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Thread: Dans TL1-A

  1. #1

    My first build, enjoying it immensely so far but I'm not the handiest with any kind of tool so....

    So far I've finished the body in a pale butterscotch/blonde with wudtone, satin top coat.
    A little more blonde than I intended, mixed too much white in with the butterscotch but I'm learning to love it anyway!!
    Neck finished in vintage amber.

    I saw Bass Guy's TL1-A diary after I'd started finishing the body, I hadn't even considered the possibility of needing to rout the bridge pickup cavity...

    Since taking the below pic, I looked at the instructions for fitting the bridge in the "how to build" forum.
    So winding the saddles fully forward as instructed I get the following measurements:-

    Nut to 12th fret - 323mm
    12th fret to low E saddle - 325mm
    12th fret to high E saddle - 323mm

    Would I be right in thinking these measurements are ok, given the instructions in the "how to" forum?

    Or do I need to route? The gap between bridge and scratchplate looks about the same as on factory teles I've looked at. So there wouldnt seem to be much room to move the bridge forward anyway.

    I'd be very grateful for any advice.

    Also, I've managed to take a chip out of the lower heel on the body,see pic, how would forum members go about repairing this?



  2. #2
    GAStronomist stan's Avatar
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    from my readings the saddle positions seem fine.

    for the chip, one way would be:
    keep any wood sanded off the body
    fill the gap using a mixture of the sanded wood, some glue and a dab of wudtone you used to colour it with, make a few little batches to get one that matches

  3. #3
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    If you can't find any sandings from the body, hit one of the pickup or your control cavities to get some from there. I'd also look at shielding for the cavities, unless you want to be able to tune your guitar like an FM reciever .

  4. #4
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    /<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Brendan on June 1, 2014, 18:36
    I'd also look at shielding for the cavities, unless you want to be able to tune your guitar like an FM reciever .
    LOL. That was pretty good, Brendan. I may have to plagiarise it!

  5. #5
    /<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Brendan on June 1, 2014, 18:36
    If you can't find any sandings from the body, hit one of the pickup or your control cavities to get some from there. I'd also look at shielding for the cavities, unless you want to be able to tune your guitar like an FM reciever .
    Thanks for the replies


    What kind of glue? Just a standard wood adhesive?

    Was planning to shield the cavities and bought the shielding kit with the guitar...

    Looked at it yesterday and couldn't figure out how to redo the holes for the wires to run through, the "how to build" section on shielding doesnt seem to cover this. My concerns are:-
    1. How to physically create the connecting holes
    2. How to ensure I don't make an ineffective shield by doing a poor job of it (!)

    Sorry if I should be posting this in the general support section, I will repost there if necessary.

    Cheers

    Dan

  6. #6
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    Titebond is the glue of choice, available from Masters or Carbatech.

    I'm perhaps still half asleep, so I'm missing what you want to do with the connecting holes?

    These should already be predrilled. As you apply the shielding, mark where the holes are and puncture the shielding with a drill bit.
    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1258&dateline=1443806  448Gavmeister

  7. #7
    /<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from Gavin1393 on June 2, 2014, 08:16



    These should already be predrilled. As you apply the shielding, mark where the holes are and puncture the shielding with a drill bit.

    Thanks Gavin, I had a feeling it might be as simple as that but wanted to be sure

  8. #8
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Dan - quick way to check the shielding is done right - grab your multi meter and check that there's electrical connectivity across a couple of points across the channel. My simple approach is to get a scalpel and poke an "X" where the hole is. Finding the hole is easy as well - once you're done, push down with your finger near where the hole is and it'll pop up as the copper will stretch just a tiny bit and create a nice little dent where the hole is.

    As for glue - go Titebond - some will say that PVA will do it - that said, there was someone on the forum a couple of months ago who used Aquadhere and a couple of days after stringing up his guitar noticed the neck was parting ways with the body. I've seen the Gavmeister trying to separate 2 pieces of wood that were titebonded together and the wood tore, not the glue. That neck won't go anywhere once it's Titebonded in .

  9. #9
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Another thing with the shielding - overlap the edges of any of your cavities by 1-2mm that way when you put the shielded cover over the top, it should all join and make a nice little farraday's cage.

    If you want to get super precious, keep the multimeter handy - once it's all wired up and strung up, you should have connectivity between the control cavity and the bridge.

    All that said, don't stress - the copper stuff from the PitBull guys is pretty hard to get wrong.

    Word of caution though - the cut edges of the tape are sharp - almost surgically so - have had a situation where I noticed a little claret on one of my guitars as I was shielding. Hadn't noticed that I'd nicked myself with the tape just enough to draw blood.

  10. #10
    Overlord of Music gavinturner's Avatar
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    hi Dan,

    a quick note about the bridge position. If you are at all in doubt, use the stewmac fret position calculator to double check it's position relative to the neck:

    http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Fret...-fretcalc.html.

    It will give you the exact position of the mounting screws relative to the measured scale-length of the neck. I always use it to double check and it has never failed me yet.

    cheers,
    Gav.
    --
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