JM-1 First ever build by Ado

[Ado]

Hi everyone,

Attempting a first ever build and have decided to tackle the Jazzmaster/Mustang hybrid, JM-1. Here's an unboxing pic:


A quick fit together to check it actually was a guitar:


2 things to note whilst unboxing:

1. there was a small indentation around the base of the body. Don't think this will be and issue as it should sand out. May have to get a bit exuberant to shape it but I see this as too much of a problem

2. One of the screws on the bridge has been stripped and is still not sitting flush:



I'm not sure this is going to be a huge problem though. The unit looks to be fairly sturdy and secure. Guess we'll see as we go along.

My next stage is, of course, lots and lots of sanding....

I am currently thinking of finishing this guitar in a Daphne Blue Nitro Lacquer and having matching colour headstock.

Hope this is a lot of fun..... and it doesn't take too long before I get to play it!!!

[FrankenWashie]

Mm lovely offset goodness.....good score. Look forward to your diary.

[stan]

cool project
The hardware can be a bit hit and miss sometimes, find some quality wood screws of the same type and replace the lot

[Simon Barden]

It's not a wood screw, Stan. It's a short machine screw. It's going to be awkward getting that out. Can you undo it at all? Try a bit of oil or WD40 in there before you try.

[zeromick]

I love offsets!

If you get stuck with the bridge let me know, I've got that exact one laying around I didnt use from a JM-1 kit

[dave.king1]

Locktite Freeze & Release is the gift from the gods when it comes to removing stubborn nuts & bolts, mainly corroded rather than cross threaded or stripped though.

A can in the shed is always good to have around for general maintenance stuff anyway.

[wokkaboy]

Hi Ado welcome to the forum and cool kit and plans to start your new hobby (addiction haha)
Can you get some locking pliers on the stripped screw head and try and remove it after spraying down the thread with WD-40 or Locktite Freeze and release ? Give that a go and if no luck Zeromick has offered to supply another bridge or email Adam @ PBG should be able to replace it.
With the dent in the body please post a photo might be able to use a hot iron/wet cloth to remove it. If it's more than 1mm deep then it will take alot of sanding to remove it !

[Simon Barden]

As Ado is currently going for a solid colour finish, if it's too deep to steam out, he could simply fill the dent and paint over it.

[Ado]

OK So the steps I have taken so far are:

1. Sanding the bejesus out of the Body 180 grit to get some machine marks off, 240 grit down to 400 grit
2. Filling the grain with timber mate (made into a slurry and let harden for more than 24 hours)
3. More sanding to 400 to make nice and smooth
4. Painting with a spray primer (2 coats)

Issues I currently trying to solve:
After I sprayed on the primer I noticed cracks starting to appear in the edge(see photo). Before spraying I had thought these just lighter scratch marks in the wood.



Currently I am thinking of trying to scratch off the primer and filling these cracks with timbermate (maybe trying a bit harder to force the paste in) then sand and primer again.

Actually the primer I was given ended up being orange as well (thought it was going to be white but didn't think to check before given it a good old spray). Am not sure if I will put up with this and change colour (I was thinking a yellow before I started) or strip back and get the correct colour primer for Daphne Blue.

[wazkelly]

Looks like it needs a bit more filler and reckon you probably just need to sand back those areas a bit, apply timber mate, sand that back and then reapply more primer rather than sand everything off. If you don't like the primer colour what difference will it make to subsequent top coats? Seems like a lot of work to sand back and go again.