First Timer Build TLA-1R

[Bungee]

I received my kit in the mail, opened it... and my wife said "I thought you were building a guitar, this one is already made" - she expected a block of wood I had to carve

Anyhoo, thought I would start my build diary, looking forward to getting stuck into it, I will do a mock build this week, then start the sanding. On that note, can I use my random orbital sander or should I hand sand the body?

I am hoping that DB's butterscotch is ready soon, I want to use that colour.

Cheers

Ben

[andrewdosborne]

Nice one Ben. Looking forward to the diary. Too funny, you should tell your wife the block of wood comes after at least 10 kits lol

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk

[wokkaboy]

Hi Ben,
good luck with the first build. I use an orbital sander and sand from 180 grit (120 grit if there are deep machine marks) up to 240 or 320 grit. Then I go over and hand sand with a sanding block 320 and 400 grit is usually enough.
Be careful to keep the orbital sander flat, replace worn paper discs and keep it moving a steady speed and don't stay in one place too long

[Andy40]

I received my kit in the mail, opened it... and my wife said "I thought you were building a guitar, this one is already made" - she expected a block of wood I had to carve

Ha ha.... little do they know...very little

Looking forward to seeing how that butterscotch works out.

[Bungee]

Hi Ben,
good luck with the first build. I use an orbital sander and sand from 180 grit (120 grit if there are deep machine marks) up to 240 or 320 grit. Then I go over and hand sand with a sanding block 320 and 400 grit is usually enough.
Be careful to keep the orbital sander flat, replace worn paper discs and keep it moving a steady speed and don't stay in one place too long

Awesome, thanks for that. I wil get started on it today.

Ben

[Bungee]

Starting to do a mock build and the machine head holes are a little random. Up to 3mm difference.
Have most of you just gone with the slight offset in the holes or plugged and re-drilled?




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bungee]

Had to use the Dremel to get the guard to fit, and some of the holes are off. What's the best way to fill the holes that are off? They're under the pick guard and will need to be able to be re-drilled. Shall I mix sawdust with wood glue?



A small gap between the fretboard and the scratch plate. Is this normal or do I need to sand down the back of the neck so it is flush?



I think I will get a wilkinson bridge and make it a string through. Thinking about the tone rider vintage pickups too, anyone tried these?

I am going to replace the nut with bone too.

Really looking forward to building this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DrNomis_44]

One way to fill the holes that are off is to use some thin doweling that's about the same diameter as the hole, cut the dowel material a bit longer than the scratchplate screws and sharpen one end of the piece of doweling to a point, then put a little bit of PVA wood glue on it, then gently hammer it into the hole, then use a sharp stanley knife blade to trim it off flush with the body of the guitar, hope that helps.

[Bungee]

Thanks Dr. I will see what I can find.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[wokkaboy]

Hi Ben, the tuners don't look too bad, call it 2.1mm out with the measurements you took between holes. The main thing for me is that they are aligned is more obvious to the eye than distance between tuners. So are the pickguard holes pre-drilled and some don't align ? If this is the case drill new holes and the pre-drilled holes will be covered by the pickguard (hopefully !). Otherwise wood glue and sawdust of a similar colour or glue toothpicks or thin dowel in the holes as Doc explained.
The gap between pickguard and overhanging fingerboard is normal.
Check the distance nut to 12th fret and 12th fret to bridge saddles, they should be roughly the same (12th fret to low E saddle about 3mm more). Most tele kits I've built the bridge pup cavity is a bit far too south and I've had to route the neck side of the cavity by about 5mm and this will close up the gap between the bridge plate and pickguard. If you order from Realtone today by express post they should arrive xmas eve Thursday.
Upgrades sound great, so I'd order your Wilkinson bridge as soon as you can so you can check intonation and make sure bridge pup sits in the cavity nicely.
The Tonerider pups are great value for money I recommend them.
I thought the TL-1AR was alder body but it's ash, so think the model is TLA-1 with rosewood fingerboard. Some nice looking grain