MXR Cae Boost / Line Driver clone

So I wanted to start my first full DIY pedal with a fairly simple circuit, but something useful. I needed a boost and have already built a simple point to point buffer to see how I went with it. But I thought why not combine the two and save one pedal space.

Here's the layout

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a2230735e8.jpg

Cuts made and links installed.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f2ca24a5e4.jpg

Getting underway with ic socket and a few caps.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...454a997c20.jpg

Board fully populated.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...03f9eb6366.jpg

I was a little worried about avoiding solder going everywhere and creating shorts etc. But I was pleasantly surprised how the Vero board is so easy to work with. The solder really just flows along the channel and stays there. You still have to be careful not to use too much and for any debris that could create a inadvertent link. But as long as your careful and check each joint after soldering, it's relatively easy.

Internal layout.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...87213cc1ff.jpg

I was a little too over cautious here with room and the Footswitch could have been a little higher, but a good lesson to learn. Still looks fine and will be functional.

External layout.


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8bc761dd5b.jpg

Case was primed last night and gave it a quick sand and added some left over red SCA tonight.

Also finished the wiring and gave it a test and it all works as it should. Big relief.

I subbed the IC for a readily available TL072 , but may end up trying some different ones if I want to get experimental. This current one sounds pretty clean, which was the desired outcome.

Used a red/green 3 leg LED as this circuit will be always on in buffer mode (green) and red for boost mode.

Thoroughly enjoyed this process and heaps quicker than I anticipated. Started Saturday. Now for decal design over the next few days.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1d57d450e8.jpg

Great work! You'll get addicted to building them, I promise

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Originally Posted by JohnH

Great work! You'll get addicted to building them, I promise

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Thanks mate. Yes, I am already thinking about the next one.

Fantastic!!

They have some great layouts on that site. Once you get comfortable with the process it becomes an overwhelming smorgasbord of choice.

I like the trick of marking the cuts with a sharpie. It really helps to have some landmarks in the early stages of populating the board. As more components go on I find it gets easier to correctly locate the next one.

I find for the most part that I can substitute any JFET-input opamp for any other in these circuits. I have 4558s in a few pedals that called for TL072s because that's all I had at the time. All my opamps have arrived now but I haven't bothered to swap the chip because those pedals (Phase 45, buffer) are working fine.

And yes, it's surprisingly hard to make a solder bridge. I find it's a bit easier with the wires, they seem to take up more solder, but still quite rare.

Finally, I am happy to send you my 125B drilling templates/mock design templates. They are all in Inkscape format, and I have 1 through to 6 knob versions. All for top-mounted jacks though, but that's not hard to change. The files are too big to attach here.

Thanks DC I'm super wrapped in the while process [emoji4] Templates sound great, thank you . I used Inkscape for the Daily Driver overlay. Took a photo and then scaled it to size. Wasn't perfect, but it got the job done for a pre drilled enclosure.

Oooohhh that looks like fun!! I will have to look into this once my build is finished :)
Nice work! Do you have any links on how I can get started please?

I documented the end to end process in the threads for the Barber CDD and Phase 45 builds. These are both building on Stripboard/Veroboard, with layouts from Guitar FX Layouts, which is also where Mark got the layout for this pedal.

Also, I just started a thread for getting started with pedals. All the builders here can add tips and stuff there perhaps.

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Originally Posted by jugglindan

I documented the end to end process in the threads for the Barber CDD and Phase 45 builds. These are both building on Stripboard/Veroboard, with layouts from Guitar FX Layouts, which is also where Mark got the layout for this pedal.

Also, I just started a thread for getting started with pedals. All the builders here can add tips and stuff there perhaps.

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Nice one DC ! Beat me to it. Hope that answers your question @DarkMatterResist

@jugglindan @Bakersdozen Thanks for the links, that looks like so much fun. Will need to start one of these at some point. I have started looking into it as we speak, but need to pull away as I still need to finish my bass build haha!! Will come back later. Thanks again!!

Also, I forgot to mention that the idea of combining a boost and buffer is great. Almost no extra parts compared to my buffer-only pedal. I have a boost built into my OD-2, but that's at the wrong end of my signal chain coming after all the other drive pedals. So I mostly use it to push the amp. I use the level on the Orange Squeezer as an almost clean boost in front of the gain pedals.

Decal applied and will box it up tonight hopefullyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5e2511ec28.jpg

Looks great!

I have never thought of putting a signature decal inside the enclosure. Occasionally I remember to scrawl my initials and date in barely legible handwriting, but usually I have insulation tape all around "just in case".

Looks great!

I've been thinking of making up little stickers to put inside mine, with the date and what # pedal I'm up to.

I made a pedal last year where I sprayed the inside with primer and then cream paint, so nothing could short on it. It looks great, but took a bit of time.

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Originally Posted by JohnH

Looks great!

I've been thinking of making up little stickers to put inside mine, with the date and what # pedal I'm up to.

