Will binding stick to wood filler? - Major screw up due to tools failure...HELP !!!

[Tweaky]

OK, I had the Dremel out about a hour ago, attached to a Stewart Mac precision router base with edge guide.

The job was to route the headstock on my ES-3 build for some binding.
I did a test run on some MDF to make sure I had it set at the correct depth, and testing it against some binding that I had made previously, all seemed good.

So I put the neck in the vise and started to route, first cut was OK, then it all went horribly wrong.
Each time I started to cut, one or another of the bit's of the Stewart mac rig would either loosen so far it caused the wrong depth to be cut, or fall apart.
The router bit for the job [also bought from SM] just causes too much vibration when cutting hardwood, and causes the base & guide to fall apart while using it....it's down right dangerous as well.

I'm beyond angry, I think the correct adjective for my current mood would be LIVID

Since this has basically made a dog's breakfast of my necks headstock, the only possible way to salvage the neck that I can think of is to try and even things out with some Timbermate wood filler.

I just want to know if I'm able to get things into some sort of overall evenness with the wood filler, would using the correct adhesive, would the binding stick to the filler?
Also what adhesive would be best for the job.

My worry is that the Timbermate seems rather chalky, and layering it on relatively thickly to rectify the routing debacle, might make the eventually bound headstock easily liable to damage if receiving a knock, with the result being the binding coming loose, if not falling off.
This also would effect any finish I put over.

Any ideas on the best way to salvage this?

[stan]

i have one of those router bases and i agree, they shake themselves undone....

timbermate should fix your problem, and superglue will glue binding, and i thought that it should stick to timbermate. test on some scrap like you did your routing to see.

acetone also sticks binding to timber, dont know if it works on timbermate

[pablopepper]

Wow, unbalanced router bits can be very dangerous, and the base coming apart is quite worrying. Sounds like a bad design.

Stan, the acetone works as an adhesive because it breaks down the binding making it sticky. I see no reason why it wouldn't work on to timbermate.

[wokkaboy]

hey Tweaky, not good, can you please post a photo to show us how much filler is needed ?

I agree with Stan I would do a test on some scrap wood. I think after time the timbermate may break its bond with the maple if it got a hard knock in that area

[Tweaky]

OK, thanks for that, I'll give it a try .....I'm just glad I hadn't glued in the mother of pearl inlay into the neck [I've dyed the Fingerboard Black and taken out the original fret markers, and frets]...this was supposed to be the final stage of major neck alteration.

It's the first time I've used that router base.
It needs a redesign to have locking parts, not mere finger tightening knobs.
Seems the last review at the SM site had the same problem.
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...1.html#reviews

After calming down, I've had a look at the straight edge attachment, and it seems my router bit slipped into that part, shearing of around 2mm of brass below where the rolling guide is screwed in.....that was the last bit that fell off before I gave up in fear of losing a digit or two [Now I know why]

It seems a good bit of kit till you actually use it [far better than Dremels own plastic rubbish], but it really needs to have better instructions [maybe warnings now I've experienced using it], and a better way of securing it's parts together

EDIT: OK, I'll take and post some photos in a few minutes ....I'm starting to think it's pretty much a lost cause after further inspection, and either better off trying to get a replacement neck [but my understanding is that the necks for the ES-3 are made specifically for each body, so not a option] or a new kit, sans parts.

[dingobass]

Wow.. never had ang issues with my SM router.
The excess vibrations you experienced would be Caused by a few things.
Router bit is worn, causing it to run unevenly.
Tried to cut more than 1/2mm deep at a time.
Dremel chuck is unbalanced.

As for the timbermate question, not sure if it would work.. never tried to use it the way you asked.
Might pay to harden it up with some thin CA glue when it is dry.

[vh2580]

First time I used mine I had depth issues from it loosening and cutting deeper . I started nipping it up on the knurled grip with pliers to give a little more bite. Haven't had an issue since and use it regularly, but agree that there should be more info around potential usage issues and maybe larger diameter knurled grips on the top so you can get good finger torsion to lock it up. Very hard to get enough grip to get them tight by hand.

[wokkaboy]

sounds very dangerous Tweaky, glad you weren't injured it could have been very messy.

sounds like the last review on the SM site the bloke had the same problems.

I thought about one of those jigs but will steer clear now. Will find out what DB uses he has a small Bosch trim router with the correct bearing on the router bit to give a nice clean channel

[vh2580]

With the headstock could you trim off some of the width and replace with new timber. Have seen it done on the forum before. That way you would still have the integrity of timber when you re route

[andrewdosborne]

With the headstock could you trim off some of the width and replace with new timber. Have seen it done on the forum before. That way you would still have the integrity of timber when you re route

Feel your pain Tweaky. See 9:28 in the following video. Not sure if this is an option to fix the damage as vh2580 has mentioned

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbU1R4KDymw