George's ST-1M Build

[Ghayter_27]

Hi all,

I have finally managed to borrow some 80, 180 and 240 grit sandpaper from my schools tech shed plus a cork block (I will attach photos). Does anyone have any tips on sanding around the contours of the strat style body and sanding techniques, as the last thing I want is to mess up the guitar due to an avoidable error. Also, what would be the max grain to sand to while ensuring a good tooth for the lacquer to grip. Can't wait to get started!

Thanks,
George

[wazkelly]

Hi George, hopefully you can get your hands on a bit more sandpaper than that shown in the photo? It is pretty cheap to buy per sheet at the Green Shed and reckon you need at least 1 x 80, 2 x 120, 2 x 180 & 2 x 240 - maybe 1 x 320 if you feel the need but 240 is usually plenty good enough. You should be able cut 3 pieces to then fold around the cork block from one sheet.

80 grit can take lots off so take things easy as you only want to knock off the obvious rough bits. The machine marks from where the body was cut are best done with 120 in the direction of the grain, and once they have disappeared you can then revert to sanding in the direction of the contours.

I am presently on build # 5 and sanded up to 320 on #1 & #2, backed off to just 240 on #3 & # 4 and on latest one I stopped after a thorough job done over a few days with 120. It is a Tele where I have rounded the slab sided edges off similar to what you have on a Strat and that was all done using 120.

Why did I stop after 120? To allow more stain to soak in.....400 is too much as the timber can end up polished and resistant to staining, 320 is almost as bad as 400, 240 is the sweet spot and particularly so on maple necks. As my latest build was experimental and using organic products I knew that the finish could be smoothed out later rather than overdoing the initial prep.

Here is a couple of shots taken yesterday where the top coat was applied with wet & dry 600, then 1200 and now 2000 done over several sessions before moving on to the next finer grit.


Only posted these as an indication of what can be done when thinking outside the square. If going for a solid spray painted finish, the body will need to be as smooth as glass, maybe 320, as if it gets too smooth the paint has nothing to hold on to.

[Simon Barden]

If you are doing an all-lacquer finish, then it's common to start off with a sanding sealer. This is simply clear lacquer that's heavily diluted with solvent, so that is soaks into the wood. If you've got your own spray kit then make it up yourself, otherwise you can buy it in spray cans - though this normally has some light filler in as well.

If you are staining the wood first, then do this before applying any sanding sealer, or the stain won't take.

As Waz said, you don't want to goo too mad with the initial sanding levels. Get rid of any manufacturing marks and get the surface flat, but you can leave it reasonably rough to help the finish key-in. It's the colour and clear coats that you'll need to spend more time on with the finer grades of paper.

If you get dust or hairs stuck to the finish, these should come off with a very light sand - but only after the finish has hardened underneath - not just on the surface - otherwise the dust grains can drag a lot on the still-wet under-finish with them leaving sizeable pits to fill.

[Ghayter_27]

Thanks for the info guys. I started sanding with 80 today with the info fresh in mind. Most rough bits are gone and will finish them off soon. I don't have a Green Shed near me, will they sell such grits at Mitre 10? I think I'll leave the machine marks until I can get my hands on some 120

PS: That tele is gorgeous, waz, best of luck with it!

[wazkelly]

Hi George, any decent hardware store should stock better quality sandpapers and reckon your local Mitre 10 might have some of these assorted grits that come in a pack of 15 for $2.00 - https://www.mitre10.com.au/sandpaper...pk15-buy-right

If you want better stuff you can order online from The Sandpaper Man as this is where I have bought the micro mesh guitarist kits from...https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/micro-mesh-kits/

The micro mesh kits come in handy for the final finishing off once you have completed all coats of finish. In fact it would be handy to also get some 1200, 1500 & 2000 wet & dry sand paper for doing the sanding between coats and these grits are also the ones to use leading up to the first 4000 micro mesh pad.

Hopes this helps in some way.

Cheers, Waz