - a few notes, observations, and questions.

Notes:
- I installed Grover inline tuners on the neck. The holes were slightly bigger than the tuners themselves, but I suspect it won't be an issue once I screw them tight and drill them on later.

-I am installing a Burstbucker 2 and 1 in the Bridge/neck respectively. I need to order black curved covers because I think it will go best with my paint jobs that I am considering (either Pelham Blue, Cherry Red, or Gold). Leaning gold. In the meantime, I stuck them in the pickup bays to make sure they fit. I believe they are good to go, but I had a panic moment when the springs/screws didn't fit my burstbuckers (because I didn't pay attention to the ones included by Gibson :-X). After sorting that out, it was relatively seamless, but I did scratch the neck pickup with a screwdriver and unsteady hand. Be careful, everyone!

The body looks mostly good. Some of the molding in the diamond holes are less than perfect. Does anyone think that they will be an issue?





Regarding the neck pocket, I think it might have been cut unevenly. Does anybody agree or think it's a problem?



When I clamped the neck to the body (using a C clamp with pads), it seems the run on the guitar body/neck is a bit off angle. I can't say for sure since I don't have my guitar bridge yet, but is anyone concerned by the uneven angle of the neck and body where it joins?






Finally, assuming there are no red flags on this preliminary setup, I will need to drill holes for the tune-o-matic bridge. Will this bit work out well? I don't have a drill press so I am carefully going to try to make the holes myself. Any advice on that would be appreciated!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Simon Barden]

Binding: You can scrape and sand the binding if it's rough.

Neck pocket: The base of the neck pocket is the main gluing point for the neck as it's the only surface that gets properly clamped under pressure. The glue on the sides of the neck will help, but as they aren't being clamped together, the join won't be as strong as the base joint. So the bottom of the neck and the neck pocket need to make good contact before any glue is applied.

What I can't see in the pictures is what sort of gap there is where the bottom of the neck and the neck pocket join. There appears to be a slight angle to the bottom of the neck pocket. I don't know if this is matched by the bottom of the neck or if you get an angled gap there.

You can sand the base of the pocket flatter, and certainly to get rid of the worst of the peaks, but you aren't going to get it perfect without lowering the base of the pocket by 1mm or more, which has implications for the way the neck fits.

I once stuck a piece of maple veneer to the bottom of the neck pocket in order to get it flat, as the wood was so pitted that there would have been minimal direct contact, and then sanded it to get it level.

Whilst I'd always recommend using a glue like Titebond for necks that can be separated if necessary, as the base of the neck pocket is quite rough and uneven, If you did feel that you wanted to stick some veneer on it first, then that can be stuck down with a void filling glue like epoxy or a polyurethane glue (e.g. Gorilla glue) and sanded, but then use Titebond for gluing the neck as you still have a wood to wood surface.

Neck angle: It's impossible to say whether it's OK without the bridge there. The kit bridge should suffice for testing as those T-O-Ms are almost all the same dimensions. You need to ensure the neck is straight first (it looks as if it may have a bit of back-bow in the photo though that could be lens distortion), so tweak the truss rod as necessary,so a metal ruler sits flat on the frets before clamping the neck and running the ruler along to see where it hits the bridge. Wrap tape around the bridge posts to hold them in place (don't fit the inserts) and get the bridge as low as you could with the posts screwed right down and as if the inserts were in place with their lip holding things up higher by 1mm or so.

[LexLuthier]

Before I dive into Simon's advice, I wanted to get the stop piece posts drilled. I did not have access to a drill press, and was nervous about "freestyling" a drill hole, so I used digital calipers to find the exact location of my drill holes. After I was certain I spaced the stop piece where I wanted and that they were precise/flush, I used the brad end of my drill to make a tiny starter hole to ensure accuracy. From there, I rigged a less than advisable drill guide workaround where I used a magnetic leveler and some thin cardboard to get as close to a perfect drill angle as I could. I believe it was a success! the stop piece fits perfectly, although I have no idea whether I am supposed to push in the taped posts into the body yet. It seems the factory-drilled holes and the ones I made (11 mm) are a bit tight to just push the hardware in. I am hoping to get some insight into whether I should tap them in with tape or bore the holes out a little bigger (which I assume would be a big no-no).

My pre-cut measurements:


The holes:


with the posts/stop piece in:


I also drew up my headstock! I am excited to start cutting, but want to see some videos of folks doing it first. It is reverse firebird inspired, but the paddle comes with some limitations so I had to get creative while saving enough space for the tuners/structural integrity. Let me know if you see an issue!

[LexLuthier]

Wanted to update a minor success! I am no woodworker, and this is my first true foray into doing anything other than maybe straight cuts for floorboards. The headstock has been the most intimidating thing in my mind. I don't have the right tools, and for the life of me could not find anyone with a band saw. The coping saw was of limited help to me. I tried two different ones and just couldn't get precision. To make matters worse, I also couldn't find a way to comfortably mount my neck to shape. I thought I was going to have a real problem.

I came up with a home-baked way to secure the neck and an area to use a jig saw, and cut away. The results made me nervous. It didn't look great, but I was hoping some sanding would salvage it. I am 90 percent done with it and really proud: I give you the before and after of my cuts:

My initial cuts (woof):



After a bit of sanding with a rasp and some 80 grit paper:





After buying this kit, I was disappointed that I couldn't shape a true reverse firebird headstock. But I am really happy with this shape. Hopefully it has sufficient structural integrity with strings on it!

[Trevor Davies]

Looks good. Shame you could not get your firebird though. A firebird inspired truss rod cover could still work with that shape.

FWIW I also had no success with cutting maple with a coping saw (mahogany was easy though). I use a jigsaw with the neck clamped onto a small work bench.

Structural integrity should not be a concern as there is lots of width still.

[LexLuthier]

Thanks! I appreciate the input. Interesting about the wood - I figured it was my complete ignorance on cutting but could not get the blade to change direction well and ended up "chunking" off pieces strategically with the jigsaw before doing the bulk of the cleanup with the rasp/sand paper.

I have a buddy with a 3D printer so I might do a firebird truss cover, but was debating a standard LP bell shape with a custom inscription. I'm not too broken up about the headstock shape. I think it's semi-unique and feels more my own anyway. The glass is half full here haha.

[Trevor Davies]

I have a buddy with a 3D printer so I might do a firebird truss cover, but was debating a standard LP bell shape with a custom inscription. I'm not too broken up about the headstock shape. I think it's semi-unique and feels more my own anyway. The glass is half full here haha.

The classic bell shape looks good on an explorer style headstock, so hopefully will look good on your build. You could print out, and cut out, a paper copy to see if you like it.