I made a pedal last year where I sprayed the inside with primer and then cream paint, so nothing could short on it. It looks great, but took a bit of time.

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Would it take longer than painting the outside? I would thread a metal nut onto string, thread that through one of the top jack holes then hang the pedal to paint. And then prime and paint the whole enclosure at once. Shouldn't take much extra time at all. Unless of course you use powdercoated enclosures.

But again, I have never done this. Just thinking out loud.

Yeah that's how I'd do it if the inside and out were the same colour. I was doing a black pedal, and I guess I could have done the inside black too, but the cream looks pretty classy.

I'm fairly happy just if the outside looks half presentable :)

You obviously want the back to make a good electrical contact with the main case, so you'd need to scrape away the edges if you just painted the inside and out at the same time.

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

You obviously want the back to make a good electrical contact with the main case, so you'd need to scrape away the edges if you just painted the inside and out at the same time.

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Good point. In that case I would also cover the screw threads with tape and after painting scrape/sand the paint out of the countersinks on the back so you will get a good connection through the 4 screws. Maybe also file the paint from the inside of the pot and jack holes, as the case is usually earthed through the 6.5mm jacks.

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

You obviously want the back to make a good electrical contact with the main case, so you'd need to scrape away the edges if you just painted the inside and out at the same time.

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True. I just taped the edges but that's a bit easier when you're doing one side at a time.

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Originally Posted by jugglindan

Good point. In that case I would also cover the screw threads with tape and after painting scrape/sand the paint out of the countersinks on the back so you will get a good connection through the 4 screws. Maybe also file the paint from the inside of the pot and jack holes, as the case is usually earthed through the 6.5mm jacks.

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I put a little bluetack in the holes and then pushed a washer onto it, so the paint didn't adhere around the jack holes. Once the jacks are in you can't tell.

All housed and happy.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ad3cf4e150.jpg

Nice! There's an MXR vibe going on. I like it.

Also, given tonight's ordeal with a new supply of generic waterslide paper, what brand decal paper did you use? I am pretty sure the stuff I have now is no good for larger decals. Hopefully it might still be usable for smaller pieces, because I still have 9 A4 sheets of it.

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Originally Posted by jugglindan

Nice! There's an MXR vibe going on. I like it.

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A little tribute in there. Buffer symbol and added a rocket it inside for boost was my train if thought.

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Originally Posted by jugglindan

Also, given tonight's ordeal with a new supply of generic waterslide paper, what brand decal paper did you use? I am pretty sure the stuff I have now is no good for larger decals. Hopefully it might still be usable for smaller pieces, because I still have 9 A4 sheets of it.

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Ah dude, I feel ya. I just replied in the FS-808 thread. This latest batch was an eBay inanimate seller I got a while back. Sometimes it works really well and sometime it just doesn't. The Daily Driver (for example) was the same batch of paper and went on and worked like a Boss over the vinyl wrap. This one, not so much, I really struggled. Was thinking maybe temperature and warming the water may have helped. I really don't know. At least you weren't the only one struggling today with decals.

I always use slightly warm water, and I used the same technique that worked so well on past attempts. The only change was the brand of paper.

A little time this morning to have a noodle around with this little self powered portable rig. All USB power bank powered not relying on mains at all. 1x 12 custom speaker cab with a V30 installed and the Diago Little Smasher 5W amp head to drive it all. Very impressed. light and portable.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...66f2699dd7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4e3aef0844.jpg

Looks great. How does it sound? And how much play time do you get from the power bank?

Plus I am chuffed to see the Daily Driver on there :)

Sound = great. Run time = TBA

Also, how do you get 9V out of the power bank? I thought they put out the USB standard 5V. I can't imagine the pedals or amp running well at 5V.

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Originally Posted by jugglindan

Also, how do you get 9V out of the power bank? I thought they put out the USB standard 5V. I can't imagine the pedals or amp running well at 5V.

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Good question! You can get USB 5v to 9v step up converters. Very handy piece of kit. Jaycar sells one (overpriced) but you can source em cheap on eBay. You will most likely have to reverse the polarity though. The jaycar one has pins you can easily reverse, but I can't speak for the cheaper ones - they may be hardwired.

Very handy for eliminating power to pedal boards and portable rigs etc with the right power brick

Thanks! Shouldn't be much to them, so DIY might be possible. Maybe a transformer or charge pump circuit.

Not that I need one right now...

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This has highlighted the need for a simple reverb pedal for this small rig .. I think the equinox 2 jfetless version might be a good fit. With a true bypass mod as I don't need another buffer in the chain.

https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com...ox-ii.html?m=1

2 PT chips and a simple one knob control rather than getting an expensive Belton chip.

Looks interesting, if you do build it I will be very interested in how it sounds. Reverb is one of those effects that I have never thought about building, probably because I like the reverb in my amp so much. One day I might try to work out a controller circuit for the spring reverb unit in the broken amp chassis I have.