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Thread: DB's GR-1SF

  1. #1

    DB's GR-1SF

    Hey guys, long time viewer, first time poster. Just received my first kit in the mail the other week, and after a mockbuild, which looks awesome, I think I'm ready to sand, sand, and when I think I'm done, sand some more....

    My dream is this Gretsch Style, with the red cherry colour of a Gibson ES.

    I am hoping to come up with a name for the guitar, and get that custom made as a waterslide decal on the headstock, and found another company which can create decal of your name and signature, which I'll put on the pickguard. Any suggestions for a name of a cherry red guitar will be considered.

    I'll keep you posted and ask for help, which I'm sure I'll need.

  2. #2
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Hornsby Area, Sydney, NSW
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    3,951
    Welcome DB07!
    Current:
    GTH-1

    Completed:
    AST-1FB
    First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
    ES-5V
    Scratchie lapsteel
    Custom ST-1 12 String
    JBA-4
    TL-1TB
    Scratch Lapsteel
    Meinl DIY Cajon
    Cigar Box lap steel

    Wishing:
    Baritone
    Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck

  3. #3
    And I have just realised how confusing this could be... I have no affiliation to Dingo.

  4. #4
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Geelong, Vic
    Posts
    5,290
    welcome DB07, this might get confusing if you call yourself DB, but what could possibly go wrong? haha
    it will add to the madness, enjoy the build

  5. #5
    So looking at starting to sand, any suggestions or indicators when the kit is properly sanded?

  6. #6
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    13,555
    Hi DB07, welcome to the forum.
    Best indicator if the body and neck are sanded enough are to run your finger tips over the entire surface, you can generally feel machine marks that haven't been sanded properly.
    After you pass that test rub a damp (water) clean rag over the whole body/neck and then machine marks or scratches should be more obvious to the eye.
    Start on 180 grit and move though to about 320 or 360 grit
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  7. #7
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    Aug 2013
    Location
    Geelong, Vic
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    5,290
    Quote Originally Posted by DB07 View Post
    So looking at starting to sand, any suggestions or indicators when the kit is properly sanded?
    When you are totally over it, then you are half way there, haha

  8. #8
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Aug 2015
    Location
    Caloundra West, Sunshine Coast Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by DB07 View Post
    So looking at starting to sand, any suggestions or indicators when the kit is properly sanded?
    When there is still a bit of timber left to work with haha.

    Seriously, probably best to take your time with coarse grits first to get rid of deep machine marks remembering to rub with the grain not across it, and this is especially important with end grain on the sides of the body as natural tendency is to rub across the grain and that can be done much later once all smooth.

    Also be aware that over vigorous sanding can introduce it's own scratches and marks too, particularly with coarse grits. Best to run your hand over the surface before you start with a different grit level so that you can actually feel the difference being made moving progressively to finer grades.

    Finally, be careful not to over sand as if it gets too shiny it may not readily take on the stain as you apply it. 320 on basswood bodies seems to be about as far as you should go and I would almost say no more than 240 on maple necks otherwise you will have dramas trying to get the stain colour to soak in.

    Once you get plenty of colour and top coats on you can smooth it off even further with 0000 steel wool or 1200, 1500 or 2000 wet & dry paper when sanded wet.

  9. #9
    Finally got around to sanding, and happy with the way it looks. Think it needs a little bit more, and then it is ready for the first stain.

    Getting pretty excited about it.

  10. #10
    Was going to start my first stain, but have a couple of questions.

    1. My GR-1SF has triple binding on it, I assume that this won't stain. Would I be correct in thinking that?

    2. I want to stain the neck the same colour as the body - Karijini Red. Am I going to have issues with the stain if I sand it down, with the recommended 1200 grit?

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