PSH-1 Build

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

If you can get the strings just touching the frets at minimum height, you should be fine.

Also, your height comparison pics have all been on the bass side. You’ll want a lower action on the treble side and there is probably a very slight neck twist. Not enough to affect playing but it can lead to an imbalance in action heights between the treble and bass sides with the bridge fully lowered, so check both sides of the neck.

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Thanks Simon, will also replace the saddles on the new bridge with the one from the kit, like you mentioned they are shallow and don’t offer a significant break angle for the strings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

If you can get the strings just touching the frets at minimum height, you should be fine.

Also, your height comparison pics have all been on the bass side. You’ll want a lower action on the treble side and there is probably a very slight neck twist. Not enough to affect playing but it can lead to an imbalance in action heights between the treble and bass sides with the bridge fully lowered, so check both sides of the neck.

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[mention]vivek_rc [/mention] - check out my build diary I have put a photo of my action I achieved with a 1.5mm shim and lowering my bridge as much as I could. With the nut lowered too i cannot get the strings touching the frets but it is acceptable and similar to my prs so happy non the less. It would be good to have a bit more adjustment but the kit is not going to make this possible.


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Thanks [mention]Mrpearce [/mention]. Let me fit the shim and clamp the neck again now that I have the new bridge and update with some photos. Did you swap the saddles with the one from the kit bridge?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by vivek_rc

Thanks [mention]Mrpearce [/mention]. Let me fit the shim and clamp the neck again now that I have the new bridge and update with some photos. Did you swap the saddles with the one from the kit bridge?


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Haven’t changed the saddles yet. Will do this later once my locking posts arrive. I checked the setup on my PRS and the action on the kit is lower so I have room to play with when I do my final setup.


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Hi Guys

So have clamped the neck down again with the single Shim in place. The high and low E strings are just hovering above the frets.
The bridge is at its lowest point, saddles have not been swapped over from the kit bridge. Is this what I’m aiming for?


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c08089eb70.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...57a32d88dc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b307b93572.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0f5d803834.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...660be4fdc9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...52f0b59115.jpg

I'd be happy with that! Nowhere to go but up!

The kit saddles are a bit higher than the replacement bridge saddles, so your lowest action will be a bit higher as well. I'd swap them over and test again. Whilst it should be fine, it's better to be safe than sorry.

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

The kit saddles are a bit higher than the replacement bridge saddles, so your lowest action will be a bit higher as well. I'd swap them over and test again. Whilst it should be fine, it's better to be safe than sorry.

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Thanks Simon, will get on it over the weekend…

Hi Simon, Guys

So I’ve now swapped the saddles from the kit to the musiclly bridge, with the single shim, action was high over the 12th fret, had to then add in the extra shim under my 1mm shim, now the strings are just over the frets lower frets. the bridge is at its lowest point and Both the high and low E string is now pivoting on the 22nd fret.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8e61dfd3a1.jpg


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...90bf41d423.jpg

Photo below of the action at the higher frets

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...930cd4e5c2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...513aab436c.jpg

Action at the first few frets
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5ecd698231.jpg

Action at the 12th fret

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1afa7c9982.jpg

Is this promising?

Yes, that looks fine. The nut slots are too high for a low action, but cut them lower (or sand the bottom of the nut instead) and that height will come right down.

Looks like you'll be able to get a really nice low set-up on it (if that's your preference).

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Yes, that looks fine. The nut slots are too high for a low action, but cut them lower (or sand the bottom of the nut instead) and that height will come right down.

Looks like you'll be able to get a really nice low set-up on it (if that's your preference).

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Thanks Simon, I actually ordered a Bone nut with the kit, never swapped out a nut before so will be YouTubeing it on how to replace a nut. Will compare the two and adjust the bone nut height accordingly by sanding the bottom as suggested

Also do you have a suggestion as to how I can mark out my neck alignment while it’s clamped down now so that when I glue it and then clamp down, I have a guide to ensure it’s the same angle. Was thinking of drawing a line either side of the neck along the section where the neck and top of the veneer meet within the pocket area?


