Early stages in my IB6S build. I've used wudtone for the first time, and I'm delighted with the "honey" finish on the spalted maple front. The "dark tease" on the back and sides is still being a bit of a tease, but I'll try a couple more coats and see how it goes. I've been asked to finish it in satin, but I really think it will look great in high gloss, on the front at least.
Last edited by Dave Easter; 31-08-2015 at 04:55 AM. Reason: Personalise title
I decided to do the neck in polyurethane varnish, as I've used it before. It gives high gloss and has a nice feel ( well to a beginning player like me anyway!) With the double skunk stripe it looks great, even with no added colour or stain.
Update
The wudtone is all done now, and the front looks gorgeous. The back is still a bit disappointing, but it's all about learning. Assembled, it all looks quite good, but I would do it differently next time. I suppose I could sand it all off the back and do it again. It's not that bad but I think it could be better. Still, who looks at the back anyway........
Last edited by Dave Easter; 05-09-2015 at 05:10 AM.
I've got the basic assembly work done now, the neck is screwed in place, the bridge is on, along with the tuners and all the little screws are piloted and screwed in. Next job is soldering but I'm a bit confused with the wiring. The kit came with 5pots, and no switch. Does that mean I should wire it with 4pots and no switch, or does one pot act as a cross fader between the two pickups? If that's the case I need to find a wiring diagram to do that, but I haven't found one yet. Also, one pickup has a red wire, the other is blue. Which one goes to the bridge, and which to the neck? Does it matter?
Aha! Just found a great selection of wiring diagrams on a thread " help with bass wiring" I didn't understand a word of the technical stuff, but I recon I can follow the simplest diagram there! Wicked! Cheers guys!
The diagrams in that forum thread use some capacitor values that aren't standard with the IB-6 kits, so just be aware of that. I think the stock kit caps are all 0.068uF (683 on the cap), although I don't have that kit to check, so you would need to get some other caps to use those diagrams.
If you want a diagram using only the stock kit parts I can draw one up for you, or some other specific layout if you want.
Regarding which pickup is which, the colours can vary depending on the kit and batch from the factory. Typically, when you compare them, the neck pickup will have the longer wire as it usually has a longer run to reach the control cavity. For pickups that don't have other distinguishing features, wire length is usually the easiest way to tell. If the wires are the same length, then the pups probably the same and interchangable or you'll need a multimeter to test further.
Edit: Remember you need a ground wire under the bridge plate that runs to the control cavity, there should be a hole under the bridge for it. If you haven't got that wire in place already remove the bridge now put the ground wire in before going any further.
Last edited by WeirdBits; 05-09-2015 at 02:31 PM.
Scott.
Dave - just saw that you're having issues with the 6s diagram - will have a look at it and get an update up soon.
Brendan
Edit - have sent Adam an email with an updates diagram - 2 tone 3 volume. Watch this space...
Brendan
Last edited by Brendan; 06-09-2015 at 08:02 PM.
Here you go Dave, this should work. It's Brendan's updated diagram.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...PBG-2H3v2t.pdf
Cheers,
Adam
adamboyle(at)pitbullguitars.com
Wow! That's absolutely brilliant guys! Thanks for your help!
I thought I had the assembly sorted, but I have discovered a little problem at the neck joint. I noticed a small gap when it was all bolted up, and tightening the two lower screws seemed to make it worse. I took it apart again and found they the back surface of the neck was very slightly domed, so that it was able to "rock" at the joint. I attacked the high spot with some 80 grit and soon had it nice and flat, and I need to play with it a bit more to ensure the neck angle is just right. While working on the joint, I had another thought. Where the neck and body meet there is a flat section of the neck exposed, and I think it would look much better if the neck profile runs down a bit further, and is then blended into the body. This should be a simple job, I'll just need to varnish the bottom of the neck again when Ive done. My only worry is that this might take some strength away at a critical point, as with six massive strings, (that look like they were borrowed from a suspension bridge) the neck will need to be very strong! I'm also thinking of glueing the neck joint, as well as screwing it, for the same reason. Belt AND braces!
I've now got the neck nicely shaped where it meets the body, with a couple of hours work with a chisel and lots of sanding. Worth the effort, I think it looks much better now.
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