Sam yes tru oil has drying agents. Some forum members have applied more than one coat in 24 hours but I'd recommend let each coat cure at least 24 hours in winter.
Even if its 2 days curing its at least half the wait compared to DT
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Sam yes tru oil has drying agents. Some forum members have applied more than one coat in 24 hours but I'd recommend let each coat cure at least 24 hours in winter.
Even if its 2 days curing its at least half the wait compared to DT
Cooler weather = longer curing
I really don't mind waiting. I've been waiting 4-5 days between DT coats. It's just that I seem to be finding now that most of the DT coat is on the floor of my drying room the day after I apply it. If TO is going to run off onto the floor in the first day then it's not the solution either. However, if it'll at least set in a couple of hours I'm not against heating the room for a while.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Actually, perhaps that's what I need to do for the DT. If the first couple of hours are crucial to it grabbing onto the body and not running off, I could heat the workroom to 22 degrees for an hour or so.
Sam if you aren't in a rush I'd apply it with the body flat and do one side at a time. Then maybe heat the room so it cures quicker
I thought about doing it with the body flat, but I wasn't sure how it would go where the two sides would meet at the edges. Especially since the edges are just as likely to run off.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I'm going to give the current coat some time to sort itself out, give it a rub down then apply a coat after heating the room to 20+ and keep it heated for a couple of hours - I won't mind that myself.
Still trying to work out what happened there....
During the R&D process I laid it on thick and never had any runs... Got an ugly orange peel effect though.
I will have to think this one through.
It's not like it's running rivulets from being too thick. It's more like it's just glacially sliding off.
Can see in bits of the grain where it has grabbed on and when it did it cured in place and went glassy.
So a little over 24 hours and it's mostly dry to the touch except the bottom edge where it pooled to drip.
That is really weird.. Not come across that one until now.
The damn finish should stay on the Guitar!
Do you have any of the finish left? I wouldnt mind being able to see it in action so I can try and figure out whats happening here....
I have some left. Perhaps enough for one more coat. I have more on order (suspended while thinking about options).
I really am starting to think this has to do with it being so cold.
I can hold onto the last bit, but I think I'll pull the trigger on the order for more and try a coat in a heated room.
Yhep, try keeping it in a warmer place so we can see if that makes any difference.
Being made here in sunny Perth, it never gets anywhere as cold and damp and miserable as Old Melbourne Town ;)
Yhep, especially now in winter when it is anything but warm!
I wanted to make a truss rod cover a bit more interesting than the provided black trapezoid.
So I got some red pearl celluloid veneer. It's about 1.25mm thick.
Marked and cut out the shape:
Attachment 3338
Since it's thinner than the plastic cover, the original idea was to inlay it into some rosewood veneer. The rosewood turned out to be thinner than I expected and it wasn't much thicker than the celluloid so I glued to to the top.
Attachment 3339
This didn't really have the desired result, nevermind that the glue spread into the wood and stained it.
So I glued together two rectangles of the celluloid and marked out and shaped it:
Attachment 3340
Drilled holes and countersunk them, then peeled the tape:
Attachment 3341
I think that'll do.
(nut not yet glued in place and neck top coat not finished.)
Nice cover Sam!
Wow, looks great! I'm getting a little chubby over here......
nice truss rod cover Sam well done ! I agree the ones supplied are very plain
It's not that so much as it is an area I can customise without laying into the wood with tools and skills I don't have. Not that I'd change the IB-5 body much. I'm considering an ST or TL kit to give me more opportunity for customisation.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
So I'm struggling with the top coat.
Attachment 3401
It might just be that it's too cold here - however I've tried applying it in a heated room that I kept heated for several hours and heated again the next day. Top coat did the same thing - that is, it seemed to disappear.
This time however, I'd left the body flat, so I don't think it ran off onto the floor.
So I showed it to a friend locally. He said he'd seen something similar with an ash body (and this IB-5 is ash) where it sucked up all the top coat it was given until it was given several coats of sanding sealer.
What do you think? Should I try some sanding sealer?
It's had a couple of coats of the stain and intensifying stain, and seems to have vanished four top coats.
Should I be concerned about the veneer/cap and all the stuff it's apparently soaking in?
thats no good Sam, I'd look for an alternative clear coat, you have tried everything by the sounds and had no luck.
Sanding sealers are generally applied earlier in the build process.
Might be time to head down the gun shop for some naughty oil
Wasn't something I thought I needed to do, and it took the colour so nicely. I suspected it would be too late now the stain is already applied.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
There is a good chance it is still just that it's too cold. The maple neck doesn't seem to be behaving much better - though I've got one more coat going on the neck with the laying flat and heated room treatment to see if there's a difference between the maple and ash behaviour.
Hi Sam,
see how the neck goes then but now winter has just begun, not much chance of warmer weather. Where are you located SE Melbourne near Pest ?