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Also do you have a suggestion as to how I can mark out my neck alignment while it’s clamped down now so that when I glue it and then clamp down, I have a guide to ensure it’s the same angle. Was thinking of drawing a line either side of the neck along the section where the neck and top of the veneer meet within the pocket area?

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Personally, I'd just do it all in one go when you're ready to set the neck. At least that's how I did it (only one set neck build fwiw).
My point is, I did it all just before I glued it, rather than marking it and having any significant time pass in between marking and setting. Probably makes no difference, but I didn't trust marks that weren't "fresh" as well as having fresh mental focus.

While the strings were on, I marked it out by first applying painter's tape where my pencil lines would go (a sharp mechanical pencil can scratch a line in the veneer or finish) then drew the lines on the tape with a steel rule. FTR I did have some coats of Tru Oil on the body before I set the neck so there was no risk of lifting any colour when I took off the tape.
Once the alignment was marked correctly, took off the strings, glued up the heel and pocket, set the neck accordingly.

Simon has done heaps more set necks than me, so I'm sure he'll have some solid advice.

Alignment? I just glued them in. :o

I suppose it's all down to how wobbly the neck is from side to side in its pocket. I've never had any noticeable wobble. I've done rough alignment checks when I first got the kits (though not proper neck angle checks). On my GSM-1, the T-O-M bridge holes were so out that an alignment check wouldn't have worked anyway.

But as McCreed says, tape on the body first and mark that if you are drawing lines.

I'd use a piece of normal string rather than guitar string just to run along the line of the neck when you've just clamped it for gluing. As you've currently got strings on, you could put a bit of tape on each end of the fretboard and mark their current position. If you leave the bridge in place for the moment. Then you can quickly use the string along the neck to double check everything lines up.

I wouldn't leave any strings on when glueing the neck in place.

Thanks Simon, Mcreed for the advice. Still a few steps to go before I glue in the neck, but at least I’ve got an idea how the setup will be, thanks for all the help

Hi Vivek
Before gluing your neck I would try and clean your binding. It is major pain as kept on sanding through the neck finish and had to restain a few times to get a clean edge and then the truoil bleed onto it.

My best result was obtained using Tamiya modeling tape 6mm thick as this creates a really nice clean edge with the binding vs masking tape. Before you do your top coat cover your binding with tape and seal your finish then remove the tape as this will avoid bleeding. And paint on your first coat of top coat.


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Originally Posted by mrpearson

Hi Vivek
Before gluing your neck I would try and clean your binding. It is major pain as kept on sanding through the neck finish and had to restain a few times to get a clean edge and then the truoil bleed onto it.

My best result was obtained using Tamiya modeling tape 6mm thick as this creates a really nice clean edge with the binding vs masking tape. Before you do your top coat cover your binding with tape and seal your finish then remove the tape as this will avoid bleeding. And paint on your first coat of top coat.


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Hi mrpearson,

Thanks for the advice, I’ve got a few things to do before I can glue in the neck, so the plan is

- Change the nut to the bone nut I ordered
- got to sand down the tops of the extra Shims as well as it is sticking out of the pocket
- check action again
- finish applying a few more layers of shellac on the neck and body
- stain or darken the fret board

I will then scrape the bindings (have ordered a scalpel from eBay) and once done will spray a few layers of Polyurethane in a spray can on the body and neck separately, then will apply wipe on poly to build the layers, I don’t think I need to worry about the bindings at this stage as I’m using a gloss clear poly as a top coat. After this, I will then glue in the neck.

That’s the plan at this stage…

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...and once done will spray a few layers of Polyurethane in a spray can on the body and neck separately, then will apply wipe on poly to build the layers, I don’t think I need to worry about the bindings at this stage as I’m using a gloss clear poly as a top coat. After this, I will then glue in the neck.

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When you spray the poly, just be sure mask off the neck pocket and heel where they will mate when the neck is inserted. You want the glue adhering to bare timber on both faces.

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Originally Posted by McCreed

When you spray the poly, just be sure mask off the neck pocket and heel where they will mate when the neck is inserted. You want the glue adhering to bare timber on both faces.

