Yeah, not waiting for summer. Might never come.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Apparently not far as we have some of the same local shops.
I know I can get some naughty oil from the gunshop in Clayton.
Printable View
Yeah, not waiting for summer. Might never come.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Apparently not far as we have some of the same local shops.
I know I can get some naughty oil from the gunshop in Clayton.
I guess the question is how much should I sand back before I apply the oil. There are some spots where the DT has taken. Looks like in certain lines of the grain. Maybe I can leave those there as filler?
Sam I'd give it a light steel wool and apply the TO to a small area and make sure it doesn't react. I'm 99.5% sure you will have no reaction with the DT
Attachment 3409Attachment 3410
First coat the morning after. Applied in a room heated to 20 degrees and left to hang. Dry to the touch after 3 hours. Kept a wet look. A couple of streaks, but that's my application keeping it thin and not overlapping.
So I've applied about 8 coats of TO to the body and neck. It's dry to the touch in a few hours even without heating the room so I was able to get two coats in some days.
Has a nice glossy finish, but not smooth.
Attachment 3517
So, I was wondering what to do on the last coat. I've been doing the steel wool in between and even a wet and dry 1500 on one bumpy spot.
Reading about, people talk about all sorts of things like rubbing it with steel wool or "micro-mesh" (anyone know where to get that?).
On my LP I used auto cutting compound, as it was an auto acrylic top coat.
0000 steel wool seems to leave a very scratchy looking surface. I was hoping for a smooth matte if not gloss.
I'll probably apply a couple more coats of TO yet, then wait a couple of weeks before trying to smooth and polish it up.
I've also still got the Dingotone Wax. I expect to apply that to the body, unless that's a bad idea with TO?
Also, do you wax the back of the neck? (seems to me it would be better unwaxed, except the fretboard perhaps.)
Been applying thin coats when I get a chance and leaving it a day to cure before dealing with runs. Getting less runs as I learn how to wipe the coat on thin. Probably done more coats than is strictly necessary because of rubbing them back in between each time to smooth it out.
good stuff Sam so you must be almost finished clear coats and ready to polish after a long final curing period ?
When I can finally get a few coats in a row that i don't pick a lumpy run off. Then it'll be time to let it hang and cure while I prepare the electronics.Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Wondering if there's any reason I shouldn't start installing the shielding after a couple of days curing.
Sam should be able to start installing shielding after 2-3 days curing, just make sure the tru oil has hardened enough.
What should I polish the TO with?Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I have a thimble of dingo wax still.
Oh, and what is a "long" curing? 2 weeks, 4 weeks, longer?