Cultural imperialism
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Cultural imperialism
Bet you are stoked!
Awesome!!
I also love that this thread got to 5 pages before you even started the build :)
Yep, I'm itching to get started right now haha. Initial impressions are that the quality seems to be pretty good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy40
Haha I noticed the same thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
Yeah, the layout seems sensible and the screenprinted component labels really help reduce errors. The tinned-through holes can make desoldering components tedious though, so here's hoping you don't need to do that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Woltz
Board populated. Just need to solder switch, pots, led and wires then I can test.
https://i.imgur.com/YI3SvTP.jpg
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Looks good. I always find the off-board wiring the least exciting part of a build. Do you have a mini-board for the footswitch, or will you be direct wiring it?
Also I like the third hand. A lot of mine is broken, but it's amazing what I can do with just one clip. I also like the insulation on yours. I have some heatshrink tubing that I could use on my clip.
Be sure to save some of the longer lead off-cuts. You will need them for making links if you do any stripboard builds.
Wiring direct but I have the wiring diagram so shouldn't be too difficult. Haha it's just electrical tape because I had nothing else. Heatshrink would be good.Quote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
I'm on the fence about soldering the pots and switch on before the enclosure gets here on this one. On the Gale I had 3 pots and if the holes are slightly out when I drill there is enough flexibility in the pot legs to get the pots to line up with the holes. But on this one if it didn't line up properly I'd have to desolder and resolder because there is no flexibility with the switch. But without those components attached I can't test it out haha. First world dilemma.
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You can see in my Phase 45 thread I made a enclosure jig out of thin MDF. I drilled holes using the enclosure template. It helps hold things steady but also lets me test the template itself - are the pots close but not too close etc.
Yep I might do that. I must've missed that in your thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
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Just don't make my mistake. My DC jacks have the thread on the inside of the case, so they need to be soldered into the enclosure with the nut already threaded over the wires. I completely forgot this last night and soldered the jack into the MDF! So I had to cut it off after testing. Still need to clean up the solder so I can box the circuit. Fortunately I have enough length on the wires so I don't need to change anything else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Woltz
Yep mine are the same type as you've got. Not really much of a way to avoid it if you want to test outside the enclosure and you want to have the leads soldered during testing.
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Normally during testing I leave the DC jack leads unsoldered and use alligator leads to hook up a 9v battery to the tinned ends.Quote:
Originally Posted by Woltz
I'd do that if I had a set here haha. I think a trip to Jaycar may happen soon for that and a few other things.Quote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
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I’m stoked to find this thread here! I’m considering a compressor for my first build and would love a 3-4 knob Ross-based comp. I had a Keeley 4c before I sold my guitars and really liked it.
Does anyone know much about the Aurora mods people talk about? I don’t see that in the documentation (maybe pots vs switches, or added features?)
Pedal Parts Australia sells CA3080 chips, but they are expensive (but at 10AUD, the exchange rate will work in your favor). They also sell Ross compressor kits, but they are 2 knob versions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Garfield
There are also ways to use the cheaper LM13700 with PCB designed for the CA3080.
Sorry I edited my previous post a million times while I was learning about this. I found that Aion has a V2 aurora board specifically for the LM13700. I’m about to hit 6 weeks waiting for my guitar from Australia so I think I’ll hold off on international shipping for awhile.
G'day Joe, Aion have an old version (which is the one I'm building) that fits a 1590B enclosure and uses the CA3080 and they have a new version for a 125B enclosure that uses the LM13700 as you found. I'm building the old version with the Janglebox mods as per the guide on their website (https://www.dropbox.com/s/d7m5f9rbe6...ation.pdf?dl=1).
Small Bear is closed for orders at the moment because of Covid. You can browse their site but you can't order anything.
Alternate supplier for CA3080 - http://www.worldwideelectroniccomponents.com.au/
G’Day, Woltz! Thank you.
Are you making any substitutions to the capacitors - like different materials or anything?
I did it exactly as the build instructions said for the Janglebox variant. There was the option to use electrolytic or tantalum for a couple caps. I chose to use tantalum.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Garfield
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Got it all wired up to test and had no sound. I was thinking it was going to be a nightmare to find the issue but fortunately the build instructions include the schematic so I was able to look at the schematic and I realised I'd missed a jumper.
So after a quick solder here it is. I'll tidy up the offboard wiring when eventually the enclosures arrive.
Having tested it out, my initial impression is that I like it the most on the brightest position of the 3 way switch.
https://i.imgur.com/YcsRFwC.jpg
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Looks good. You will need to desolder the DC jack, since it needs to be inserted into the enclosure with the nut threaded over the wires before soldering (I did the same thing recently).
As for no sound, that happens to me too. On the buffer, I hooked it up to test: no sound. Checked all the leads, no sound. I had forgotten to put the IC into the socket!
