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Thread: Esquire-esque

  1. #161
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Very cool looking headstock. I like the logo!

    Getting a blue stain finish is tricky, in part because yellow has a tendency to sneak in. I have a guitar with a Fender Antigua finish on it. When it was new it was essentially cream and gray. By the time I got it it had turned all the colors of snot, because the top coat had yellowed.

    I was planning a blue with a build I am working on, but just could not get a color I liked. I think the reason is that I was trying to tint platina shellac. I could get it blue...but I was not able to get it to be a blue that I liked. A part of the reason may have been that there is just enough yellow in the shellac "move" the blue in a direction I didn't like. Or, more likely the combination of yellow in the shellac and yellow/brown in the wood migrated the blue. Ultimately I went a went in a different direction. But I would still like to return to this at some point....

    The recommendation I am seeing on the interwebs is to sand back the finish, and then use a wood bleach to get the wood as light as possible, and start there. I like Trevor's idea of using a tinted water-based finish, because water based finishes typically do not yellow (or at least not much) over time. Oil top coats can yellow rather dramatically over time.

    I actually had a similar thought in tinting the platina shellac. It's *almost* clear, and although all shellac has a bit of yellow in it, it doesn't deepen over time like other yellowing finishes. Alas, it is the nature of experiments that sometimes they fail. I am glad that I tried it on scrap before trying it on the body. When, at some point, I return to the experiment, i'll try tinting the water-based poly ;-)

  2. #162
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    The headstock and logo look good. Is it a waterslide type of logo?
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1,TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom, GHR-1 (Resonator), FH-5V (Acoustic).

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  3. #163
    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    Very cool looking headstock. I like the logo!

    Getting a blue stain finish is tricky, in part because yellow has a tendency to sneak in. I have a guitar with a Fender Antigua finish on it. When it was new it was essentially cream and gray. By the time I got it it had turned all the colors of snot, because the top coat had yellowed.

    I was planning a blue with a build I am working on, but just could not get a color I liked. I think the reason is that I was trying to tint platina shellac. I could get it blue...but I was not able to get it to be a blue that I liked. A part of the reason may have been that there is just enough yellow in the shellac "move" the blue in a direction I didn't like. Or, more likely the combination of yellow in the shellac and yellow/brown in the wood migrated the blue. Ultimately I went a went in a different direction. But I would still like to return to this at some point....

    The recommendation I am seeing on the interwebs is to sand back the finish, and then use a wood bleach to get the wood as light as possible, and start there. I like Trevor's idea of using a tinted water-based finish, because water based finishes typically do not yellow (or at least not much) over time. Oil top coats can yellow rather dramatically over time.

    I actually had a similar thought in tinting the platina shellac. It's *almost* clear, and although all shellac has a bit of yellow in it, it doesn't deepen over time like other yellowing finishes. Alas, it is the nature of experiments that sometimes they fail. I am glad that I tried it on scrap before trying it on the body. When, at some point, I return to the experiment, i'll try tinting the water-based poly ;-)
    I had the same concerns with the body colour, Douglas Fir is rather stripy and an unusual colour - so I couldn't be sure of what colour I'd end up with.

    The idea of "white" hit me as simply a way to "soften" things even if the colour isn't what I anticipated....

    I Also saw the yellowing effects of oils when the first attempt at a body was finished with Danish Oil.... This time I'm using Hard Wax Oils - which I am told will have a much lesser "yellowing effect". (but to be sure - I put a little white tint in it).

    I'll know in time if it works, I suppose.

  4. #164
    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    The headstock and logo look good. Is it a waterslide type of logo?
    I tried the waterslide thing - and found it a little more "difficult" that I originally thought it would.....

    I then found some "transfer paper" I'd bought for the kid's t-shirts years ago .... It uses the same inks as would the waterslide so I thought I'd give that a try as well..... It was a much easier process and the "edges" were easier to blend in...... but I have to admit the "practice" came out better than the final try (which was smudged just a little).

  5. #165
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    I have not heard about that approach before. Maybe you could post something on the decal forum. Speaking just for myself, I have mostly used the waterslide decal approach, but am not 100% satisfied with it. Always interested in learning about other approaches!

    https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...splay.php?f=47

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