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Thread: hi, first build TLA-1

  1. #1

    hi, first build TLA-1

    hi my name is Derek, i have been playing guitars on and off for a long time. Really wanted to build one and after lots of you tube vids and reading on this forum and the pitbull website, i ordered a guitar.
    I ordered a TLA-1, my reason behind this was being my first guitar build i thought i'd start off with what seemed like the easiest.
    So it arrived and i got stuck into opening the box. my first thoughts were... i like it. The neck seem to fit ok.
    but i do have some concerns that i would like to ask you about.
    the measurement from the nut to the 12 fret is 322mm, and the distance from the 12 fret to the bridge is 331 ( i know that the bridge is adjustable ) but if you see in the photo i would like to make up the 9mm were the gap is between the scratch plate and the bridge so its fits snug.
    Now here is where i want some advice... the bridge pick up is hard up against the neck side of the router hole. for me to make up the 9mm close the gap with the scratch plate and set the intonation i would need to router the hole more.

    In regards to the finish on the guitar i would like to just go with a clear natural look but obviously protected. i would like the neck to be smooth and fast.

    Really enjoy looking through this web site, I'm sure this will not be my last build.

    Thanks everyone, looking forward to getting as much info as possible.
    Cheers
    Derek
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  2. #2
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Great first kit Derek. I have a build diary going for a TLA-1R and went into this issue a bit. I was considering routing the bridge pup cavity to move the whole bridge closer to the neck for intonation. In the end I changed/upgraded to a Wilkinson compensated bridge, which is shorter and used the Pit bull saddle screws, which are longer. That closed the over all gap for intonation and I didn't need to re-rout the bridge pup cavity. The Wilkinson allowed me to drill a string through as well.

    However, I did need to plug the old bridge mount holes and re-drill those for the Wilkinson.

    I am a complete novice when it comes to wood working and it took a lot of time, practice on scrap and measuring and re-measuring but it was worth it.
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  3. #3
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    Nice one to start with Derek..

    I like tru oil on my necks, i am using Min Wax wipe on poly on my latest build. I tend to move around a bit with types of finishes, i like to try them all.

  4. #4
    hi andy, thanks for the reply mate.
    just read through your build. looking good.
    that grain in your ash is amazing. makes the grain i have look boring. haha think i might paint it now...
    in regards to the bridge, being the first build i think I'm going to just use what I've got in the kit and try to make it work.
    i will probably router the hole forward about 7mm and leave just a smaller gap.
    cheers mate

  5. #5
    hi tony, thanks for the reply. yeah i like the look of that tru oil on the neck.
    how many coats do you apply? also did you sand with the 0000 steel wool in between each coat?

  6. #6
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    stratto have a look at my facebook ryo guitars near the top, you will see what i did for the neck on my Baritone.

    I really need to update that page, too much going on.

  7. #7
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Oct 2015
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    Good thoughts Derek. I reckon the grain on that looks pretty cool. Props to you for considering to go natural, you could always try and pop the grain or stain for a bit of interest.

    I painted my ST-1 build and now I kind of regret it. Wish I stained it but anyways Its all up to you, you can always ask the guitar while you are sanding...you'll be spending a bit of time together.

    7mm seems a bit long? I thought it was about 5mm from memory. Maybe ask Wokkaboy (hes done a few) as I didn't end up doing it, in the end.
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  8. #8
    Have a question for you guys re this guitar. Are all teles meant to have the holes for the strings to go through the body? Or can you thread them through the back of the bridge plate?
    Thanks

  9. #9
    Overlord of Music Andy40's Avatar
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    Oct 2015
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    Hi Derek, I just saw this I posted my 2 cents on your other thread.
    Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
    Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
    Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
    Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
    Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
    Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
    Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
    Current Build #8 - JBA-4
    Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
    Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
    Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
    Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
    Current Build #13 - GST-1
    Current Build #14 - FBM-1

  10. #10
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Aug 2015
    Location
    Caloundra West, Sunshine Coast Qld
    Posts
    6,631
    Hi Derek, to keep things simple you can string through the back of the bridge. That saves you having to drill through the body as that is not an easy looking job to do.

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