Hi all,
Just noticed the scratchplate of my TL1-A kit doesn't have the 2 holes for adjusting the neck pup.
Is this normal?
Any pitfalls I should be aware of when drilling/countersinking plastic?
Cheers,
Dan
Hi all,
Just noticed the scratchplate of my TL1-A kit doesn't have the 2 holes for adjusting the neck pup.
Is this normal?
Any pitfalls I should be aware of when drilling/countersinking plastic?
Cheers,
Dan
It is normal. You have the option to either use the pick guard as it is or to put the holes in.
Have a look at these three guitars put together by our forum members.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/?page_...iewtopic&t=770
Gavmeister
Hi Dan,/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from danluland@dodo.com.au on April 2, 2014, 11:33
Hi all,
Just noticed the scratchplate of my TL1-A kit doesn't have the 2 holes for adjusting the neck pup.
Is this normal?
Any pitfalls I should be aware of when drilling/countersinking plastic?
Cheers,
Dan
My TL-1A kit was the same. I had to decide whether to drill the scratchplate adjusting holes or leave it blank. I opted for the blank look. I really liked the clean lines of it that way.
The BIG proviso is that adjusting the pickup height is a bit of a pain to do as you have to remove the scratchplate to adjust the pickup height. Fortunately you only have to do this once (or twice, if you are a bit anal like me) so its no big deal really. The secret is to make sure that the pickup adjustment screws DO NOT bind on the pickup base plate when screwing in the adjustment screws. I drilled out the holes in the pickup to make sure that it "floats" on the adjustment springs.
My kit had the 22 fret neck so there is a fair bit of an overhang of the fretboard over the scratchplate. To install or remove the scratch plate you have to push down on the pickup and maneuver the scratchplate until you can get clearance. A real pain to do it the first time, but after you've done it a few times its no real issue.
I hope my explanation is not too confusing mate,
cheers
rob
EDIT: D'oh, ninja'd by Gav. (Yeah - Sorry Rob! Gav!)
Thanks guys, really helpful info. I think I'll keep it as it is - prefer the look.
Re: drilling holes in the pickguards, the drill bit will rip through it really easy. When I countersink in pickguard material I use a hand drill and drill backwards. If I forget I end up with a much too big hole before I know it.
Original Teles had the neck pickup mounted into the body of the guitar with no exposed pickup screws. Only later on did they mount the pickup in the pickguard to aloow easy adjustment.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
my TL-1A came with pre-drilled holes in the pickguard for the neck pup, but it doesn't worry me I'm putting a humbucker in and ditching the pickguard - does that get me a get out of the naughty room card DB ?
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in