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Hello all. Building a bass guitar with my grandson and can't find a wiring diagram that seems to fit the kit we bought. We have a DJZ-4 with what looks like two volume knobs and perhaps a tone knob. I've attached pictures of the front and back of the knob plate as wired. Can anyone please let me know how to proceed with the wiring. Thanks much.
https://guitarelectronics.com/jazz-b...iring-diagram/
this should do do the trick for you Fatman, it’s a typical jazz bass arrangement.
Based on the photos of the DJZ kits and your description above, the standard Jazz bass diagram from Pitbull should be fine. Let me know if there are any issues.
https://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-co...B-4_2014v2.pdf
Thanks much guys, can I please bother you for two clarifications:
1. On my prewired unit the bridge ground goes from the neck volume pot vs the tone volume pot in the diagram, but since these are all wired together I'd assume this makes no difference.
2. On my prewire, the wire from the middle post of the tone pot goes to the middle post of the bridge volume pot and then to the left post of the neck pickup pot. In the wiring diagram it is shown as the middle post of the tone pot to the left post of both the bridge and neck volume pots. Since the hot wire from the bridge pick-up goes to the middle post in the diagram and the prewire to the left post of the bridge pick-up, do I need to move the prewire to the left post? Or do I just put the hot wire from the bridge pick-up on the left post of the pot?
Also as a confirmation, the bridge hot wire is red in the PitBull diagram and on my pick-up, but the drawing says White--I assume this is just errata?
1. Bridge ground wire - doesn't matter where it comes from - just needs to end at the bridge and form a connection (but not a loop) with all pots, the jack and the bridge.
2. Prewire should be fine - same as cats - many ways to skin a wiring diagram.
Colours of the wires change over time - the diagrams are indicative and I've coloured them to make the wires easier to follow. Otherwise we are playing with lots of grey and black lines that overlap.
Hope that helps.
B
Thanks Brendan. Sorry to be such a pain. so, for connecting the bridge hot wire I should connect that to the unused (left) terminal of the bridge pot and not the already used center pot. Is that correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan
You're not a pain mate - all have been through this stage :)
I think I understand what you're asking, but to confirm - any chance of a photo?
B
I think I uploaded the pix--struggling a bit with the site protocalQuote:
Originally Posted by Brendan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan
Brendan
If I am doing the pix upload correctly, here is a closer picture of the volume pots. Hard to see, but the yellow wire goes from the middle post on the tone pot to the middle post on the bridge pick-up pot to the left post on the neck pick-up pot.
Thanks--don't get old.
Third yellow wire on bridge p[ick-up just a reflection.
¨¨Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan
The confusion may have been partly that this diagram is labled...
"“Jazz Bass” Pick-ups to 1 Volume, 1 Tone "
... it should be 2 V 1 T ;-)
The factory has goofed a little. If you leave it like it is and connect the pickups to the ‘spare’ lugs then zeroing the bridge volume with mute all sound.
For it to work correctly with )azz style controls (independent volumes) you will need to move the yellow wires (both of them) on the Bridge volume from the middle lug to the left lug, so it matches the Neck volume (like on the PBG diagram). Then you connect your pickup ‘hot’ to the middle lug on each respective volume. That will allow you to zero either volume without killing the sound on the other pickup.
Yep - pix were great - yep - go to the unused lug on the pot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by fender3x
Thank you fender 3x--I see what you mean.
Thanks Scott. So it will work either way, but for true independent volumes I need to move the wires as you explained.
Brendan
Not sure of the sequence of replies on the thread, but I think I understand from Scott's reply. In your reply are you saying to use the unused prewire "lug" or are you agreeing with Scott for independent volumes. Again my apologies for my ignorance on this topic and use of the forum. Thanks for your patience.
Independent volumes is probably better for this. More standard for J wiring and there's no switch....
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Sorry Fatman - Scott is correct - you'll need to move the wires.
Brendan
Brendan, Scott and fender 3x--
Thanks to all for the help--so far. Guessing we'll have more questions as we go along. You have been great!!
Hello all--
Problem 2--any advice on removing the standard nut and replacing with the bone nut?
Step 1: Wrap the headstock, behind the nut with a couple of layers of Masking tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatman
Step 2: do the same on the Fretboard, below the nut, right up to the nut.
Step 3; Take a small wood block, the same width as the nut, but taller and sit it against the nut, along the Fretboard.
Step four: Pick up your hammer, say a quiet prayer and give the end of the wood block a sharp tap.
Repeat, if needed, until the nut gets the hint. A single good sharp tap should do it though.
you may need to clean glue gunk off the nut area afterward, but it should go cleanly provided factory didn't go hog wild with the CA glue.
New nut can be set in place with a couple of drops of Gel type CA glue.
Hope this helps.
I find -
1. cut around the edges with a sharp edge - stanley knife / box cutter - should minimise splits;
2. using a hacksaw cut 2/3 of the way through the nut lengthwise - don't need to be too specific;
3. grab a pair of pliers and squeeze.
Should come off easily.
Thats the method I use for the F style ones, I’ve found the G style ones are more easily tapped off, though the scoring around the periphery is a good practice to get into. Hence it’s one I forget to do!Quote:
Originally Posted by Brendan
Great stuff--thanks guys. Knowing it's glued in and to score the edges gives me more confidence.
The wiring dummy again. I moved the wires so the final wiring was like the Pitbull one Brendan sent. Now the neck pick-up volume has no effect. Do I have a bad pick-up or pot? Or should I rewire it like it came from the factory? Thanks again guys.
Thanks so much for advice
Hi All--
We are also putting together an ATL-1QB and I am looking for some advice on how to copper shield the controls. The body is hollow on both sides with an F-hole on one side and only a hole cut in on the other side to mount the controls, which are mounted to the pick guard. So there are no "sides" onto which to put the copper, but just a hollow cavity one third the size of the guitar. Thanks.
I assume this is an issue with any hollow body guitar.
It's not usually possible to sheild on a semi-hollow, but yours might be an exception because the control hole is relatively large.
Best I have been able to do with an ES 335 type is use shielded cable between the components. The pickup wires should already be sheilded.
I don't think there is a way to shield the whole cavity with tape. However you could take a page from Danelectro and build a shielded box that the controls fit in. It should attach to the control plate and drop in. Or it could be inside the cavity. It doesn't have to be thick or strong. The old Dano boxes were made of cardboard with conductive tape or paint on them I think.
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
Got it--thanks. Sounds like a workable solution, I'll try it. Great to have the support for the uninitiated.
Our finished beauty. Thanks to all for all the help.
That’s a very pretty bass Fatman
Thanks--very satisfying. Thanks PitBull for making these opportunities and to the Forum--couldn't happen for someone as unexperienced as me without the help and encouragement.