The YB4 Build

[ozzbike]

I have ordered and will await the birth via Australia Post of the YB-4 kit. I like the idea and shape of the headstock, the body with both precision bass and jazz base pick-ups.

This will be my third bass build, first from Pit Bull, and I am looking to better my finish abilities with this one.

I have ordered a set of water based dyes from another supplier, along with some dedicated sanding sealer. I have a heap of sandpaper from the other two and I am tossing up about a finish. The other two have been finished in Tru-OIL, but this time I am thinking time to maybe try something different. I have both water based and oil based wipe-on poly from Minwax. I have both gloss and satin finishes.

I have been thinking about trying a burst on the body and then either a natural or classic (amber etc)colour on the neck. Then finishing the lot with a couple of coats of the gloss poly on the body and headstock...and the satin poly on the back of the neck.

Query, is the water based poly or the oil based poly a better finishing option for a guitar?

[ozzbike]

Ok, the order is listed as shipped....the dye and sanding sealer is also on its way. (I have ordered the full seven colour dye kit and a bottle of sanding sealer from U-Beat.)

I am lost here.....the art of prepping the body of the guitr has so many directions. I have made two basses previous to this and have sanded, stained finished with TRU-OIL. The first one...not so well....learnt things....the second is nearly done....and looks lots better.

From reading other builds, and other threads on here and the NET I have come down to this.....please advise if I should change anything:-

The body is again BASSWOOD....all three have been this.

1. Sand through the ranges from 120 to around the 300 grit sandpaper.

2. Make a mix...slurry....runny paste....of timber filler. Apply to body and rub in and then let dry.

3. Sand this with a higher grit paper....have 400...so that is cool.

4. Wet down the surface (may be redundant as the above step will wet it)....then apply ONE coat of sanding sealer.

5. Let dry and then sand through to 600 grit sandpaper ONCE and ONCE only.

6. Apply stain.....at this point I will have to make a choice on colour scheme. The young fellow here....13..wants a dragon burst....big ask for a learner. I was thinking of just plain Bright RED.

Maybe more than one coat of stain to achieve desired colour.

7. Let dry at least 24 hours.

8. This time I would like to not use TRU-OIL....not because I don't like it....want to dry a different finish.

9. I have both oil and waterbased wipe-on poly in high gloss and satin from MINWAX. The wipe-on poly if I use water-based may activate the stain again and give me an undesired result. The oil based would just go straight over.

10. The water based gives me more options....but the dye thing bothers me....have seen it suggested that I apply one coat of the sanding sealer (weak shellac) and let it completly dry. This will act as a barrier coat and then I can apply the water-based poly.

11. Coats x 3 at least. With sand in between. (The poly itself says 240 grit???? I am thinking something more towards 1000 mark myself.)

12. After last coat leave for at least 2 days and then wet sand 600,800,1200,2000.

13. Auto cut compound cream, auto polish, auto scratch remover, cleaner wax, pure carnauba wax x 4 coats.

14. DOOOOOONE. Just add string, neck and solder.

All to be done again by hand....no random orbital sanders etc here. I like the rag staining, rub on finishes....not so keen on brushes.

Any advice will be accepted.

Greg

[wokkaboy]

sounds like you have a solid plan Greg. I've not used mini wax poly wipe on so not sure whether to use water or oil based. Generally stains/dyes you won't need to sand finer than about 320 grit, you want the surface to have some tooth for the stain to hold onto. I use fine 0000 grade steel wool to buff the body between stain coats. If you live in a cool area I'd recommend 48 hours between stain and clear coats.
Hopefully your box arrives in the post soon and you can post pics of it !
Best of luck

[Brendan]

Ditto the Wokkstar. Don't go too high in the grits pre staining - you can end up polishing the body and it won't take any stain at all.

Only things I'd add would be:
Step 0.1 - Start a build diary and take lots of photos... We all love living vicariously through others builds, plus it gives you quick(ish) access to people with buckets of experience.
Step 0.2 - Dry build to make sure all the parts are there and they all fit together nicely - nothing worse than having everything schmick only to find it doesn't quite fit together.
Step 0.3 - Run a damp cloth over the body & neck - look for anything that comes up differently (like a spot). There may be some hidden glue in places you don't expect. Easy to get rid of at this stage with a wire brush (the green warehouse has a set of wire and plastic brushes slightly larger than toothbrushes for about $3). Once you've wire brushed any glue out, then you can sand down the body.

