First build, HB-4S bass

[LLamalice]

Hi all,

I just started a first build... a nice Hofner-like violin bass HB-4S with a spalted mapple top. I think this particular one as some beautiful grain in it.

I'm starting slowly, taking time to read the threads on the forums. I started to sand the body and the neck. I also want to change the shape of the head to make it more symetric.

About sanding, I am afraid that the laminated spalted mapple top is very thin, as Gavin1393 put it in his 17-05-2013 (2:04 am) entry in the "How to build your Pit Bull guitar" forum. Therefore, I am afraid to sand it too much, even if I' doing it manually. Some spots of the underneath layer are actually showing...

As you can see on the pictures, some more sanding is requirerd... Although, is it advised ???



Thanks for your feedback.

Larry

[wazkelly]

Don't sand any more as it looks way too thin already.

Looks like you might have a few small dents in the middle shot and some reckon a damp rag with an iron over the top brings them out. If not adding more coats of finish will eventually level things out.

Have you run a damp rag over the top yet to see if there are any surprises lurking in the background such as glue spots?

[Andy40]

I agree Waz, thats sanded thin. I would also check the glue spots (although there isn't usually any on spalts) I'd also be grain filling if you haven't done so already...

[LLamalice]

Thanks all for your remarks and advices.

I am planning to use a very light, natural dye on the top. Also, I wish to use a clear satin finish on it. Do you think that putting wood filler is as much necessary for satin finish than it is for a lacquer ?

Laurent

[depictedminds]

I would also agree with the grain filler.
It really depends on how grainy you want your finish. A bit of timer mate (In your case I'd probably say a darker timber mate) filling in those poppy grain parts might be nice.

if you are going timber mate (or something similar, water based filler) I've gone about 15% water / filler (so it's almost like mayo) and smoothed it over the top of spots and deep grain that I wanted to fill - then I rubbed that back with 400 or 00 wool to neaten it up. It depends on the colour you want the grain though.

If you're after the uneven surface of the grain (but still silky smooth) then It's probably not necessary.

At the very least, what you have at this very point is a very very pretty spalt.

[Andy40]

Hi Laurent,
If you don't use a grain filler you do run the risk that the dye/finish you put on will soak in more in places that others also you may have that uneven finish that depicted refers to.

Given that it is maple, however, its a lower risk as its less porous than other woods.