Hello again people,
Is it hard to change the binding on an LP-1 ?
How to get the original off,
What glue to use to attach the new one,
Pull it off before or after painting,
Put the new one on before or after painting,
Is it hard to change it on the fret board as well?
And would it look weird on the headstock?
Oh, and thanks for all the advice, it's great for a newbie like me.
Cheers,
Neil
hey Neil, I've never removed existing binding but I'd guess you use a heat gun should soften the plastic/glue or steam from an iron.
I'd definitely put the new binding on before putting paint on as you will probably have to sand it to get it flush with the top and sides of the body.
Fret board I presume would be a similar procedure.
DB or Gavmeister has probably done this before so can probably give you more information.
Good luck.
Whats the plan different colour or pattern binding ?
I've used Tarzan grip glue and get some good quality tape to hold the binding in place when the glue dries
Last edited by wokkaboy; 14-10-2015 at 04:20 PM.
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JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
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Different colour, to match other fittings and maybe some inlay.
sounds good Neil, the main thing is don't put too much heat to the binding or it may melt and be a pain to clean up.
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Not if you have the proper equipment, namely a router and appropriate sized straight edge router bit and bearings. Otherwise you are going to have to try heating the glue to get it off as Wokka has suggested.Originally Posted by Crusader
As above!
Tarzan Grip is best. Plus you need some adhesive tape. You need to 'stretch' the tape across the newly positioned binding as you work. This keeps it in place. Let it dry for three days before removing the tape. You MUST pull the edge of the tape 'back on itself' so that you dont rip the fibres of the body...
ABSOLUTELY has to be done BEFORE.....
....must be before....
Not if you have the right tools, if not, be patient, dont rush, may be a bit more clean up to do on the guitar.
Not if you do it properly!
Last edited by Gavin1393; 14-10-2015 at 06:54 PM.
Gavmeister
Excellent, thanks for the advice. I think I may try it.
Personally, I always rout the old stuff off as this also removes the layer of glue as well.
I have found with using a heat gun you can end up with an uneven channel due to old goop being left behind.
Heat also changes the glue and can make it resistant to the glue used with the new binding.
(Having said that, I don't know if this holds true with Tarzans grip cause I don't use it)
If you do use a heat gun, it might pay to sand the channel to remove the residue. Just take care and use self adhesive paper on a square block so you maintain the 90 degree.
The ther only other comment I have is to use a high tack paper tape, such as the binding tape sold by Stewmac and a few other Luthiers supply shops.
I have found this to be the most effective because it is strong and wont continue to stretch, which can leave gaps between the binding and body.
If you do get gaps (happens to us all at some stage), melt some binding in acetone (assuming you use ABS plastic binding) and use the melted goop as a bog to fill these gaps.
When done, you simply scrape the whole thing flat.
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated.
I'll try some test pieces.
Yes I will use abs.
Kewl.
With the Gavmiesters advice and the few useful tips I threw into the mix you cant go wrong
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
So I work for Gibson guitars in the acoustic factory and for the first part of my shift I do the slotting for binding... when we have rebinds we use the straight edge and bearings like Gav said to cut off the old binding. As he said it strips the old glue but also helps straighten the edge to allow for an easier time with actual binding... the more tape when binding then less chance for gaps as long as you get it really snug against the body... with the tape if you squirt a bit of acetone and quickly wipe it off the top the tape pulls up pretty quick and easy... the binding will be higher than the body and it does burn pretty easily when sanding it down... scrape it down even before sanding... stewmac sells binding scrapers!!! Very handy!!! If you do end up with some gaps super glue and sand it... I'll try to take some video of the process for you
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