Yeh I'm not bothered about desoldering the DC Jack. I already had to desolder the LED because I put it in backwards lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
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I'm now thinking after seeing the wiring mocked up that I may get a mini-board. It would make things tidier. Just need to work out the wiring to retain the LED on the main board.Quote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
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If the board is designed with the power LED on the board, they probably have a particular wiring arrangement in mind for the 3PDT. The way I wire my switches up means the board receives power whether the switch is on or off. The switch just controls whether the input goes to the board or direct to output (and it grounds the board output in the bypass position). That probably wouldn't work with your board, since the power LED would likely stay lit regardless of the bypass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Woltz
The Pedal Parts Australia 3PDT board has the LED and CLR on the mini board. It might work with your setup just by leaving those out. I have one in my compressor, so I could test if it powers down the main board in the bypass position (assuming that's what your circuit is expecting).
For myself, although I find wiring up the off-board stuff a bit boring, I don't mind too much if it's not perfectly tidy since I am not looking inside the box much anyway. If I was building pedals to sell I would probably put more care into making the box look neat.
I've ordered one from Pedal Parts.
Here is the schematic for the main board for the Aurora.
https://i.imgur.com/4FoYO9X.jpg
I can't find a schematic for the mini-board, I can only see the trace in the images and their wiring diagrams but I'm thinking that this might work.
https://i.imgur.com/KJK9aqD.jpg
Is the purpose of the mini board to save a few wires? Just curious...
It looks like Aurora V2 has the mini board - maybe you can “borrow” the schematic?
Woltz, I think your wiring will work. I didn't realise your main PCB had a switch input for connecting the LED cathode to ground in the on position. The left hand LED hole is for the cathode of a single colour LED, so it looks good to me. I got one of the bi-color LEDs with my orange squeezer kit, but I don't like the idea of an always on LED. I then have to remember which colour is on and which is off. Plus the brightness was really different between the two colours.
It won't reduce the number of wires (other than a couple of the jumper wires on the switch) but it will allow me to tidy things up by getting rid of the star grounding on the input jack. It's not a necessity, I just like all my wiring (both guitars and pedals) to be as tidy as possible because it makes it easier to find faults if there are any.Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Garfield
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I'll try it when it gets here and report back haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
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I think that star grounding is the wires I was talking about. I'm looking forward to seeing the change, and learning from you! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Woltz
Is your pedal noisy at all, in any of the treble switch positions or anything?
I don't use star grounds in any pedals. So long as you avoid a loop you should be OK. In recent stripboard builds I have followed this scheme from Tag Board Effects. The ground follows one neat line, no loop. You can sort of see it here:
Attachment 35120
Compared to the diagram, I don't wire the LED directly to the footswitch. I make a tiny board from stripboard and solder the CLR, LED, and wires to that. It's a bit hard to see in the photo since it's over the main board. I like this approach since it lets me position the LED anywhere in the enclosure.
So I'm still waiting on my enclosures. They were shipped a month ago from Tayda in Thailand and the tracking doesn't even show it landing in Australia yet. Contemplating ordering a couple of enclosures from PedalParts because they now have stock again.
On a more positive note the footswitch pcb has arrived so I will look to get that setup ready to go and test it out.
Great. I need some more enclosures too. For my phaser I used one of the low-grade enclosures from Pedal Parts because that was all they had. In hindsight that was not the best choice for a polished metal finish.
Enclosures are finally here! I will look at drilling them on the weekend. Not sure about the graphics because it's so cold at the moment that spraying lacquer isn't ideal.
I am looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Have you tested the circuit itself yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by Woltz
And yeah, it's not a great time in Canberra for painting. I managed to get the neck for my tele done, but only by using a heater in the shed.
Not yet, I'll solder the switch onto the mini pcb on the weekend and test it out.
So I drilled the holes in the enclosure today after a trip to the big green shed to get the drill bit I needed. And I wasn't paying attention and forgot to put something soft down on my mdf drill press table and the result was this.
https://i.imgur.com/9JLdz0b.jpg
So I took that as a sign that this enclosure doesn't want finishing. So I went ahead and installed the electronics. After a couple of issues with everything fitting and some tweaking it's all nicely tucked in there.
https://i.imgur.com/RhxHmhw.jpg
Ready to test.
https://i.imgur.com/MNgZRZY.jpg
Now here's my comments after testing. With the Sustain knob at zero the pedal sounds alright. I can turn the Level knob all the way up without any issues. Once the Threshold gets above around the 2 o'clock position the noise starts creeping in.
The attack switch with my current guitars for me is virtually useless. It functions without any problems but the setting with the most treble is by far the nicest and I don't anticipate that I'd ever use the other two options. If I was building it again I'd get rid of the switch altogether and just run it with the cap value that I like.