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Thank Mccreed , Definitely going to tape then up as well as the fret board etc.

while on the topic, I got two shims I’d need to fit in the pocket, my thoughts are to glue them in & clamp down one by one leaving 24 hours between each shim to set.

then glue in the neck.

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Originally Posted by vivek_rc

Thank Mccreed , Definitely going to tape then up as well as the fret board etc.

while on the topic, I got two shims I’d need to fit in the pocket, my thoughts are to glue them in & clamp down one by one leaving 24 hours between each shim to set.

then glue in the neck.

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That’s what I did. Glued my shim and left clamped for 24 hrs. It was a few more days before I set the neck.


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I'd glue the two shims together first, then glue the shim into the pocket, and then glue the neck on.

I wrap cling-film over the wooden blocks I use when clamping, if there's a chance of glue oozing out and sticking the block to the clamped item.

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

I'd glue the two shims together first, then glue the shim into the pocket, and then glue the neck on.

I wrap cling-film over the wooden blocks I use when clamping, if there's a chance of glue oozing out and sticking the block to the clamped item.

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Hi Simon, Thanks for the great tip, will do just that!

Hi Guys

After a break, have gotten back into it. I’ve glued the two shims together and have clamped them down.

Also started the process of installing the bone nut. I’ve also removed the nut and it popped out without too much damage

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a044655d3d.jpg

There is still some dried up glue residue on the base, I’ll try to sand it or file it off. Any tips on installing the nut? Just been following some YouTube videos

Also looking at some advice, at the base of my neck pocket with the shim
In place, there is a bit of a gap. One I’ve glued in the neck with the shim, was thinking of making a mixture of sawdust and the shellac I’ve been using, to use as a wood filler to fill in the gap and then sand to smoothen. Any advice if that’s ok ?


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...e44c2388af.jpg

I'd consider staining the shims the same as the back and neck, then drop filling with CA, then continue with more coats of your clear.

Looking good Vivek.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by McCreed

I'd consider staining the shims the same as the back and neck, then drop filling with CA, then continue with more coats of your clear.

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thanks Mcreed, I’ve put in an order for some CA glue,

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Originally Posted by mrpearson

Looking good Vivek.


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Still a long way to go! [emoji38]

Ah, rookie mistake. I glued the two shims on the wrong side. I’ve had to
Flip it to fit, now the 1mm shim
Is on the bottom. However the angle of the neck is still relatively the same, so I think I might just use this, rather than make a new shim. There is a bit more of a gap in the between the neck joint and the shims.

But I’ve to check, but I think my pickups might not fit as the neck heel is higher. Have to test mount them.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ee8261536c.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...280a9a558f.jpg

Also dry fitted the new nut, it’s shallower than the original

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f9c049b33b.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...da6c12d366.jpg

Decided to flip the shim as it was, and sand It down on the side to conform to the pocket. It fits better..

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2895b62a3b.jpg


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Back again with another update, still very slow…have just glued the shim to the body. Once it’s set, will fit the neck again, sting it up for a check and then glue in the bone nut. Going very slow but it’s ok.[emoji3]. One things I’ve learnt from this build is how to make shims, have now made some diy shims for my telecaster build and a cheap strat, world of difference in terms of playability!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3b400d9243.jpg

getting there Vivek. I know the frustration of slow progress and patience. I am watching my gloss Tru Oil cure and waiting for my locking bridge posts to arrive. (did you buy these as well and have yours arrived yet?) The posts arrived in Sydney from China on the 18th of Jan and have not moved since (amazon says delivery is due on the 8th of Feb so hopefully I can finish it up next week). But it is forcing me to be patient and let my top coat cure for at least 2 weeks.

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Originally Posted by mrpearson

getting there Vivek. I know the frustration of slow progress and patience. I am watching my gloss Tru Oil cure and waiting for my locking bridge posts to arrive. (did you buy these as well and have yours arrived yet?) The posts arrived in Sydney from China on the 18th of Jan and have not moved since (amazon says delivery is due on the 8th of Feb so hopefully I can finish it up next week). But it is forcing me to be patient and let my top coat cure for at least 2 weeks.

