Electric Double Bass Build

[ihasmario]

Hey guys,

So ages ago I was talking to DB about a harp. It's too hard right now for various reasons - cost, sourcing, me being inept.

So I'm going to go ahead and do something a little different for the time being when the time is right - an electric double bass. I'm going to make it to 3/4 scale length (around about 41.3 inches), and I'm going to immediately avoid the goal of building a body anything like an actual double bass.

What I am making the thread now in advance for is to ask two questions;
1) On electric guitar, I found that even on a well placed bridge I needed to adjust things later. Is this a problem for fretless instruments, or can I rest easy knowing that my bridge, once measured is "good enough" - and I only need to intonate between strings?

2) For people with cigar box experience, I'm contemplating making a big old box for this to sit on (I've seen people do it with suitcases, for example - just to fiddle with some acoustic sounds). Are there any recommendations people have for achieving this before I go down the giant rabbit hole of researching the best way to get massive chunks of wood? Lots of cheaper basses are actually made of plywood, so that's always an option I guess.

A drawing of what I expect to end up with is coming soon!

[ihasmario]

Alright, so we're underway with some changes already.

The first change is that I've actually decided to make an upright bass banjo. Firstly, it's cooler. Secondly, it's also much easier to do the body for.

Right now I've acquired parts, and a bass drum. Today I took the liberty of stripping the red bass drum and sanding the drum. I've also got a neck and other parts I need for the upright assembly.

Everything is in order so far, however I need some advice.

1) What is the best way to remove surface glue from a plywood(?) shell like this one?

2) What is a good black grain filler for this kind of thing (the shell) to clean up some chips and dings on the wood?

3) One of the screws attaching the shell's hardware (still attached) is badly stripped and I am unable to remove it. It is "off" the surface of the wood. I have tried tape and pliers to no avail. How can I remove this screw without buying a rotary tool? Super glue?

4) Some of the chrome drum hardware is rusted due to age, how can I clean it up? Steel wool?

5) I have chrome drum hardware, that I would like to make look gold without having to buy new hardware. What is a good way to change the appearance of the hardware?

6) What's the best way to plug some of the holes I don't need? (i.e. the leg stand holes from the original drum)

I put a picture of the neck next to the shell in the photo, however the final product will have a much longer scale length. There will be a big chunk of wood "boosting" the neck further away from the shell.

It will be equivalent to a 3/4 upright bass at the end, with the exception that it will be an electric banjo using a bass drum for the "BODY".

Thanks mates!

[Brendan]

Couple of ideas -
Can you cut the screw off with a hacksaw and pull it through the other side? Alternatively - where are you based - I've got the tool and the right attachments (I think).
Black grain filler - I'd go ebony timbermate.
Filling the holes - maybe some dowel - looks like you have a dog's breakfast in terms of sizes, so it may take some time...

[ihasmario]

Couple of ideas -
Can you cut the screw off with a hacksaw and pull it through the other side? Alternatively - where are you based - I've got the tool and the right attachments (I think).
Black grain filler - I'd go ebony timbermate.
Filling the holes - maybe some dowel - looks like you have a dog's breakfast in terms of sizes, so it may take some time...

I'm in Perth. I've tried just about everything with the screw. I don't have anything that can cut it. I can't get underneath the head of the screw with a saw because of the size of the drum (and types of saws I have).

I went and bought some ebony timbermate thanks

Yeah dowel looks like a good idea. I'm going to try minimise it by having the ended parts (like heel of a guitar I guess) over the larger holes ...

[Brendan]

What end of Perth? I'm north - Greenwood.

[ihasmario]

What end of Perth? I'm north - Greenwood.

Down in Armadale Here's some snaps of the screw.

I tried a few ways getting it out, including pliers. As you can see the pliers tore it up even more - the whole screw is bunk, but there's a little bit of clearance. I dunno if there's an easy way to pull it because of the washer and the curve of the shell...

Thanks

[Brendan]

Couple of ideas - drill it out like you would a pop rivet - looks like you only need to knock the head off and it should be good - you've got a good centrepunch to start with .
Other than that - small file - you'll be there all night, but once you get the head off, it should come out.

[ihasmario]

How do I determine the correct drill size? Do I just want to use the same size as the threaded portion of the screws and then just drill down until I'm past the head so I can break it off?

[wokkaboy]

Hi Chris can you get a hacksaw in between the washer and the screw head ? If so hacksaw the head off, then hopefully there is enough exposed screw shaft to remove it. If you have a pair of this style multi grips (pictured) you can get alot of pressure on the screw head and would have the best chance of removing the screw.
Otherwise grab an old drill bit about the same size as the screw shaft and try and drill it out

[ihasmario]

Hey guys,

I tried some timbermate tonight out of excitement. It's my first time using the stuff, so it might have been a bit too runny the first time through, and the curved surface doesn't help. I've sanded it back. I took 180 grit to the drum after letting it dry for a while.

If my goal is to darken the grain, and not the overall drum by too much, have I sanded back far enough, or should I keep sanding?

Has anyone here done a build guide with grain filling/popping with timbermate that they can show me?

Cheers.