RC4 build

[mredsharp]

Hi all, this will be my second build, hopefully I'll get the finish right this time. I built an LP at the start of the year, tried for a trans black finished but stuffed it up and ended up painting over it. (More here: http://www.pitbullguitars.com/commun...ewtopic&t=1295)

This build Im gonna aim for a burst finish like this:


Ive had a bit of a play around with some Dr Beaut wood dyes on some spare wood (I bought this a while ago, I assume its much the same as wudtone stuff everyone uses on here??), I'll have my colours sorted out soon. What Im not sure about is the correct process of going about things.

Please let me know where this process needs correcting:

• Sand face to a 400grit finish
  Rub some dye out over centre area (in this case, a few coats of yellow)
  Rub dye in from the sides for the burst colour (red-brown boarder)
  Clear coat with acrylic rattle can stuff (1 light coat, light sand then a couple decent coats??)
  Buff???

Should I sand in between the dye coats at all? Do I need to buff when Im done? Is the acrylic clear the way to go or should I use...???

Basically, I want this looking good but I dont need it to be a mirror finish epic job. After I got the basics of a dye finish down, Im gonna have a full on go at another maple top LP.

Thanks in advance for your help guys! I cant wait to get playing!!

[wokkaboy]

Hey Mr Ed, I like you stain plans, generally using wudtone stains there's no need to sand finer than about 240 grit. The stain needs some tooth to grab onto. If you sand it too fine the stain won't soak into the timber as well.
Bursting is a technique that takes practice, so I'd recommend practicing on a scrap piece of wood. I generally stain darker and lighter colour in the same session, make sure you have a separate rag for each colour and a blending rag.
Generally give the body a light rub with fine steel wool between stain coats.
I wouldn't recommend an acrylic clear over the stain (I've not tried this so not sure how it will turn out, it may well work but I'd try it on scrap wood first), you would be better off getting some wudtone top coats to rag over if you aren't looking for a high gloss finish, although it is still possible using wudtone.

[gavinturner]

Hey Mr Ed! Great plan - she's gonna looks awesome. I agree with everything Wokka said. I can confirm that for Colortone dyes at least, both acrylic clear and Wudtone clear coats will work without any adverse reactions etc. Unfortunately haven't used Dr Beaut, but Colortone can be used in water or alchohol, so may well be similar.

cheers,
Gav.

[mredsharp]

Well the week build was clearly optimistic, Ive barely done anything yet.

Doing a bit of a mock build at the moment, and seeing as theres no bolt holes for the bridge I have to place it myself. I'll run a couple string lines to get the placement centred, but Im not certain on the scale length of it.

Google tells me a Rickenbacker is 33.25", I assume thats what this should be, but I dont know how to work out fret spacing to double check.

[WeirdBits]

Measure from the fretboard side edge of the nut to the crown of the twelfth fret along the centreline of the fretboard (that's half scale), then double it and you've got your scale length. *It's important to measure it on each kit before placing a bridge as there can be some variation. *DB did a mini-guide to bridge placement here, it's for a P-bass so the measurements are different but the basics are the same.

If you are at all uncertain about the bridge position it's best to get your exact scale measurements and post them here, then everyone can help to double-check and ensure everything goes exactly where it should.

[mredsharp]

Cheers, I measured to the 12th fret and its spot on 430mm, which puts the bridge 860mm (33.85"), slightly longer than I thought.

To get the position of the bridge Ive drawn a pencil line at 860mm, then drawn an intersection line from both sides of the neck using a straight board, from there I can work out the centre.

The bridge that came with my kit has its bolt holes in line with the bridge. Theyre 94mm apart, so I measured out and marked where theyd go.

After doing all of this I realised I dont know much about set neck kits and Im not sure if the neck should be pulled out away from the body, or pushed in. This obviously makes a massive difference so I need to learn about that first. Really I should set the neck permenantly before marking these positions out, which means I'd do all the finishing first.

Do people set the neck before finishing on a set neck kit?

[gavinturner]

You can do the measurements now to place the bridge without setting the neck. The important thing is to get the pickup/pickguard in there to make sure everything fits at the same time. On an LP for example you would just put the neck pickup in and push the neck as far down as it can go against the pickup.

Not knowing the hardware in your kit it's a little hard to give you an exact instruction, but basically get the pickup and scratchplate in place, push the neck in as far in as it will go, and then clamp it. From there you can make your neck measurements, seat (clamp/hold) the bridge and then get the E and G strings on the bridge and laying up the neck (with the clamp still on). The idea is to check the bridge/neck/strings are all straight and that the strings are straight, travelling correctly up the fretboard, and the correct distance from each side of the neck.

Hope this helps.

cheers,
Gav.

[lawry]

/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from gavinturner on June 9, 2014, 13:07
Hey Mr Ed! Great plan - she's gonna looks awesome. I agree with everything Wokka said. I can confirm that for Colortone dyes at least, both acrylic clear and Wudtone clear coats will work without any adverse reactions etc. Unfortunately haven't used Dr Beaut, but Colortone can be used in water or alchohol, so may well be similar.

cheers,
Gav.

What Gav says is correct. He does all his builds with alcohol. Sometimes in the colour

Anyway, she'll look great with a burst like that. Classic Ricky.

[stan]

you've got some good advice there mate, looking forward to this coming together

[mredsharp]

Lol, well I didnt realise its been a year....so much for the week build!

Anyways, thought Id update the thread. Ive set the neck and got the colour to the point Im pretty happy with. Bought another bridge because I wanted one a bit chuckier than the kit one. The finish is not finished by any means, but the colour is getting there. I have to go over the middle yellow area a bit more after some water got spilled on it, Im gonna bring the dark border at the bottom up a little higher, fix up the bloody glue spots (somehow), clean up the binding and clear coat it. Then decide if I want a custom cover plate or not (probably will because custom and Im not 100% sold on the white, or the shape as it sits)

Pics as it is now:



And with the hardware sitting in it (not positioned properly though):



Still a little way to go, but Im pretty happy so far.

I spent AGES stuffing about trying to fix the glue spots. Sanded it right back, tried the brass brush method a dozen times, etc... it worked a tiny bit but not enough. Next plan is to finish it as is but then go over the bad spots with some of this stuff: http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=628

Any other tips on sorting the glue spots?