Step 1.5 Once you've sanded it all down and are happy with it, grab your trusty cloth and dampen it and run it against the grain over the whole body again - it will all go slightly fuzzy - give it a chance to dry and knock the fuzziness off and it should be ready to go.

In terms of letting things cure - seems that the longer you let your gloss layers cure between coats, the glossier they get.

My 2c.

[ozzbike]

Okay,

Have done a few shifts and have six days off now. The aussies post site says the kit has made it to Queensland....hopefully to get to me on Monday.

Went to the big green shed and got the little pack of brushes....great stuff....thanks for that guys.

Whilst I was there I grabbed an AEG 300w 125mm variable speed random orbital sander for $119-00....six year warranty. Nice. Grabbed some velcro paper for the sander....only goes up to 240 though. Hmmmm....may have to re-assess my plan above

I have read the Minwax wipe-on poly stuff again and it recommends 240grit between coats???

U-Beaut wants 400 or finer before dye??? Still lost here.

My thoughts:-

1. Do the mock build....do the damp down and inspection....do the toothbrush wire brush glue inspection.

2. Damp against the grain and let dry. Do 120 grit with the sander.

3. Pore fill the Basswood body and let dry.

4. Sand with 180 grit and wipe off.

5. Apply one coat of Sanding Sealer and let dry. Sand to 240 grit and clean off.

6. Damp down the surface...check for fuzzies....if none...them proceed. Apply the dye after having done some trials to get the concentration I want. (Really thinking about doing a dragon-burst....3rd build....may get it to look better this time....still nervy though.) Most likely use one pot of green dye, one of blue....a rag for each colour and a clean rag to blend in between each colour to feather the edge.

7. Let dry and check what I see.

8. If all good then sand to 400 or even 600 and then clean up then ONE coat only of the sanding sealer to act as a barrier coat.

9. Apply wipe-on poly (water Based) gloss on body.....and front of headstock....and satin on back of headstock and neck. Let dry and 240 grit and then total of three coats. (Still concerned about 240 between each coat....most likely will do by hand gently.)

Now we have all the bits here ready to go....just need the kit. sighhhh.

[ozzbike]

The kit has arrived. Gotta love Aussie Post.

[img]Box01.jpg[/img]

This is very different from the other PJ basses I have made.....like the headstock....all one piece too....my other two are multi-part.

The trial fit goes well.

[img]firstfit01.jpg[/img]

One thing of note.....I will have to find out where to to put the bridge on this one. The other two I have built had pre-drilled holes for everything.

Neckpocket is not too bad...some fluff and sticking up bits of wood in the bottom that will need a quick gouge or sand.

[img]neckpocket02.jpg[/img]

I have noted a couple of machine marks here and there....and a black dirt mark on the side. But so far no other marks....and no chunks missing. Gotta love that.

AEG sanding time here we come.

[ozzbike]

Forgot a shot of the headstock.

[Brendan]

Looking great Greg - gotta love that feeling when you crack the box and get everything out for the first time.

[ozzbike]

I have to say that the random orbital sander is the best invention yet. Today I have sanded to 120....made up a slurry of wodd filler and slopped it all over the body....not the neck.

I let it dry for the recommended time plus 1 hour...just in case.

I then sanded it with the AEG with 180grit sandpaper. I still had to do the sides and the curly bits by hand. Wow...does that wood filler hang on. I would be sanding for days if I had to do a pore filled body by hand.

Both the neck and the body are hanging now. They have both been sanded to 180 and then hit with a coat of sanding sealer. They will both be sanded to 240 this afternoon.

Note to self....whole body pore fill....tape or cover all holes and cavities....that stuff gets in everywhere.

Also...whilst sanding I discovered that I do in fact have a two piece neck and headstock.

[wokkaboy]

looks good Greg, seems you are taking the right steps, be careful with the orbital sander near any curved parts or sides. I tend to sand as much of the sides/curves with the orbital then move to hand sanding, and the cutaways you will have to sand by hand.
Don't rush the build, I know you have waited a while for the kit but too many mistakes happen when you rush or don't wait long enough for finishes to cure. Keep up the build diary