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Thanks mrpearson, yes I did receive the locking bridge post that I ordered from Amazon.

I still have to apply more Shellac and then spray on the poly, then apply wipe on poly, build it up, sand and that’s before I glue it. Still a long way to go for me [emoji3]but all good. By the way, would you have a picture of how you clamped down the neck to the body when you were gluing them together? Just to give me an idea.

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Originally Posted by vivek_rc

Thanks mrpearson, yes I did receive the locking bridge post that I ordered from Amazon.

I still have to apply more Shellac and then spray on the poly, then apply wipe on poly, build it up, sand and that’s before I glue it. Still a long way to go for me [emoji3]but all good. By the way, would you have a picture of how you clamped down the neck to the body when you were gluing them together? Just to give me an idea.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3cd3a93049.jpg


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There is cardboard and a piece of veneer in the bottom as well. I believe best practice for fretboard is a piece of wood with fret cut outs vs cardboard.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mrpearson

There is cardboard and a piece of veneer in the bottom as well. I believe best practice for fretboard is a piece of wood with fret cut outs vs cardboard.


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Thanks for the photo mate, I’ve got 4 clamps just my shim Now, not sure if I’m going overboard!! I think I will also go down the cardboard or thick cloth route over the frets as well


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Looking great @vivek_rc.

I am thinking that I will glue up first, before staining and finishing.

Is it best practice to glue in the neck after finishing?

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Originally Posted by dbeltrami

Looking great @vivek_rc.

I am thinking that I will glue up first, before staining and finishing.

Is it best practice to glue in the neck after finishing?

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Thanks mate, because I am using shellac, I find it easier and more manageable to stain/French polish the body and neck separately, and then cleanup binding etc before glueing the neck.

Also, I will be spraying on poly and then applying wipe on poly. So for me it would be easier to spray the neck and body while they were separate and then glue it. After they are glued, I would still need to do some touch up on the finish. Knowing me when clamping the neck down to be glued I would mess the finish for sure in some areas.

So I guess in terms of “best practice” it comes down to what kind of finish you are going for and how you go
About applying it, I think it can be managed either way.

@ vivek:

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Thanks for the photo mate, I’ve got 4 clamps just my shim Now, not sure if I’m going overboard!! I think I will also go down the cardboard or thick cloth route over the frets as well

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One clamp centred over the fretboard should be plenty IMO. That's all I used on my PRS.

Also, for clamping, this what use:

Attachment 42520

It ain't pretty, but it does the job...
I've been threatening to make a "nice one" with a bit of hardwood for a few years, but just never seem to get around to it :o.

@ mrpearson:

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Also, I will be spraying on poly and then applying wipe on poly.

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May I ask why you're using both spray and wipe on?

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Originally Posted by McCreed

@ vivek:

One clamp centred over the fretboard should be plenty IMO. That's all I used on my PRS.

Also, for clamping, this what use:

Attachment 42520

It ain't pretty, but it does the job...
I've been threatening to make a "nice one" with a bit of hardwood for a few years, but just never seem to get around to it :o.

@ mrpearson:

May I ask why you're using both spray and wipe on?

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[mention]McCreed [/mention] Actually that spray on poly comment was me, it’s based on advice I got in an earlier comment, that if I applied wipe on poly direct onto the flame veneer, it would smug the colors up, so advice was the apply spray it on first, and I thought to build up the layers with wipe on poly.

I might make a block for the clamp like what you’ve done,


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Originally Posted by vivek_rc

[mention]McCreed [/mention] Actually that spray on poly comment was me, it’s based on advice I got in an earlier comment, that if I applied wipe on poly direct onto the flame veneer, it would smug the colors up, so advice was the apply spray it on first, and I thought to build up the layers with wipe on poly.

I might make a block for the clamp like what you’ve done,


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Ah yes, I see that was you now... I'm easily confused!

Also that makes sense with the spray/wipe-on combination. I've not done a stain burst so it didn't pop into my head straight away, and the only wipe-on finishes I've done (Tru Oil & Poly) were single colour so it moving the colour wasn't really an issue.