Yeah, not waiting for summer. Might never come.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Apparently not far as we have some of the same local shops.
I know I can get some naughty oil from the gunshop in Clayton.
I guess the question is how much should I sand back before I apply the oil. There are some spots where the DT has taken. Looks like in certain lines of the grain. Maybe I can leave those there as filler?
Sam I'd give it a light steel wool and apply the TO to a small area and make sure it doesn't react. I'm 99.5% sure you will have no reaction with the DT
Attachment 3409Attachment 3410
First coat the morning after. Applied in a room heated to 20 degrees and left to hang. Dry to the touch after 3 hours. Kept a wet look. A couple of streaks, but that's my application keeping it thin and not overlapping.
So I've applied about 8 coats of TO to the body and neck. It's dry to the touch in a few hours even without heating the room so I was able to get two coats in some days.
Has a nice glossy finish, but not smooth.
Attachment 3517
So, I was wondering what to do on the last coat. I've been doing the steel wool in between and even a wet and dry 1500 on one bumpy spot.
Reading about, people talk about all sorts of things like rubbing it with steel wool or "micro-mesh" (anyone know where to get that?).
On my LP I used auto cutting compound, as it was an auto acrylic top coat.
0000 steel wool seems to leave a very scratchy looking surface. I was hoping for a smooth matte if not gloss.
I'll probably apply a couple more coats of TO yet, then wait a couple of weeks before trying to smooth and polish it up.
I've also still got the Dingotone Wax. I expect to apply that to the body, unless that's a bad idea with TO?
Also, do you wax the back of the neck? (seems to me it would be better unwaxed, except the fretboard perhaps.)
Been applying thin coats when I get a chance and leaving it a day to cure before dealing with runs. Getting less runs as I learn how to wipe the coat on thin. Probably done more coats than is strictly necessary because of rubbing them back in between each time to smooth it out.
good stuff Sam so you must be almost finished clear coats and ready to polish after a long final curing period ?
When I can finally get a few coats in a row that i don't pick a lumpy run off. Then it'll be time to let it hang and cure while I prepare the electronics.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Wondering if there's any reason I shouldn't start installing the shielding after a couple of days curing.
Sam should be able to start installing shielding after 2-3 days curing, just make sure the tru oil has hardened enough.
What should I polish the TO with?Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I have a thimble of dingo wax still.
Oh, and what is a "long" curing? 2 weeks, 4 weeks, longer?
Sam I'd get some auto car polish, Meguiars products always work well.
In terms of curing hard to say, if the weather is cool might be worth waiting a bit more than 2 weeks.
Stick a fingernail in an area that will be covered by a pup surround to test the hardness is a good way of knowing when its ready to polish
I have some "Polyglaze Cut & Polish" from a time some number of years ago when I tried fixing some scratches on my car.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I recall using this on the LP that I sprayed with auto clear acrylic.
Perhaps that will do for this TO finish as well. Guess I TO a bit of pine and let it set, then try it.
should be ok to use Sam, but be careful if its a few years old, I'd try a test piece in case. A fresh bottle/jar would be more reliable
http://i.imgur.com/3H3A3iXl.jpg
Getting closer. After a few attempts at the tru-oil top coat needed sanding back because I let it run or similar errors - I think I've gotten the hang of it.
Also, a wet sand of the neck with tru-oil as the lubricant has given me the smooth coated neck I was hoping for. Just need to clean up the face of the headstock a little.
Hey Sam, just be careful cutting and polishing the TO. You can do it, but the TO coats are so thin it is very easy to polish through. I have found thinning the TO with mineral turps 50/50 is a good way to get a nice even final coat.
cheers,
Gav.
I think the last few coats, which were applied just by hand rubbing a thin coat over the body have come up pretty smooth. I'm not sure I want to cut it now.
Pretty happy with the neck finish, removed the masking tape from the fretboard.
Sanded the sharp edge of the clear coat where it met the tape until it wasn't noticable mock playing. (I wonder if there's a way to avoid that.)
Gave the fretboard a wipe down with lemon oil.
Installed the bone nut.
Attachment 4126Attachment 4127
Slight exposure of the rosewood underneath the nut as the old plastic nut was slightly wider. Hopefully won't be all that noticable with the truss rod cover installed.
Bone nut looks great Sam. On the home stretch
Wanting to progress this a little, while sorting out the finish on the body (which I think is clean enough, just need to wait a week before giving it a polish, no cut); I decided to install the machine heads.
In hindsight I would have aligned them like the left picture, but I had already pre-drilled the holes for the machine head screws back when I thought I wanted the keys to all be parallel.
Attachment 4390Attachment 4391
So what I've got is the picture on the right. Something to remember when working on the IB-6S.
Gave the body a sand and polish. Working up from 600 through to 2000 then using a Fine/Finer/Finest liquid polishing kit.
Attachment 4460