Arzi's MMB-4 from vision to finish...

[Arzi]

Hi

Cause I have time to plan my project (kit supposed to arrive in 8 weeks time) I thought I'd share my vision and ambitious plan with you all. Ambitious because it contains stuff I've not done before and I need advise on how to do different stages of the build. I'll call this one the "Medic Man" for the colors and my occupation.

I'm aiming for something like this:



With a binding like on Reflex series:



Also classic headstock shape:



With possibly a binding like this but starting from other side of the nut:



Color on the top would be basic red water based stain from Bolger's and the back dark shade of brown something like this:



Binding and scratchplate would be pearl white, headstock most likely red on the top. Neck natural maple.

Instead of one I'd put another same kind of humbucker on it

Active electronics 2 band from Artec (SE-2A) with three pots - one being concentric for treble/bass, one volume and one blend.

Battery compartment in the back of the body

Neck will be maple fretboard (that's why it takes longer to arrive)

Now - I've never done binding. I don't have a router to use so any tips with affordable tools and ways to do it will be much appreciated. I have some ideas on it and I'll share them when I know how to explain them better for example with pics. I've ordered pearl white binding strips 1650mm long, 1,5mm thick and 2mm & 6mm wide. Idea was to place the binding so that it would place under the already rounded edge of the top leaving a bit "fatter" look on the top. Mainly going on the straight part of the edge and rounded to follow the curved edge. The 2mm binding was intended for the headstock.

For "routing" as I've told I don't have a router but I have a battery operated drill with a pile of bits, chisels, files, a Dremel with about 250 pcs different types of bits and a bunch of other basic tools at hand. I will be doing this the hard way but as I said if you have good tips on how to cope with these and avoid major mistakes I'd be most grateful. I have a pair of pretty steady hands and quite a lot of patience to put on this build.

Also dialog on pros and cons of this plan would be helpful.

I haven't decided on the finish yet, but I don't have facilities to use any spray laquer or stuff that would be hazardous to breathe so tips on this too or I have to take on TO again (DB scared me with talk about glass and lifting the fretboard). Oh and tips on what to use on the maple fretboard to keep it as light colored as possible.

Thanks in advance. Can't wait to get my hands on the new project...

Arzi

[Fretworn]

I can imagine that binding a body with the elbow contour will be quite difficult, especially without the proper equipment. I can't quite visualise what you mean when you say

place the binding so that it would place under the already rounded edge of the top leaving a bit "fatter" look on the top.

Do you mean the binding will be "in" the sides rather than on the top of the sides (like this)
(it's an exaggerated example but I know)

It's a big dream, but you have the attention to detail to get see things through.

[crundes]

Hey Arzi, you've come up with a great concept, I'm sure it will look amazing!

I had my first go at binding recently and am very happy with how it turned out. Seeing as you already have a dremel you could do what I did and get a stewmac dremel bit such as this one.
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...r_Binding.html

This would probably work best with a plunge router attachment, which can be bought for around $50

Another good option is this little bit from siminoff mandolin parts. You just need a regular dremel routing bit and this attachment to guide the bit to the correct depth and width.
http://parts.siminoff.net/binding-ro...mel-tools.aspx

Feel free to check out my build diary to see the results/ mishaps along the way :-)
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3990

[crundes]

Whoops that siminoff link doesn't work. Try this one.
http://parts.siminoff.net/binding-ro...mel-tools.aspx

[crundes]

The only problem with these tools is that they cut a uniform depth and width. It sounds like you're wanting to mix it up a bit with your binding sizes, which may be more difficult to achieve. I'm sure someone here will have a way around it though!

[crundes]

Bugger.. Stewmac link doesn't work either try this one. Or search for the piloted router bit on the stewmac website
http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...r_Binding.html

[Arzi]

Hi Fretworn

Not like that but binding being just a bit lower on the sides so that the top would stand a couple of mm above the top edge of the binding. Rounding the binding edge to curve with the top's edges.

I'll try to draw a few pics to explain - easier than explaining with my limited vocabulay...

[Arzi]

Hey Crundes

That siminoff tool is interesting. You can adjust the hight of the binding by moving the router tip up-down but how deep it cuts depends on the width of the router bit.

How deep is the cut with some common dremel tips? If I use 1,5mm thick strip - how close is the achieved depth in your experience?

Edit - the siminoff page answered my question here. I seem to have a poor understanding of written words before my morning coffee...

[Arzi]

Is there any place other than Stewmac where they'd sell piloted routing bits for Dremel? I couldn't find these on Dremel pages - at least straight tips.

I had a test run with some other than routing tips and as for example the sanding bits/diamond tips can make a route also - the result is cleaner than with a router. If I just had a way to make a piloted tip sanding bit for dremel - would do the job and would not grind too deep if slipped accidentally.

[Arzi]

Any experience on this anyone?

http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...ref_currency=E

Seems to have more adjustment than siminoff - that way more chance to screw up the work too...